'04 C4S 6MT

I looked at previous thread regarding this but could not find a good explanation.

If you've seen the other thread i had recently replaced my thermo stat to a 160F and a new water pump.
I purge the system with shop air at 10PSI to rid of the original 6 gallon in the system.
Unfortunately i think i have a leak on my expansion tank therefore i could not use the vacuum fill system.
I will have to save the tank replacement some other time.
I currently have the car jacked on the rear.
I have the bleeder valve on up position.
I fill the tank as much as i can making sure it is just at the minimum line before i turned the engine on.
Heater on max.
Every time the coolant temp goes above 180F there is large amount of overflow from the expansion tank spilling quite a bit of coolant on the ground.
Is this expected? I have to turn off the engine to stop the burping. I am thinking there is quite a bit of air in the system.
Do i just turn engine off to cool down each time it goes above 180F and repeat filling process?
Should I just maybe have the car on a flat level?

 

I've read that a guy here simply burped his system with out the vacuum process. I've got mine apart now and plan to use that method.

What you describe is not that unusual on regular cars. I would keep filling until the radiator was full . However, these cars are different.

How much coolant did you take out? all 6 gallons? That's a lot of burping to do.

How much coolant can you get in between each burp?

 

6 gallons out.

I was only on the 3rd gallon before it started spewing things out.
Yup a lot of burping. A month old baby.

I did try the vacuum process using my brand new Maddox kit but it could not hold negative pressure.
Likely a bad expansion tank as it is the original i believe. Have 103K+ on the odo.

 

If you have a leak, the vacuum fill tool will not work. You MUST fix the leak, ( whether you use the vacuum fill tool or not). Never drive with a known leak.

Since you have the ability to pressurize the system, you can use pressure to find the leak and also partially fill the system. You can apply up to 19psi pressure on the system, if the leak is down low it should be evident and coolant will exit the leak if under 19psi. IF the leak is high up (coolant tank), the system will keep purging air and accepting coolant untill the coolant level reaches the level of the leak, then you will have visible evidence of where the leak is...

 

I understand I have to fix the leak. Which i will.
I returned the Maddox kit since I could not use it.
I have the air compressor but now i don't have the adapter to seal the coolant tank.
Will have to run out to autozone and get one of their loaner tool for pressure testing.
If it is indeed the expansion tank then i have to order it first.

In the mean time I want to try to fill the system manually. Just this constant spewing is annoying.
My thermostat is a Wahler rated at 160F. During the filling process the temp stays at around two-three marks above 180 is this because I don't have enough coolant in the system?
Or a defective thermostat?
Seems obvious but asking anyway.
I touched the hoses that go to pump and thermostat -- both warm so coolant is flowing there.
I feel heat blowing through the fan now after I lowered the car on level ground.
I have not noticed any obvious leak under the car.
No obvious leak around the new pump and thermostat. I made sure the engine surface was clean prior to applying the new gaskets/pump/stat.

 

R u running the car with the cap off? If so its gonna dump fluid. To burp the system just pull the metal wire tab to the vertical position. This will keep the vent to the over flow tube open.

I have filled the system several times this way. may take a dozen drive cycles.

Also a few if use have had issue with the wahler t-stat and we all switched to the ln-e unit. Keep an eye on your temps

 

got the cap off the whole time and the metal tab on up position.

 

Yea put the cap it will solve your issue.

 

That is probably the problem. The cap should be on with the metal tab in the up position. That's what I'll be doing.

The vent out the top will allow it to burp. Once it chugs with the thermostat opens up you can take the cap off and fill.

 

aahhhh! i been looking at some burping DYI and they all say keep cap off.
thank you.

 

yup will try this.

 

Most systems dont have a pressure release valve like ours or rads in the front. Lots of dips and vallies in the system for air to hide.

 

well that helped
also what it needed was a drive around town to get the fluids moving around and air to ride up to burp. No longer having issue w/ overflowing.
I think i have about 4 gallons + in so far. Two more to go throughout the week.
Again haven't noticed any drips at the bottom.
So likely i have some leak on the expansion tank.
Should had added that on my task to begin with. Oh well.
Rented coolant pressure test kit from O'reilly but it didn't fit the tank opening. May have to rent the adapter kit tomorrow.
This past week had been an ordeal but at least now I know how to remove broken bolts and much more confident in working with this car.

So safe to have the burp valve up for a while?
Since the new stat is rated for 160F should the coolant temp gauge show 160 instead of 180?

Thank you for all that had been helpful and provided words of encouragement.

 

The thermostat just begins to open at 160, it still has the same operating temp. Yes, you can drive it around with the burp valve open.

 

No it will still equalize at the same temp but it wil take longer to get there. Your rads r only so efficient and the fans dont turn on till 208*.

yes u can keep the valve open. Minus 2 gal is a lot so travel with the fluid in case it burps and drops quickly.