Barshfield

I don't often post in this forum, so please go easy on me. I've got a 2001 996 C2 with 155,000 miles on the clock. While in the shop for an oil change, the tech told me that it sounded like one of my chain tensioners was going bad and that it would cost about $2,200 to fix it. I finally decided (three months later) to take back in to have that fixed. Now they tell me that the cams are way out of sync and that it needs the whole upper end rebuilt, to the tune of $7,500. Add to that a new clutch and some electrical work and I'm looking at a bill for $11-12,000. I bought the car five years ago for $13,000 and have been using it only as a periodic driver (no tracking or particularly hard driving). Other than these issues to be addressed, the car has performed well and reliably.
So - who thinks it would be worth it to fix up and who thinks I should sell it as is and look to purchase either a later 996 or a 997 (or something else)?
Thanks in advance for weighing in. (I just created a poll for those of you who like checking boxes).

Leeroy89

I’m in a similar situation. I bought mine for $14k sight unseen and it needs about $10k in repairs to get it totally sorted out. I don’t regret buying it because I want to keep it for many years and with prices rising quickly, I felt it was a good time to scoop one up cheaply.

I also like to think I’m saving a future classic that would otherwise be left to die an unsightly death. I want to keep things things on the road!

i think we need to let go of the notion that any of this make financial sense. I know it doesn’t and that’s ok!

Porschetech3

Not enough context, but from that post I would say go to another shop and get a second opinion. Sounds like you have some worn vario-cam pads, chain, and possible actuator.

But even with a more reasonable estimate it will not make your "fix or sell" decision any easier....

e90steve

If you could sell it for what you paid for it, disclosing all known issues to the perspective buyer, seems like an opportunity to take the money you have into it and put it into the next project.

Barshfield

Your "sounds like" sentence sounds like the words being thrown at me by the shop (new pads, new chain, new actuators). I've had my car serviced at two shops so far. when getting estimates for a new clutch, the other shop quoted me about 50% higher. So I'm thinking my current shop is going to be more modestly priced for the required work.

996AE

I always think, gee wiz if someone buys a high mile car at some point some lucky buyer will all inheret a big rebuild bill

Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you dont

So down the rabbit hole one goes

If you love the car and have spent time and money keeping it fresh and this is all its needs.... maybe

But at some point you cut your losses and move on

Only you know which is best for you

Barshfield

I'm just wondering if I would love another 911 even more. I don't know - this was my first Porsche (earlier in life, I had Jaguar E-Types).

robw33

That's a real predicament. If the car is generally worn out I would be reluctant to drop $10K into it because that $10K it won't add even close to that in value. If you do a major rebuild and spend $20K the car may be worth $20K to $25K unless everything else is in perfect working order. I would look at the cam deviations and also inspect the bores to see if you got a real rebuild ahead of you. What you don't want to have is a car that demands multiple thousands every year as the next thing happens. If you cut your losses now, you can probably get what you paid for it (maybe more) and let someone else go down the rabbit hole. I think there are plenty of DIY guys that would love a project like that. Of course, it all depends on how the rest of the car is (interior, suspension, paint, AOS, IMS, tires, etc.). Or better yet, drive the snot out of it and if something major happens you could still fetch $10K as a roller.

Barshfield

In addition to the modest price, some factors I considered when I bought the car in 2015 at 139k miles were that it had decent power, the suspension was tight and rattle-free (indicating good upkeep on all the flexible bits), the paint was generally in good condition (with a few paint dings), and the interior leather and Alcantara headliner were in outstanding shape (some of the trim still needs TLC, though). I don't consider the car generally worn out at all, especially with the prospect of a new clutch and the anticipated work on the engine upper end. Although I'm not too much of an auto mechanic, I do know enough to be at least interested if not concerned about the anticipated life expectancy of the lower end - pistons and bearings.

Mike Murphy

I think folks should only consider full engine rebuilds at this stage of engine life, or sell the car. Don’t drop $5k or $10k and expect that one fix to last for 100,000 miles or even 20,000 miles, even if it could.

Edit: I’d also consider a DIY used engine swap, if you could find one and do the swap yourself on the cheap. It’s rolling the dice, but selling two failed engines worth $1000 apiece won’t be hard, and the used engine shouldn’t really cost that much (let’s say $6k or less), so you’re only out $4k and time if it goes south.

Barshfield

And how much more would I expect to pay for a full engine rebuild? I'm not a DIYer when it comes to replacing engines.

De Jeeper

Get another opinion. A simple scan of the cam deviations will tell u if the variocam pads need done.

Chain tensioners are about $500 for all 3 and should not be more then 4hr labor and an oil change. Redoing the variocam shouldnt be more the $5k depending on if its only pads. I just spent $1500 on parts and did all the work myself, which included plugs, coils and fuel injectors.

if u can do it yourself i would do a prequalification protocal as if u were installing an ln engineering ims bearing and scope the cylinders. This will give u a good overview of the health of your motor and if its worth spending the green.


Also if they pull the motor for variocam work its an extra hour to do the clutch.

Pricing on this whole job seems like it was done as book time for each individual repair not as entire job. Pricing is real high imho.

Barshfield

As I recall, the shop told me that the cam deviation was 17 degrees, way out of spec. They recommended doing the pads, actuators, and chain, and quoted me about $7,500 for this work.

Mike Murphy

I think you’re looking at $20k to do it right

De Jeeper

At that number u would have a cel light. Some reader use a crank angle instead of a cam angle. Mine does this and u have to devide the numbers by 2. That would even be an 8.5 and that would probably give u a cel too.

See if another shop or that shop to rescan and take a pic if the screen. U should be able to see both banks and that helps.

Mine before my work.