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I just put a complete thin line around the cover. I did not smear it and installed pretty quick. No need to let it skin up.
thanks De Jeeper
Two follow-up questions:
1. Did you apply the sealant to only the valve cover? ...is there any reason to apply some sealant to certain spots on the engine case flange?
2. How soon can I pour the oil into the engine, after re-installing the valve cover?
Two follow-up questions:
1. Did you apply the sealant to only the valve cover? ...is there any reason to apply some sealant to certain spots on the engine case flange?
2. How soon can I pour the oil into the engine, after re-installing the valve cover?
Just the cover is enough.
I used locktight 5900. I think the instructions said it sets up in an hour and full cure was 24hr. I have used the same stuff in my oil pan plate and added oil a few hours after and it was fine.
I used locktight 5900. I think the instructions said it sets up in an hour and full cure was 24hr. I have used the same stuff in my oil pan plate and added oil a few hours after and it was fine.
That stuff (loctite 5900) is hard to press out of the tube. I smeared it on a little bit at a time on the sump and wiped it away from the inside edge to minimize or eliminate how much squeezed into the interior. I probably have enough left to do it again.
That stuff (loctite 5900) is hard to press out of the tube. I smeared it on a little bit at a time on the sump and wiped it away from the inside edge to minimize or eliminate how much squeezed into the interior. I probably have enough left to do it again.
Use the 5900 in the “aerosol”. It’s a breeze and you’ll never go back to the tube.
Woah, i haven't logged on in a while and didn't expect so many responses! Thanks everyone, this helps lead me in the right direction. As bad as i want to just lower the engine a tad and work only on bank 1, i think i will be dropping the engine to do the work. With 130k miles on the car and original clutch, it'll be a great time to do that, and replace the AOS and any old hoses on the top of the engine. I haven't really driven the car much since i got back since i know it needs this work. Ready to get it fixed and start driving it! Just have some other projects to knock out first that take priority.
I don't have time to watch the video, but it sounds like the kind of symptoms I had and I really wanted it to be just a sensor. But in reality you just have to accept that it's normal maintenance to replace the variocam wear pads, chains, actuators and solenoids around 60k miles with a 3.4 engine. Did that and it has been running perfectly for a year now.
03-15-2021, 04:01 PM
