RE b&M
03-10-2004 | 02:44 PM
#32
Pro
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
From: Newport Beach, California
Originally posted by SPR
would you have a copy of the adjustment to make it better? I would appreciate it thanks, or anyone for that matter-
would you have a copy of the adjustment to make it better? I would appreciate it thanks, or anyone for that matter-
03-10-2004 | 02:53 PM
#33
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 2
From: San Jose, CA
The B&M install DVD we made last year shows how to install the shift on 4 different cars. The Porsche unit had not come out yet when we made the DVD.
A few months ago we filmed the install of the Porsche unit per the Porsche install instructions.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...t=0&#entry3248
There is no room on the DVD to include the Porsche unit as the 5th install. So I am thinking of deleting 1 of the 4 B&M installs and replacing it with the Porsche unit install per the Porsche instructions. I will first have to look at the video to see if it came out ok.
It makes no difference if you do it the B&M or Porsche way. You get the exact same result in the end. Just 2 different ways to do the same job.
A few months ago we filmed the install of the Porsche unit per the Porsche install instructions.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...t=0&#entry3248
There is no room on the DVD to include the Porsche unit as the 5th install. So I am thinking of deleting 1 of the 4 B&M installs and replacing it with the Porsche unit install per the Porsche instructions. I will first have to look at the video to see if it came out ok.
It makes no difference if you do it the B&M or Porsche way. You get the exact same result in the end. Just 2 different ways to do the same job.
03-10-2004 | 08:07 PM
#34
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,199
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
The adjustment of the shifters, be it the B&M or the PAG TSB, is about the same. But as a practical matter, when you adjust the shifter per the TSB it is inherently tighter than with the b&M instructions. I have found myself tightening the set screw significantly more with the TSB than I ever did with the original B&M instructions, which are a little unclear IMO. When there is excessive slop in these shifters, I think it can predispose to missing the 2-3 upshift or hitting the gate so to speak. Since I adjusted mine per the TSB, compliments of Tool Pants
, I have had zero problems at the track.
As far as the cables go, it doesn't matter as long as they are marked or put back en block. Now I haven't installed as many as Jeff and Loren, but this has been my experience FWIW.
, I have had zero problems at the track.As far as the cables go, it doesn't matter as long as they are marked or put back en block. Now I haven't installed as many as Jeff and Loren, but this has been my experience FWIW.
03-10-2004 | 09:35 PM
#35
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 1
From: CA
03-11-2004 | 05:08 PM
#38
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Simi Valley, CA
DJ 996 - Can you also send the TSB to me. I am also getting ready to install the shifter.
Thanks
dmosesson@adelphia.net
Thanks
dmosesson@adelphia.net
03-11-2004 | 09:21 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 2
From: Pittsboro, NC
Doug,
Last week, when I had my '01 in for service, the loaner was an '01 Boxster with a B&M short shift. I loved the feel but I couldn't stomach the $500 price quoted from the dealer. I saw the ad on E-bay from Brandywine in PA and ordered this morning. The price was $199.95 + $7.50 shipping. They said that I should have it in a three days.
Can you also send me the TSB. My e-mail is:
randyhayward@earthlink.net
Last week, when I had my '01 in for service, the loaner was an '01 Boxster with a B&M short shift. I loved the feel but I couldn't stomach the $500 price quoted from the dealer. I saw the ad on E-bay from Brandywine in PA and ordered this morning. The price was $199.95 + $7.50 shipping. They said that I should have it in a three days.
Can you also send me the TSB. My e-mail is:
randyhayward@earthlink.net
03-12-2004 | 01:13 AM
#41
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, Canada
Hi Doug,
WOuld you mind emailing me the TSB as well? I installed the B&M about 6 months ago and have been wondering if it is a little "off". Email is:
important@rogers.com
Thanks,
MT
WOuld you mind emailing me the TSB as well? I installed the B&M about 6 months ago and have been wondering if it is a little "off". Email is:
important@rogers.com
Thanks,
MT
03-12-2004 | 09:24 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 2
From: Pittsboro, NC
Sean,
It's a neat little marketing ploy. The service tech said that they have installed quite a few short shifters since they put one in the loaner. In fact, when the service advisor called to say my car was ready, he asked how I liked the short shifter and if I wanted them to install one.
It's a neat little marketing ploy. The service tech said that they have installed quite a few short shifters since they put one in the loaner. In fact, when the service advisor called to say my car was ready, he asked how I liked the short shifter and if I wanted them to install one.
03-12-2004 | 12:18 PM
#45
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 1
From: CA
I could have sworn I did a write up of my experience installing the shifter yesterday in this thread, as I don't see it, here it goes again.
I installed the porsche shifter yesterday after I got my car back from the dealer for some small things done etc.
I took the console off- have done that about 5 times or so, on third console, no big deal. I initially followed the B&M instructinos as after reading tool pants' comment on the reverse/side to side lever removal I said screw that! I made a big mistake however and DID NOT mark the cables!!! Doh! I didn't even think about it as I was following the B&M instructions from the web and had the porsche adjustment instructions etc. Big mistake? Not really. So I poped out the colsole chipped off the tabs and removed the shifter and the shifter linkages, no big deal. I was pretty happy with how easy that was and how fast it was all going - was about 20 minutes in with old shifter out-. It took me about 5 min to figure out how to shove the new shifter in by pushing the white arm all the way up and then shoving the ball in there at the same time etc.
I cleaned the slide where the ball went and lubed it with the new grease- looks like lithium? In any event I tried for like 5 mins. like a moron to put the old square slide on the new ball, duh, the ball is the size of the square and bigger than the old ball, no need and not designed that way, so continued. Then I greesed the inside of the plastic cups liberally stuck them on and then greesed the inside of the billet cups and put them on, thats right, woops fogot to put in the washers! DOH! I was just too excited. So I pushed the billet cups off but the plastic ones wouldn't come off so I used a punch to push them off from the hole meant for adjustment - the cups are resiliant so no problemo
Then I regrease everything to make sure it's nice. BTW I cleaned every surface first then greased. I couldn't believe how filty it was in there and how greasy and dirty that yellow grease was!
So I have it back together used the x in a phillips screwdriver to help push on the snap rings to save the fingers- nice, then I cleaned and installed the to fro adjuster. It was filthy inside I had to make 5 passes to get all the black crap out of it. Then I regreased liveberally inside it as well as all over the ball and shoved it on by hand- nice
then I slap in the adjustment on the front and screw it back down on the car. First thing I notice, hey there is no room to adjust the damn lash with my allen key, folding type with like 9 in one-. No problem I moved the adjustement scew and nut to the back and begin
Now I was originally going to follow the tsb instructions for the lash setting, however I found a better way to do it.
As I lubed up all the parts that move in the shifter nicely. When I grabbed the black billet body and moved it to and fro it slid pretty easy. I did this while cranking in on the allen for lash. This resulted in exactly zero lash. Then I set the set nut. Uh oh, the billet cup started wanterding, nice key POrsche!!! whatever.
This did force me to redo the lash again, but since it pushes on the snapring on the other side against the plastic it held just fine. Just don't go agro on how hard to set the jam nut!!!
So the lash is perfect I am pleased. That's when I found out about the cables! ah crap!
As I didn't know where to start initially I started with the side to side one - and then the to fro - Wrong
Then I looked at the b&M pictorial for the to fro just for a general indicator where to start. There is a tab on teh recepticle which lines up with the bottom of the threads of the to fro cable. This was not too bad, but not perfect. I had to hook up the other side to side by about the same marker so I could check the throw to and fro on the to/fro cable
So I start rowing the boat. hehe
Yeah its of, so I moved it up and down like three times until it was exactly the same distance from n to forward and n to back. I initially measured the distance but it proved inaccurate so Ijust got my row on! Worked better.
BTW I found that if you pull the cable deal back and slide it to the side it remains open!! yes, yes, I didn't realize this until like the 5th time I was making an adjustment!!! Also it was easiest to make all adjustment on both cables with the stick in N
So on to the side to side being happy with the to fro
I had it still in the rough estimated spot of bottom threads to tab, off again. I noted this because it was a biatch to get it in R so I moved it and did it again, and again, until I had the same resistance from n to 1/2 and n to 5/6/. Well it was pretty close but since it had to got to R it actually ended up liking a little more resistance to 5/6 than 1/2 as it still had to go to R
Now I was reasonably pleased so I took all my tools to the apt and went for a spin.
DAMN I was impressed and gitty, and was like that the rest of the night! It was such an improvement it was rediculous! the stops were positive as hell, the throw is short, and the throw to and fro is equal, and my main concern no binding, no popping out nothing just perfect. I then went home and buttoned it up and went and had some wine! NICE
I installed the porsche shifter yesterday after I got my car back from the dealer for some small things done etc.
I took the console off- have done that about 5 times or so, on third console, no big deal. I initially followed the B&M instructinos as after reading tool pants' comment on the reverse/side to side lever removal I said screw that! I made a big mistake however and DID NOT mark the cables!!! Doh! I didn't even think about it as I was following the B&M instructions from the web and had the porsche adjustment instructions etc. Big mistake? Not really. So I poped out the colsole chipped off the tabs and removed the shifter and the shifter linkages, no big deal. I was pretty happy with how easy that was and how fast it was all going - was about 20 minutes in with old shifter out-. It took me about 5 min to figure out how to shove the new shifter in by pushing the white arm all the way up and then shoving the ball in there at the same time etc.
I cleaned the slide where the ball went and lubed it with the new grease- looks like lithium? In any event I tried for like 5 mins. like a moron to put the old square slide on the new ball, duh, the ball is the size of the square and bigger than the old ball, no need and not designed that way, so continued. Then I greesed the inside of the plastic cups liberally stuck them on and then greesed the inside of the billet cups and put them on, thats right, woops fogot to put in the washers! DOH! I was just too excited. So I pushed the billet cups off but the plastic ones wouldn't come off so I used a punch to push them off from the hole meant for adjustment - the cups are resiliant so no problemo
Then I regrease everything to make sure it's nice. BTW I cleaned every surface first then greased. I couldn't believe how filty it was in there and how greasy and dirty that yellow grease was!
So I have it back together used the x in a phillips screwdriver to help push on the snap rings to save the fingers- nice, then I cleaned and installed the to fro adjuster. It was filthy inside I had to make 5 passes to get all the black crap out of it. Then I regreased liveberally inside it as well as all over the ball and shoved it on by hand- nice
then I slap in the adjustment on the front and screw it back down on the car. First thing I notice, hey there is no room to adjust the damn lash with my allen key, folding type with like 9 in one-. No problem I moved the adjustement scew and nut to the back and begin
Now I was originally going to follow the tsb instructions for the lash setting, however I found a better way to do it.
As I lubed up all the parts that move in the shifter nicely. When I grabbed the black billet body and moved it to and fro it slid pretty easy. I did this while cranking in on the allen for lash. This resulted in exactly zero lash. Then I set the set nut. Uh oh, the billet cup started wanterding, nice key POrsche!!! whatever.
This did force me to redo the lash again, but since it pushes on the snapring on the other side against the plastic it held just fine. Just don't go agro on how hard to set the jam nut!!!
So the lash is perfect I am pleased. That's when I found out about the cables! ah crap!
As I didn't know where to start initially I started with the side to side one - and then the to fro - Wrong
Then I looked at the b&M pictorial for the to fro just for a general indicator where to start. There is a tab on teh recepticle which lines up with the bottom of the threads of the to fro cable. This was not too bad, but not perfect. I had to hook up the other side to side by about the same marker so I could check the throw to and fro on the to/fro cable
So I start rowing the boat. hehe
Yeah its of, so I moved it up and down like three times until it was exactly the same distance from n to forward and n to back. I initially measured the distance but it proved inaccurate so Ijust got my row on! Worked better.
BTW I found that if you pull the cable deal back and slide it to the side it remains open!! yes, yes, I didn't realize this until like the 5th time I was making an adjustment!!! Also it was easiest to make all adjustment on both cables with the stick in N
So on to the side to side being happy with the to fro
I had it still in the rough estimated spot of bottom threads to tab, off again. I noted this because it was a biatch to get it in R so I moved it and did it again, and again, until I had the same resistance from n to 1/2 and n to 5/6/. Well it was pretty close but since it had to got to R it actually ended up liking a little more resistance to 5/6 than 1/2 as it still had to go to R
Now I was reasonably pleased so I took all my tools to the apt and went for a spin.
DAMN I was impressed and gitty, and was like that the rest of the night! It was such an improvement it was rediculous! the stops were positive as hell, the throw is short, and the throw to and fro is equal, and my main concern no binding, no popping out nothing just perfect. I then went home and buttoned it up and went and had some wine! NICE