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I never knew that I had to use anti-seize on the lug nuts in more than just the threads!
Here's the instructions, see pic below.
I just pulled my wheels off and the lug nuts were dry as a bone. Applied the anti-seize as directed and torqued them to 96 ft. lbs. in three increments, 30-60-96.
I got a way more of a turn on the torque wrench than before when they were dry.
I hope this is not true....I have never used anti seize grease on any of my cars except for my centerlock turbo s. I swore I would do centerlock delete on any car I buy in the future because of that grease. Is there a problem with not using on the lugs. What is the risk?
The trick is you can apply what you need with a Q-tip,, most folks way overdo the anti-seize.
All that's needed is a small dab (Think < BB)
Its also more important on the 2 piece "floating" lugs than the old single piece ones,
If you have a early 911 (69-74) with the Aluminum lugnuts its important to prevent electrolysis
between the aluminum and steel.
Right tool for the right job used at the right time.
There are other types of lube that will do the job ,, There is a brand called Superlube that
works well to just protect the threads on the bolts again,,, less is more.
Its a very light silicone grease.
Yes truth - none of you read the owners manual... tsk tsk haha
Page 208:
Apply a thin coat of Optimoly TA (aluminium
paste) on the thread and between the bolt
head and movable spherical cap ring (arrows).
The bearing surface of the spherical cap
facing the wheel must not be greased.
I never knew that I had to use anti-seize on the lug nuts in more than just the threads!
Here's the instructions, see pic below.
I just pulled my wheels off and the lug nuts were dry as a bone. Applied the anti-seize as directed and torqued them to 96 ft. lbs. in three increments, 30-60-96.
I got a way more of a turn on the torque wrench than before when they were dry.
Suggest you start doing this if you haven't yet!
Appreciate the info, I will carefully apply next time.
I hope this is not true....I have never used anti seize grease on any of my cars except for my centerlock turbo s. I swore I would do centerlock delete on any car I buy in the future because of that grease. Is there a problem with not using on the lugs. What is the risk?
From what I've heard from gear-head gurus with the phd's to prove it - If you're just driving around the streets and keeping it under 110 mph, no biggee. But if you're tracking it or "driving it like you stole it" all the time and generating a lot of heat on the hubs, the anti seize becomes more crucial - I think the anti-seize provides for a little lubrication that when torqueing, provides a more accurate reading. The wheel and hub assembly are stressed tremendously under heavy loads and you want the wheel/hub to be torqued correctly to the correct values.
Bottom line, because we remove our wheels a bunch, the standard use of the anti-seize is negated, but the important part is the lubrication for torqing.
From what I've heard from gear-head gurus with the phd's to prove it - If you're just driving around the streets and keeping it under 110 mph, no biggee. But if you're tracking it or "driving it like you stole it" all the time and generating a lot of heat on the hubs, the anti seize becomes more crucial - I think the anti-seize provides for a little lubrication that when torqueing, provides a more accurate reading. The wheel and hub assembly are stressed tremendously under heavy loads and you want the wheel/hub to be torqued correctly to the correct values.
Bottom line, because we remove our wheels a bunch, the standard use of the anti-seize is negated, but the important part is the lubrication for torqing.
My .02...
Are these GT/Turbo instructions only?
I've also read that when torqueing any fastener with anti-seize the #'s need to be reduced.
Are these GT/Turbo instructions only?
I've also read that when torqueing any fastener with anti-seize the #'s need to be reduced.
It's for all our 996's...I just chose to take a pic of the sheet for the GT/Turbo, non-turbo C2 and C4 are the same.
Reduced, nope, because Porsche specifies the use of the anti-seize AND a value of 96 ft lbs.
Common auto repair 101 says you should always divide up a high value into thirds, hence the 30/60/96 I used, and with a cross-hatch tightening pattern.
I think the anti-seize provides for a little lubrication that when torqueing, provides a more accurate reading. The wheel and hub assembly are stressed tremendously under heavy loads and you want the wheel/hub to be torqued correctly to the correct values.
Bottom line, because we remove our wheels a bunch, the standard use of the anti-seize is negated, but the important part is the lubrication for torqing.
My .02...
I think this is very true. The effective torque seen at the wheel is likely very different when torqued to 96 with anti-sieze versus without. It's likely safe either way, but when the factory spec is 96 ft-lbs with anti-sieze, that's the only proper way to do it.
I didn't realize the area marked with arrows in the first post needed anti-sieze as well -- can't remember if I did that last time, though I did do the threads.
.
Last edited by peterp; 09-03-2019 at 12:20 PM.
Reason: Corrected location of anti-sieze application
09-02-2019, 08:54 PM
Anti-seize on the lug nuts, did you know?
