When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I changed over to winter tires three weeks ago. It was a bear getting the lugs loose. I have an impact wrench that wasn't strong enough and a socket that wasn't long enough I guess. Are they always that hard to remove? I did not put anti-sieze on when I replace the lugs. Is this a big deal? What are the repercussions? Thank you.
I always use it on my lug nuts, and then torque to spec. I know there are conflicting views in this but I have been doing so for years, including my DE car, and have never experienced loosening or failure. Use the silver stuff.
If they were that difficult to remove, they were over torqued by a great deal or something is wrong.
No mechanic worth their salt will ever put anti-sieze on wheel threads.
I was recently working with some fresh graduates from the local 2-year automotive SAE tech school. We were working with the tire machine and in conversation I asked: "Do you ever put anti-size on lug threads?" There was much laughter and one spoke up: "Nope, they teach us that in the first week of school!"
IMO some of the confusion came from people who put anit-size on the face of the lug bolt so doesn't seize to the wheel....or people who have issues like this and assume anti-seize is the answer.
Even The Tire Rack says so: https://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Anti-Seize It is important to make sure your threads are free of dirt, grit and other materials in order to achieve a proper torque. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs. This can result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over torquing of the hardware.
I've never had issues removing properly torqued nuts even on my winter beaters that spend months marinating in a salt lick 4 months a year.
Years ago there were Porsche bulletins stating to use Optimoly HT part number 999.917.728.00 on lugs & specifically stated Optimoly HT does not effect tightening torque. The same cannot be said for anti-sieze.
I put a tiny dab on the leading threads of each bolt. One tiny dab will last you 5-10 removals. My Porter Cable impact gun works great!!! See my vid below.
My Porsche owners manual specifies the use of anti-seize..... the permatex silver stuff in the little tube is fine... it is primarily aluminum grease.
On the Jetta and the 911 I give a quick drop or three of oil to keep the lugs from rusting (no longer on the 911 as I have the World Motorsports Ti lugs).
The wheels come of the Jetta twice a year for winter/summer swaps, and they come off the 911 at least a couple times per summer for various fiddling, so they never have time to seize.
When I studied for my master in mechanical engineering we were always taught that threads have to be lubricated.
All torques in mechanical connections involving nuts and bolts are based on lubricated threads. If not - the torque will not be consistent as majority of it will be used for friction and not actually tightening it enough. Especially the last few mm:s
I use Alu-paste but only on the threads. Very easy to tighten. Don't get stuck either.
Bruce in philly, there is a world of difference between aluminum paste (which won’t change the torquing force from that of clean dry threads) and the silver anti-seize you are confusing with it. Check the illustration from the Porsche manual in your post, it calls for aluminum paste.
FWIW.. this is from the PCA Tech Q&A section: 04.12.2008 Asked by Stephen Etherington
Wheels and TiresVehicle Information: Model : 997 Turbo; Year: 2007; Mileage: 5000;
My owner's manual for the 997 turbo says to use Optimoly TA (aluminum paste) to lubricate the lug nuts when installing wheels. I can't find this product? What should I do? Is there a substitute? Many thanks.
It's just anti-seize. Copper based ones are popular and easy to find.
Joel Reiser answering for Peter Smith
I'm surprised the anti-seize v. no anti-seize discussion hasn't morphed into a debate over torque specs - is it 96 ft lbs or is it 118 ft lbs? I've used Optimoly and both torque specs over the last 12 years and have never had a loose bolt or difficulty removing a bolt. The only consistency is that we know that this discussion will continue over the coming years.