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I changed mine yesterday. Both rear sensors have to replaced at the connector plug next to the driver seat. Not a difficult task but need to remove driver seat and carpets..
I know this is an old thread, but does anybody know the correct depinning tool for these barrel connectors? I've been through four so far, and they're all either just too small to actually push in the prongs or just ever so slightly too big to fit down into the plastic housing and actually get to the prongs, or too short for me to be able to tell if its the right one or not ...
Took me an hour to remove the interior and get to the harness for this job, then I spent four hours unsuccessfully trying to depin the connector.
I know this is an old thread, but does anybody know the correct depinning tool for these barrel connectors? I've been through four so far, and they're all either just too small to actually push in the prongs or just ever so too big to fit down into the plastic housing and actually get to the prongs, or too short for me to be able to tell if its the right one or not ...
Took me an hour to remove the interior and get to the harness for this job, then I spent four hours unsuccessfully trying to depin the connector.
By the way, the kit comes pinned now - EDIT: Sorry, different part number. This is 996-612-953-01-OEM.
For anybody doing the splice method .... you absolutely do not have to remove your interior. If you remove the rubber gasket in the wheelwell, pull out as much cable as you can, cut it off with about 5 inches hanging out, and do the solder+splice it at that point (heat shrink individually then the bundle), there's enough space in the cavity that you can put your spliced portion up behind that gasket so that it's "inside" the car without having to remove the interior.
Best of both worlds if you ask me. Clean, effective, water-safe, and a massive time saver. This is like a 90-150 minute job per corner if you do it this way.
For anybody doing the splice method .... you absolutely do not have to remove your interior. If you remove the rubber gasket in the wheelwell, pull out as much cable as you can, cut it off with about 5 inches hanging out, and do the solder+splice it at that point (heat shrink individually then the bundle), there's enough space in the cavity that you can put your spliced portion up behind that gasket so that it's "inside" the car without having to remove the interior.
Best of both worlds if you ask me. Clean, effective, water-safe, and a massive time saver. This is like a 90-150 minute job per corner if you do it this way.
I (personally) needed the interior out anyway, for rear window regulators and cabriolet hydraulics, but this is a brilliant solution - keeps the splices inside the car, behind the rubber seal - provided you can get that grommet / seal back in place without pressing from the inside - and is a great idea.
Thank you for all the great information and pictures of this harness (loom). I too have had that wheel sensor ABS and brake pad wear connector just completely come apart and bought the repair kit but didn't know the extent of the re-work. I really like this year 2006 Boxster because the parts are available and reasonable in price and with this forum I haven't been without great help. Thanks !!!
Wow, great timing on this old thread popping up. I just ran into this exact problem!! I stripped my interior down to the studs over the winter to install new carpet & soundproofing so that's not a big issue. Repinning it with the new kit or splicing & stuffing?
Same here, tried to replace the rear right speed sensor today on my 987 and this is what I ended up with…
Sounds like I’ll get the repair kit and splice it from the wheel well. My car spent 14 years in a very hot climate so removing the carpet etc is likely going to break yet more stuff (as well as being a giant PITA).
Last edited by PowerFlower; 06-22-2022 at 10:28 AM.
Rodent devastation of ABS wiring and other circuits
Much gratitude to the contributor who posted photos of the wiring harness paths for the ABS and other circuits, and also ABS wiring diagrams. The photos revealing locations of the exposed wires and connections were a huge help in solving the failure of ABS and other circuits on my 1999 996 C2. Mice infiltrated my garage and car during several months of none use. The mice chewed ABS wiring near the ABS module under the brake fluid reservoir, chewed wiring on top of the fuel tank under the battery, and chewed wiring on the driver side floor near the rear seat. The chewed wiring damage left the speedometer, fuel gauge, and ABS system inoperable. The photos that were posted of the ABS wiring under the carpet near the rear seat allowed me to find the damaged area with minimal removal of interior components, I post photos here with consideration that they may help any victims of mice intrusion identify the probable places on the 996 that mice may choose to nest and chew wiring circuitry. I repaired all of the damaged wiring with spliced in inserts, coated the wire splices with shoe goo, and wrapped all exposed wires and connections Left rear floor area - mice nested and chewed wiring harness - access was gained by removing D side rear seat, seat belt bolts, side panel and pulling up carpet. A plastic cover over the connector and nest was sawed off to avoid a more extensive disassembly Mice nested and chewed wiring directly under the ABS module Damaged wiring inactivated ABS system and speedometer, activated brake wear light I began diagnosis with a iCarsoft POR V1.0 code reader which reported wheel speed sensor failures, when the wheel speed sensors tested good, I deductively established the wiring harness damage I first discovered the chewed fuel gauge circuitry on top of the fuel tank, followed by damage under the ABS module, and finally the rear floor area under carpeting. The wheel speed sensors directly feed to the ABS module and the signal from the ABS module feeds to the speedometer.,
Last edited by Antecedence57; 05-26-2023 at 09:13 PM.
Reason: incomplete insertion
My favorite connector is the style that crimp on and the plastic cover is clear so you can see the connection quality,
the cover is heat shrink and the inside of the tube has a thermal adhesive in it. Once they are on, you'll break the wire before you can pull them apart.
They sell a version with solder in the middle as well so the solder melts when you shrink the tubing. they come out looking amazing.
Soldered connections do require a degree of skill to do just right so as not to weaken the wire.
Thanks for your helpful wire repair suggestion pdxmotorhead. I initially attempted conventional soldering of the small gauge wires, but a successful solder fix was very slow and often elusive given the location is tenuous to access and the solder heat factor readily causes damage to the wiring and pin connector. Twisting the wires and coating the twisted connections with shoe goo ultimately creates an ultra strong, transparent, water proof, fully insulated repair connection, yet the disadvantage of this no heat approach is that it takes a day for the shoe goo to fully cure and reach maximum strength. I searched and found the type of transparent heat shrink connectors with solder that you reference on Amazon
These would surely be excellent for some applications, yet the need to apply sufficient heat to melt the solder component might make them impractical for some delicate applications.
08-21-2019, 04:00 PM
