wildbilly32

Do what you gotta do!

Flat6 Innovations

With yours being so classic, and you having found the issue yourself with the borescope, it may be difficult to do this in the future so conclusively.

BTW- Your pressure plate is grenaded.. When I drove the car back from the truck I noticed it right away due to the way the pedal felt.
Good thing my engine comes with a new one :-)

wildbilly32

I just sent a note to Jud concerning the clutch pedal feel and the brakes. When I parked it last Fall everything felt normal. Early winter I took it to my Indi for some diagnosis confirmation and other work. Part of his assignment was to check brakes and flush the fluid including the clutch system. Other than driving home a couple of miles on snowy roads I have only driven the car twice since serviced. Once to a PCA function about five miles distant and to the truck for shipping to you. Both times I noticed the hinky clutch pedal and the brakes felt different. I wrote that off to having been driving my new 2019 Civic Type R as it feels very different than the Porsche or that the Indi did something wrong. I'm glad you know what that is and will fix it during the rebuild process. I know, once again, I made the RIGHT decision.

Flat6 Innovations

In that case it could be the hydraulics fooling me.. The brakes felt ok..We’ll know soon.

wildbilly32

motoo344

I think in my e46 M3 the manual says get in the car and drive and keep it under 3k until it warms up. They also had a cool feature in the RPM counter that would light up as the car warmed up and once all the lights were on it was at operating temperature. I thought that was interesting because for whatever reason not until the last 5 or so years of owning cars have I heard that you shouldn't just let it idle. Maybe its been a shift in the type of cars I have owned.

Flat6 Innovations

Not really.. Its just a part of owning a vehicle that isn't generic. Think Porsche's are expensive to own? Try owning vehicles with tracks, and turrets. A brake job can cost 3K in parts, and take you 2 weeks to do!

KNS

When I lived in AZ I would wait at the elementary school along with hundreds of other parents until school let out to pick up the kids. I’d park the car and go stand under a shady tree. Nearly everyone else would sit in their car idling (AC was on), sometimes for up to 45 minutes! Picture this at hundreds of schools all over Phoenix.

Prolonged idling has always been bad for a car (any car) and I avoid it. I believe my ‘84 Carrera owner’s manual says to start the car and drive off, don’t warm it up.

strathconaman

“The storage oil is not a good oil to be using over the summer.”

Jake, do I need to use the same type of oil for storage as I do during the summer?

For the last two seasons I have been using DT40. I put 5000 miles over the summer on the car, change in November, and store until April 1. I do a UOA on the oil in November and then pine for my car for 4 months.

Up here in Canuckistan 8L of DT40 is $180. Using it over the winter as "storage oil" is going to add up. I am pretty sure that we (and by that I mean on this forum with Jake and/or Charles) had this discussion already, and that the result of that discussion was that for cars stored in the winter, changing before storage and not changing again in the spring was OK.

So what is better: Changing every 12 months with DT40, or every 6 months with Motul 8100 x-cess?

Flat6 Innovations

Looks like I need to do a video on this with Lake Speed Jr. soon.

jim010

Tracks and turrets ... the Elefant tank destroyer! Now that is an all terrain Porsche.

Flat6 Innovations

Nah, my flavor is Sabre, and Sultan.. And for the wheeled version, the Fox.

strathconaman

You answered the question on the 997 forum.

jimham968

Another excellent video. Thanks Jake for your support of this community. I was surprised that there was no discussion of temperature in the video. I thought there was a general consensus that higher oil temperatures could have reduced the oil film layer on the troublesome cylinders, with contribution to the bore scoring phenomenon. I believed this was the primary reason that the lower temperature thermostat was recommended. The video didn’t address the coolant system at all. Is there less concern that the coolant system temperature is a contributor to bore scoring?

Again, thanks Jake for this whole series of videos.

Jim

dporto

^^^ That's why I leave military vehicles to the military! They have that bottomless taxpayer bank account...Unfortunately I don't