Variocam Actuator bank 2 not engaging
05-03-2019, 07:07 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Variocam Actuator bank 2 not engaging
Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else? I would like to do this to trouble shoot to see if I can get the actuator to engage with Durametric (of course the engine will not be running). If it doesn't engage then I would then move to the the solenoid. I have seen videos where they can be cleaned and start working again however the videos I've seen have the variocam actuator completely taken out and set on a work bench. My concern is if I do this wrong I create a larger problem when simply inserting back in. Logically I do not think it will do anything as would think the cam or other internal parts would not have moved. Any advice, thoughts, questions or comments? Fault Code: P1524 Camshaft adjustment bank 2 then resulting in misfires on 4,5 & 6
***No reason to Respond to this as I have received direction from a Renntech member***
***No reason to Respond to this as I have received direction from a Renntech member***
Last edited by jbabington; 05-03-2019 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Received help from Renntech and want to include
05-04-2019, 12:27 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
If you've got a "variocam plus" car (3.6 L M96-03 or later) then I think you can remove the solenoid without removing the cam cover - but not the actuator itself. If it's not working, you could start by checking the solenoid - if it's bad replace it and see if you get lift at high (3,200?) rpm. If it still doesn't work with a good solenoid, the actuator itself probably isn't working. This doesn't necessarily mean it's toast...Sometimes they get clogged by debris in the oil. Regardless, you'll have to pull it out to clean it... Good luck
05-05-2019, 12:58 PM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
If you've got a "variocam plus" car (3.6 L M96-03 or later) then I think you can remove the solenoid without removing the cam cover - but not the actuator itself. If it's not working, you could start by checking the solenoid - if it's bad replace it and see if you get lift at high (3,200?) rpm. If it still doesn't work with a good solenoid, the actuator itself probably isn't working. This doesn't necessarily mean it's toast...Sometimes they get clogged by debris in the oil. Regardless, you'll have to pull it out to clean it... Good luck
05-05-2019, 06:22 PM
#4
You will need to remove the valve cover to remove the solenoid if it's faulty, it can be unbolted from the vario cam actuator without removing the whole actuator, you will need to install a cam hold down tool on the head to hold the cams before removing the cam cover as the cover itself mainly holds the cam in place with only one other set of bearing caps under the cover . Once the cover is off it's quite easy to remove the solenoid without touching anything else , if the actuator itself needs removing , the cams will need removing , the cams and actuator come out as one assembly and can then be removed on the bench by use of another special tool to remove tension from the small cam chain linking the cams before the actuator can be pulled out from between the cams , probably replace the actuator chain pads also as these are usually worn and cause cam deviation fault codes , good luck
Also look for glenn986s posts on Facebook , he rebuilt his boxster S engine
Also look for glenn986s posts on Facebook , he rebuilt his boxster S engine
05-05-2019, 06:23 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Noz1974
You will need to remove the valve cover to remove the solenoid if it's faulty, it can be unbolted from the vario cam actuator without removing the whole actuator, you will need to install a cam hold down tool on the head to hold the cams before removing the cam cover as the cover itself mainly holds the cam in place with only one other set of bearing caps under the cover . Once the cover is off it's quite easy to remove the solenoid without touching anything else , if the actuator itself needs removing , the cams will need removing , the cams and actuator come out as one assembly and can then be removed on the bench by use of another special tool to remove tension from the small cam chain linking the cams before the actuator can be pulled out from between the cams , probably replace the actuator chain pads also as these are usually worn and cause cam deviation fault codes , good luck
Also look for glenn986s posts on Facebook , he rebuilt his boxster S engine Attachment 1303588
Also look for glenn986s posts on Facebook , he rebuilt his boxster S engine Attachment 1303588
05-06-2019, 09:42 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
dporto- thanks for the input. I have 3.4L where I was hoping I could just simply remove the actuator by unbolting the two bolts holding it in, pull it out, clean it and reinsert it but it appears to be more complicated than that. I will start with the solenoid trouble shoot first.
As stated above, you'll need to remove the Cam cover. What you see sticking out is actually only the solenoid - the actuator is underneath the solenoid (as seen in the photo^^^). The solenoid isn't "cheap", but the actuator itself is crazy expensive (around $1k). Unfortunately, even though the test will tell you if it's working or not, they won't tell you why... So, you'll have to take everything apart regardless...(if it turns out they're bad/broken)...
Last edited by dporto; 05-06-2019 at 10:25 AM.
05-06-2019, 09:50 AM
#7
Originally Posted by dporto
^^Yeah, sorry to hear that As stated above, you'll need to remove the Cam cover. What you see sticking out is actually only the solenoid - the actuator is underneath the solenoid (as seen in the photo^^^). The solenoid isn't "cheap", but the actuator itself is crazy expensive (around $1k). Unfortunately, even though the test will tell you if it's working or not, they won't tell you why... So, you'll have to take everything apart regardless...
As stated above, you'll need to remove the Cam cover. What you see sticking out is actually only the solenoid - the actuator is underneath the solenoid (as seen in the photo^^^). The solenoid isn't "cheap", but the actuator itself is crazy expensive (around $1k). Unfortunately, even though the test will tell you if it's working or not, they won't tell you why... So, you'll have to take everything apart regardless...Trending Topics
05-06-2019, 09:54 AM
#8
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
You can test them with a 9V battery before removing anything. Just disconnect the electrical connector and when the engine is running, apply the 9V. The engine tone will change if the solenoid is working. If you are unsure, do the same thing with the bank that you know is good. I had this issue and turned out to be a fried transistor/driver in the ECU that caused the solenoid not to work. It was a $7 part that had to be soldered onto the ECU board. Test everything before removing anything!
05-07-2019, 11:19 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I just went through this. My post is called P1530 or P1531. I spent $1500 of a mechanic’s money when a 9V battery trick would have helped reduce that bill...
The mechanic told me my DME is sending the wrong signals, so I plan to have ECU doctors run a diagnosis on it.
Its correct that the solenoid is only removable by taking the cam cover off - a 7-8hr job! Even though there are two bolts that appear to hold it, it won’t come off on the 3.4 engine.
The mechanic told me my DME is sending the wrong signals, so I plan to have ECU doctors run a diagnosis on it.
Its correct that the solenoid is only removable by taking the cam cover off - a 7-8hr job! Even though there are two bolts that appear to hold it, it won’t come off on the 3.4 engine.
