Drei Bond 1209, Loctite 5900, Loctite 5920, all are excellent gasket makers and have been prescribed by OEM's BMW , Audi and Porsche. As mentioned avoid excess "squeeze out" by using sparingly.

 

I've always heard...apply the Drei Bond and reinstall the oil pan. Wait 24 hours before putting oil back in the sump. Longer if it is cold in the garage (or driveway).

 

That's right. Jake tried all that were mentioned by Porschetech3 but is reco was still the Drei bond because it works well and it's easy to clean up e.g. the next time you need to open up the oil pan and remove the old sealant.

 

I hate to disagree with Jake, but I prefer the Loctite 5900. Drei Bond 1209 was prescribed by Porsche for the Cayenne and I found that it doesn't stick (***** up) unless the surface is 100% clean and dry which is not always possible when on oil pans/valve covers when oil is dripping for days. Loctite 5900 will stick even when less than perfect dryness on work surfaces. Both have similar "tack free" times for assembling the mating surfaces. Drei Bond 1209 full cure in 24hrs, while Loctite 5900 full cure in 21 days but can be filled with oil after 30 min with a gap thickness of 0.5mm, and has a blow out psi of 175psi after 7 days at 0.5mm gap thickness.

But all are good if used in 100% clean and dry environment .

Loctite 5920 is silmilar to 5900 but is a bit thicker and can seal wider gaps.

 

Wait...ummm...none of this answers the question of "what type of oil should I refill with?"

 

^That's good info and good practical tip. I have had no problems with Drei bond but then I always keep the mating surfaces spotless and smooth.

 

Guys,
First, thanks for the sealant info. Always good to get recommendations. (I used 1207b - have had success on bike engines with it.)
OK, I've done some work, but it's not lookin' good so far:
Step 1: The pressure gauge needle was erratic, so I changed the pressure sensor. It now displays a steady 0 bar at key-on. (The old one fluctuated around 1 bar at key-on) It swings up to idle pressure very smoothly (the old one jerked upwards). So, I surmise that the old sensor had some stickiness and the new one seems to electrically work as expected. However, the bad news is the pressure reads lower now. At 3000 rpm warmed up cruise, it's 2.5~2.7bar. Cold idle at 2~3 bar, and hot idle at 1.0 bar. This is 1 to 1.5 less than a month ago. (Is it possible to get the wrong sensor and be mis-calibrated?) Also, it still takes 10 seconds to register pressure.
Step 2: The following evening, I changed the relief valve spring and piston. All parts from Pelican. Then I removed the oil pan. The strainer was perfectly clean. In the bottom of the pan there were a couple little clumps of sealant and a fingernail shaped/sized piece of hard plastic or resin. Brown. There were small amounts of sealant squeezed out of the joint, but still attached. I cleaned it all up thoroughly and reassembled. Result: No change whatsoever.

So, I'm getting nervous here. Something is obviously wrong. This is my daily driver. I've been driving this car for 30k over less than 2 years with rock solid 4 bar cruising pressure until recently. 97k total miles. It runs like a top. The oil looks perfect. Deep amber and visually clear, no specks, no sheen. My magnetic oil plug had a smudge of grime on it. Seems normal as I've not had one be perfectly clean after decent mileage. I've not done an analysis. I have pics of all the above, but I'm sure you guys visualize this description.
Ideas?

Jim in Green Bay.

 

Did you change the oil and oil filter?

 

Use a manual gauge to test the oil pressure. You can use the port on the other head for this and leave the sender in place.

If the pressure is still low or takes 10 seconds to respond, you will know you have an engine problem.

 

Thanks Tech3. Yup, I agree that's what I need to do next. The heads are a common casting, right? That means this tap is on the bottom towards the rear on the left side head, right?

 

Yes it is common casting, but it means the port is on the left rear instead of right front ,but it is still on top...

 

Of course. A little late night brain fade there. Maybe it was wishful thinking that it would be easy to access...

 

It seems like every pressure sender you install may read a bit different. I went through several. Check against a manual gauge if possible.

When I was chasing some random issues I also had read that if the needle moves up in the 'key on' position it could be a sender or a gauge cluster. I was also having issues (so I thought) with my fuel gauge needle. Turns out it was my sending unit... I verified that by hooking up a different cluster.

 

Guys,
I should maybe leave this subject alone, but my curiosity has not been satisfied.
Good news: the long delay in building pressure at cold start is "fixed".
Bad news: I left that word in quotes because I don't understand why. Here is a high level summary:

Problem: Oil pressure takes 10 seconds to build after a cold start.

Step 1: Changed sending unit. Result: Gauge display now at zero when cranking, smoother operation. 10 sec delay remains. Sender failure mode matches common descriptions.
Step 2: Changed the relief piston and spring for the new chamfered 997 design. Result: No change at all. 10 sec delay remains.
Step 3: Inspected the sump area. Result: No debris found, screen was clear. 10 sec delay remains.
Step 4: Unrelated? Changed the oil fill pipe to the 997 one. Had a crack that I had sealed. Result: 10 sec delay remains.
Step 5: Measured pressure with mechanical gauge at same point as the dashboard sender. Result: Pressure read exactly same as dashboard gauge. 10 sec delay remains.
Step 6: Inspected sump area again. (PCA advice about potentially leaking suction pipe, etc) Result: Pipes all intact, seals good. No debris.
Step 7: Inspected oil pump internals. Result: Slight scoring on left side of housing. See pic. Gears fine, hex shaft fine. Axle fits feel fine.
Step 8: Inspected scavenge pump on right side head. Result: Spotlessly clean, spins tight and smooth.
Step 9: New oil (Amsoil 5/40) and Bosch spin on filter (LN Adapter has been in place all along). Result: Problem fixed. Pressure builds immediately to 4.8 at cold start, responsive to RPM, hot idle = 1.3
Step 10: Cut old filter apart. Result: Looks perfect. No particles, seal intact, no debris. See pic.

Conclusion: Something about that filter was causing a 10 sec delay in pressure, and a RPM pull down when the pressure finally built? Why? How?

Also: Since the oil relief function is a separate spring and piston, I don't think it really matters if the filter has a relief or not. If it doesn't, the external relief provides the function and pressure will be limited to the spring preload force. If the filter does have one, the pressure will be limited to whichever comes first, the external spring or the filter's internal spring. Either way the function is provided and any filter is going to have a relief pressure set point that is adequately high.
My cut-open Bosch filter does not have a relief function. I do note that the media pack is separate from the steel end cap on the entry end of the filter. I'm assuming this is normal since there is no glue on that end, and on the bottom of the filter there is a big-*** leaf spring pressing everything together.
The anti drainback seal (red) looks fine. No debris, no apparent damage, still flexible.



Sorry about the big pic. Not sure how to manage the image size here.
Separate question: Any engine rebuilders out there that could give an opinion about this oil pump housing wear? The scratches are 1 to 2 thou deep in my opinion. They look bad, but can just feel them with a fingernail. What are the horizontal witness marks from? Does this indicate a need to replace $$ the oil pump housing? If so, can you point me to any instruction write-ups?



Guys, thanks a ton for your expertise. I have not found an answer to the pressure build delay and I think the community needs one. They made a lot of these engines. There is no way this is a unique failure mode.
I'm glad the car is back to normal, but Why, why why?

Jim in Green Bay.

 

You had a restriction in that filter somewhere. Cut the end caps off and spread out the pleats to see what you find in there. Good news that the fix was simple even though the diagnostic process was not quite as simple.