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And I'm happy to report, that I am now a Porsche owner.
My 3 yo son rode in the back for the 2 hour drive home. He loved it. Especially the tiny window I can open right by him. I never knew about those until now.
The back seat isn't ideal for him. He's basically sitting straight up in the car seat, and it makes the seat in front of him almost unusable. So the debate over selling and getting a Coupe will continue. But for now, we can swing the short weekend trips I usually take him on.
But I haven't had luck finding a good writeup on doing the work. There's a lot of recommendations for specialty shops that will do it for half or less a new cylinder costs. But I'm willing to give the DIY route a shot first.
On to the engine. I noticed the typical seepage from the engine/transmission connection from the RMS. The IMS bearing was a line item in the swap paperwork, but no RMS. Seems silly that an import shop would miss the most common issue on these cars. I'll put one on order.
In addition, I saw some oil on the valve covers. First thought (being a Miata guy) is valve cover gasket. Some searching actually pointed to the Camshaft Adjuster Solenoid seals. Put on the order list. I throw the plugs and plug tubes in there as well.
Coolant piping seemed generally ok, but showing some age. Drivers size where it comes up to the rad I noticed it was a bit sticky. Ideally would like to just go ahead and do all the coolant lines at once. Maybe the rads too? Will look into this more.
Finally, after the long drive home (filled with many visits to the 7k rev mark), I noticed the oil pressure is a bit low. Like under 1 bar at idle with the oil light occasionally turning on. I found the spec for 3 bar at 5k. Will check that tomorrow. Saw a nice youtube showing the inaccuracy of the instrument gauge. Still not feeling super great that I missed this in the checkout of the car. Any tips on how to debug and confirm. The easy/cheap possibility is the bypass oring. Will include that in the next oil change. Prices go up from there with sender units, oil pump (oh no) etc. Based on how it runs, I'm feeling its not a core issue.
And I'm happy to report, that I am now a Porsche owner.
My 3 yo son rode in the back for the 2 hour drive home. He loved it. Especially the tiny window I can open right by him. I never knew about those until now.
The back seat isn't ideal for him. He's basically sitting straight up in the car seat, and it makes the seat in front of him almost unusable. So the debate over selling and getting a Coupe will continue. But for now, we can swing the short weekend trips I usually take him on.
Edit (sp)
Congrats! I've used this "Rider Vest" with my daughter since she was 4 yrs old. She's almost 7 now and tall enough where just the booster seat is needed. The vest worked great with the booster and takes up no space in the back seat. I'll be putting it up on the Marketplace probably since I no longer need it. https://ridesafertravelvest.com/
Finally, after the long drive home (filled with many visits to the 7k rev mark), I noticed the oil pressure is a bit low. Like under 1 bar at idle with the oil light occasionally turning on. I found the spec for 3 bar at 5k. Will check that tomorrow. Saw a nice youtube showing the inaccuracy of the instrument gauge. Still not feeling super great that I missed this in the checkout of the car. Any tips on how to debug and confirm. The easy/cheap possibility is the bypass oring. Will include that in the next oil change. Prices go up from there with sender units, oil pump (oh no) etc..
Replace the oil pump relief spring and valve, it is located on the bottom of the oil pump above the 17mm plug. Easy to get to, can change it in 10min... No need to drain the oil, but about .5 quarts will come out when you take the plug out..If the spring is weak or broken the oil pressure will be low at hot idle, the is an updated part number for the valve also..
Around 1 bar at idle when hot is fairly normal, at least for my car. Is the level in the middle of the safe range on the dip stick when hot? If u think its a real issue i would bump the oil weight up a hair and pull the pan cover and verify the screens r clean.
I say this to every new owner, and it goes triple for TX 996 cars. First job, remove your front bumper, clean the hell out of the rads and AC condensers, and while it's apart, install the center 3rd rad kit. Along with the 160F thermostat, this will do more for everything on your car than any other job. Better oil pressure at idle, and running. Better fuel econ, better AC operation, helps everything in the engine.
Your leaks are more likely from the spark plug well seals. Use flashlight and look carefully. The heat from the exh is rough on them. If/when you do the relief spring, get the LN full flow oil filter adapter. These cars NEED plenty of cool, fresh, clean oil - make sure it gets it for long engine life.
Since you are in Dallas you can buy parts from Roger at 928sRUS.com. He sells everything for 996 and his prices are better than any other source. Tell him Doc sent you and I get a cold beer on my next trip.
I don't know on the cab hyd cylinder job, but take your time, and don't chip the shaft when you are in there with tools. The shaft may look hard, but it usually isn't.
Replace the oil pump relief spring and valve, it is located on the bottom of the oil pump above the 17mm plug. Easy to get to, can change it in 10min... No need to drain the oil, but about .5 quarts will come out when you take the plug out..If the spring is weak or broken the oil pressure will be low at hot idle, the is an updated part number for the valve also..
Added to the order list, thanks!
Originally Posted by De Jeeper
Around 1 bar at idle when hot is fairly normal, at least for my car. Is the level in the middle of the safe range on the dip stick when hot? If u think its a real issue i would bump the oil weight up a hair and pull the pan cover and verify the screens r clean.
Level was low when I got the car, but I've since filled it up to the top of the safe range (reads the same when hot and cold) and still get ~0.5 bar at idle when hot. Thinking I'll likely go 5W-40 for the next oil change. Gets pretty warm here in Dallas, so I could probably use it.
Originally Posted by docmirror
I say this to every new owner, and it goes triple for TX 996 cars. First job, remove your front bumper, clean the hell out of the rads and AC condensers, and while it's apart, install the center 3rd rad kit. Along with the 160F thermostat, this will do more for everything on your car than any other job. Better oil pressure at idle, and running. Better fuel econ, better AC operation, helps everything in the engine.
Your leaks are more likely from the spark plug well seals. Use flashlight and look carefully. The heat from the exh is rough on them. If/when you do the relief spring, get the LN full flow oil filter adapter. These cars NEED plenty of cool, fresh, clean oil - make sure it gets it for long engine life.
Since you are in Dallas you can buy parts from Roger at 928sRUS.com. He sells everything for 996 and his prices are better than any other source. Tell him Doc sent you and I get a cold beer on my next trip.
I don't know on the cab hyd cylinder job, but take your time, and don't chip the shaft when you are in there with tools. The shaft may look hard, but it usually isn't.
Got pulling the bumper off on the to-do list. I might hold off on the center rad and LN adapter since they're not too hard to add. See if I'm going to have this as a keeper first. Will do the low thermostat at the same time.
Definitely going to do the well seals and plugs as well. Can't tell if the cam cover is leaking too, but I'll start with those. Definitely one of the cam adjuster seals is leaking. Other one is good.
Hoping to take a look in the cylinder from the top with the plugs off and from the bottom when dropping the pan to get a feel for the current state of the motor. Driving for the past few hundred miles has been really solid.
Have already reached out to Roger (thanks for the tip!), will be sending him my order list soon. It's great to have a local source. I'll likely be tearing this thing down to do the RMS and IMS flange seals (hopefully it's a dual row) while my dad is in town in March. In case it's a single row, I'll probably go with the LN ceramic bearing retrofit. Roger said he can usually get it in 24 hours if it's not in stock already.
Much cheaper than new or rebuilt and really not too bad as a DIY. Forgot to put the potentiometer back on which threw my for a short loop, but I figured it out pretty quick. Got familiar with all the microswitches that can fail and cause different top behaviors. Only rebuilt the left side as the right was replaced with the new one 2 years (5k miles) ago. Didn't want to risk nicking the cylinder.
Pulled the air filter and cleaned up the butterfly valve as well. Will clean up the rest as shown in this article when I tear things down later in March for more serious service: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/C...ttle_Body.html
Cheapest I could find at ~$100. People on ebay want ridiculous prices for used Porsche tips.
Also, found out it's not a factory Aero kit car - just has the wing. Should have been obvious from the regular sideskirts. Was part of the exclusive-programme tho:
Got the car seats to fit by pulling the top cushions! Kids love it. Had to take them to school today cause they wanted to ride in the racecar.
Got the bumper off and cleaned the radiators - an impressive amount of junk in there.
One small trim piece was missing on the bumper 996-505-526-00-01C-M100), plan to get it replaced. Otherwise things look really clean for a 19 year old car.
Checked the AOS by pulling the oil cap at hot idle, very minor change in RPM (<100) which went away immediately when putting it back on. I think I'll hold off making a cap manometer for now.
Putting together a big order list for dropping the transmission to replace the RMS. Depending on the bearing (single/double) since I'm in the unknown year, might replace it or I might leave it. If it's leaking though, I'd like to address that. Can I just replace the seal with 996.105.112.01? I know I'll need the tools to lock the cams as to not bump the timing when pulling the flange. But I don't know if I'd need to get a new flange for the new seal.
I see and oring type seal
999-0707-392-40 Rubber O ring
and a ribbed seal:
996-105-112-01 Rubber gasket
If the old style flange can only take the o-ring type seal which is known to leak, then instead of dumping $150 on a flange, I might just do the ~$650 for a LN dual row retrofit. If it's a single row, I'll be doing the retrofit regardless.
Welcome to the club. You can put something behind the lower seat back of the car seats to create more of an incline for your kids. I usually keep the kid's go bag there. The front seat will still be generally on usable. For unavoidable situations, you can raise the the front seat height to make the most of the space.
Got the bumper off and cleaned the radiators - an impressive amount of junk in there.
I see and oring type seal
999-0707-392-40 Rubber O ring
and a ribbed seal:
996-105-112-01 Rubber gasket
If the old style flange can only take the o-ring type seal which is known to leak, then instead of dumping $150 on a flange, I might just do the ~$650 for a LN dual row retrofit. If it's a single row, I'll be doing the retrofit regardless.
Yup, we've all been there. Now is the time for the center rad and 160F t-stat. You'll be sorry if you don't do it now. Try Roger at 928srus.com. He has good prices, and can get you everything for a 996. He's in Double Oak. Right up the street from Dallas. Good initial work.
Roger has a buddy in town that has the cam lock tools, and the IMSB tools. He let me borrow them, and I gave him a case of beer.
02-13-2019, 08:30 PM
2000 6MT Aero Cab
