When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've driven the car the last two days. And by driven; I mean, like I stole it. And in reality, I may have.
A few minor issues are becoming evident. Routing the plumbing for the catch can is the primary, minor, task on my agenda. Another is the navigator's side window. It often does not retract properly to allow opening and closing the door. I have to mess with the switch to lower it a little. Still not acclimated enough to remember - each time - where to insert the key; and that all the window switches are in the center console. More seat time needed.
I've started a routine of checking the oil level on the dash before each engine start-up. I get a little excited when the level inexplicably climbs up one or two bars. My mind instantly thinks coolant. The second part of the routine is to check the coolant level before and after each trip. Haven't seen anything serious enough to throw the red flag just yet...
Staying the conservative course and trying to remain vigilant. Still have the check of the plugs, and the bore scoping on the schedule at the next oil change. Figure if all goes well it will be in about 1000 miles. Got a special delivery a coupe of days ago. I actually had to sign for it. After all it came from Istanbul, Turkey.
I can't stand the little tubes of chemicals that are good for one or two jobs. I think this will be enough to get me through.
Get me through, a few hundred sump plates...
Speedy gets spot #1, for the time being. Hope it holds for a while. With a couple of our other dirty cars.
This is my biggest concern right now. I read that a proper cooling system pressure test should be performed at 18 psi - I tested at 15. The level does seem to be falling slightly. The bore scoping, plug inspection and oil analysis should tell more.
You will quickly learn to hate that giant tube of loctite. I bought a similar one and the force required to dispense from a typical caulk gun is nuts. I ended up cutting the tube open and spooning it into small 5ml syringes to apply. Much easier.
I think that electronic oil level is not terribly accurate. It’s too dependent on the length of time the oil has had to drain back to the sump. I guess the same can be said of the dipstick, come to think of it ...just try to be consistent as far as time since parked when checking.
You will quickly learn to hate that giant tube of loctite. I bought a similar one and the force required to dispense from a typical caulk gun is nuts. I ended up cutting the tube open and spooning it into small 5ml syringes to apply. Much easier.
I think that electronic oil level is not terribly accurate. It’s too dependent on the length of time the oil has had to drain back to the sump. I guess the same can be said of the dipstick, come to think of it ...just try to be consistent as far as time since parked when checking.
So maybe the hydraulic press will be better for dispensing than a caulk gun? Another adventure.
The first oil check takes place in the morning after sitting overnight on my garage floor. The second is usually in the afternoon after sitting for about eight hours. For some reason I've seen three different levels in the past two days. I did check the dipstick a little while ago. It's just above the middle of the acceptable range. I have also suspected the gauge is not 100% accurate. More data will tell if a trend exists.
Buoyed by the potentially good news from Brother Bill - I'll update a little on my custom AOS.
Still not as good as it can be; but closer. Went with 3/8" fuel line and some brass fittings. Would prefer aluminum or even plastic fittings. Mounted the can on a slim piece of foam rubber to keep it from clanging around at the bottom. It's a little tidier and it no longer vents into the engine compartment.
The brass fittings are overkill, but it's a bit of an improvement as far as packaging. The outlet from the catch can is the same fuel hose, but it runs along the rear of the air box and then goes forward, around it, to an opening between the engine and a coolant hose. The exit can be seen below just to the left of the hose clamp. I may just put a nipple in the side of the air box near the base of the snorkel. That would be even more tidy and should be better for cleaning fumes from the crankcase (certainly would have plenty of time under vacuum vs always at atmospheric pressure.).
Did you cut off the fitting of the AOS line that attaches to the throttle body? Are you going to change your AOS eventually or is this a permanent fix?
Why not vent right to the oil fill tube (cap) with your spare?
Did you cut off the fitting of the AOS line that attaches to the throttle body? Are you going to change your AOS eventually or is this a permanent fix?
Why not vent right to the oil fill tube (cap) with your spare?
The AOS line has a segment cut out of it. You may not have the same design as my 01. Forgive me for not recalling your model year and its configuration. I kept the fitting, because it has a Y connector, with the other side coming from the fuel vapor vent line.
I have not decided if I will replace the AOS even when I do end up dropping the engine. I certainly would not call this a permanent fix, as it is now. If I do decide to stay with something like this, the first thing would be to optimize the fittings - brass is too heavy and not as efficient as other materials would be. Further more, and to effectively answer your last question - I am thinking that a nipple at the far right side of the air box would be best for the outlet side of the catch can. My thought is that any vapors that cool enough to condense, would drop through the holes at the bottom of the air box. Alternatively, when enough vacuum is present to pull the fumes into the intake of the engine it would more closely duplicate the original configuration (i.e. some vacuum; though not at the same level as at the plenum).
The problem with venting to the test fitting on the oil fill cap is that the system is more closed. It would be like trying to drain a bucket of water with a hose that returns back to the bucket.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 04-12-2019 at 08:32 AM.
After the magnificent redesign of my catch can plumbing, I drove to work today. Smelled oil when I got to work. Figured it was just the vent off-gassing out the rear. Checked level electronically before heading home. It was about two bars above the lower level. This is about two below what I have been observing this week. This is actually the first time I've driven the car for five consecutive days. I have to tell you, "it's been a gas".
Got home and discovered a lot of oil draining from under the car. Dipstick was at the low level. It looked as though everything was draining out from the left side of the engine - maybe in the area of the AOS. The rear fascia is covered in oil film.
The oil dry pile was from a few days ago and it is located under where the RMS would be located.
So the big difference from yesterday and today is going with more restrictive fittings and smaller diameter hose. I'm going to speculate that the crankcase was seeing more positive pressure and forced oil out the RMS. After moving the car, the drip became much more localized to the area of the RMS. Will put the car on the lift this weekend and see if I can get a better idea if this is more AOS shenanigans (which it is, anyway) or if the restriction theory will be proven.
Working off that theory, I restored the original hose and gave it a more efficient fitting into the catch can. Also put a fitting into the air box snorkel. I think this will help pull fumes when the engine is under vacuum, as opposed to allowing pressure to force oil past the crank seal.
The good news is that, the coolant level seems to have stabilized at a level just below the part number marking on the tank. Might be time to drain the oil and have a look inside.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 04-12-2019 at 09:15 PM.
The big oil spot on the concrete looks pretty good to me , I mean it doesn't look like intermix !! lol
There are "paper towel dot" tests to see if coolant is in the oil, there are also "chem-strips" that turn colors if coolant is present. FWIW..
I'll investigate. Thanks for the tip, Doc.
Funny how things turn 180 degrees. The most recent fear has been coolant. Now it's oil. Any thoughts on my theory that crankcase pressure was the culprit, vs a totally wasted rear main seal? Then there's still the outside chance the AOS is blowing-out oil...
Funny how things turn 180 degrees. The most recent fear has been coolant. Now it's oil. Any thoughts on my theory that crankcase pressure was the culprit, vs a totally wasted rear main seal? Then there's still the outside chance the AOS is blowing-out oil...
Yea, I think your catch can set-up is restricting the crankcase vent . You need to maximize the hose/fitting ID and never use a hose or fitting that is smaller than the ID of the TB port if you can help it.
I noticed on one of your pictures using the manometer (with AOS dissabled and vented) you still had @ 3-4 inches of water, positive pressure, with proper venting crankcase, there should be no positive pressure, test again without restrictive hose/fitting see if positive pressure goes to zero.
Yea, I think your catch can set-up is restricting the crankcase vent . You need to maximize the hose/fitting ID and never use a hose or fitting that is smaller than the ID of the TB port if you can help it.
I noticed on one of your pictures using the manometer (with AOS dissabled and vented) you still had @ 3-4 inches of water, positive pressure, with proper venting crankcase, there should be no positive pressure, test again without restrictive hose/fitting see if positive pressure goes to zero.
Good eye. I suspect the hose on the manometer was on the wrong nipple. I'll check again. Maybe even check the instructions...
I noticed on one of your pictures using the manometer (with AOS dissabled and vented) you still had @ 3-4 inches of water, positive pressure, with proper venting crankcase, there should be no positive pressure, test again without restrictive hose/fitting see if positive pressure goes to zero.
Alright, I messed with the manometer yesterday. I sucked and blew on the two nipples. Not as rewarding as that may sound, but I did learn which one is the proper input side. I didn't get the car up to operating temperature, but I did check to verify I was getting a slight amount of vacuum. There was a little fluctuation around -3 inH2O.
I had to go back to my original larger diameter vent hose. A few posts up, there's a photo of the new setup which includes the outlet of the catch can into the air box. This should be better than the restrictive configuration I thought was a cleaner installation. Need to get the car on the lift and see where all this oil is coming from...
Clearly this is not all coming from the RMS. I suspect there was a blowout in the AOS that is allowing oil to pass. If I can see what's happening, I can make a call on how much tear-down will be needed. If I get really lucky, maybe just a good cleaning and an oil change will get me by until I get around to dropping the engine. Still have to check off the items on my oil change list:
a) Drain oil and collect sample (send sample in for analysis).
b) Drop sump plate and inspect for debris.
c) Remove oil filter, cut open and inspect.
d) Remove and inspect spark plugs.
e) Scope both sides of the pistons (within reason).
f) Determine if it can go back together, or if the engine needs to be dropped. If all seems OK, go to g, otherwise go to z.
g) Reinstall sump plate with magnetic drain plug.
h) New oil filter and oil.
i) Drive it.
z) drop the engine - buy a bunch of parts...
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 04-16-2019 at 10:49 AM.
Oh and I have looked at early photos and feel good that the coolant level does indeed equalize just below the part number on the coolant bottle. This gives me some confidence that I am not losing coolant. High probability I will replace the bottle when the engine gets dropped. Add to that a new AOS, chain guides, tensioners, RMS and any other thing I encounter...
A couple of minor mysteries. Not sure if this cap is even from the car. Haven't found a mating hole for it. Any thoughts?
Haven't had a chance to investigate this either. It's a wire under the driver's seat with exposed copper. My suspicion is that it may be related to the passenger side window. I experienced window movement any time I messed with the controls on the driver's seat. Maybe the seat movement allowed the wire to ground against the seat runner. Any insider information on this theory? I did cap off the bare wire in the meantime.
04-09-2019, 08:28 PM
...just try to be consistent as far as time since parked when checking.
, I mean it doesn't look like intermix !! lol
