125,000 mile "tune up"
#1
Just a car guy
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125,000 mile "tune up"
Haven't even had a chance to get a good look at the car. Will get it on the lift today.
Decided to start collecting parts...
Here's what I ordered today:
10 ! Bosch spark plugs (10 were cheaper than 6)
6 Delphi coils
Contitech belt drive component kit
Gates water pump
Remy rebuilt alternator
Rein thermostat (includes housing and gasket)
2 Rein engine mounts
2 Mahle oil filters
Hastings air filter
Mahle fuel filter
6 liters of Liqui Moly 75W-90 gear lube
10 liters Liqui Moly 5W-40 engine oil
3 gallons of Zerex G-40 anti-freeze
Car is a 2001 C4
What am I missing?
Expect the list to grow as I get a good look at suspension, brakes, drivetrain and steering.
Have an ignition switch to install.
Had no front parking lights last night - possible ignition switch issue?
Don't know if the cruise is working. Got the little green indicator to come on - but couldn't get it to engage. Any ideas? Don't have an owner's manual yet. May not have found the secret, though I pushed, pulled and pressed pretty much every possible way.
Decided to start collecting parts...
Here's what I ordered today:
10 ! Bosch spark plugs (10 were cheaper than 6)
6 Delphi coils
Contitech belt drive component kit
Gates water pump
Remy rebuilt alternator
Rein thermostat (includes housing and gasket)
2 Rein engine mounts
2 Mahle oil filters
Hastings air filter
Mahle fuel filter
6 liters of Liqui Moly 75W-90 gear lube
10 liters Liqui Moly 5W-40 engine oil
3 gallons of Zerex G-40 anti-freeze
Car is a 2001 C4
What am I missing?
Expect the list to grow as I get a good look at suspension, brakes, drivetrain and steering.
Have an ignition switch to install.
Had no front parking lights last night - possible ignition switch issue?
Don't know if the cruise is working. Got the little green indicator to come on - but couldn't get it to engage. Any ideas? Don't have an owner's manual yet. May not have found the secret, though I pushed, pulled and pressed pretty much every possible way.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 01-25-2019 at 07:12 PM. Reason: I suck at the spelling
#2
Race Director
Saw your post in OT that you recently purchased a 996C4. Your list above sounds like a great place to start. Have you driven the C4 yet? Are you going to rally it? Lots of good info on this site.
#3
Just a car guy
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Have not decided on rallying it. High likelihood of TSD rallies, definitely not stage rally. May use it occasionally for RallyCross. Will want to increase ride height a little first, and find suitable wheels and tires. I think I can fit 17" wheels - don't even know for sure. If I could fit 16s, it would be very cool.
I'm counting on the good information.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 01-30-2019 at 01:25 PM.
#4
That is exactly what I did when I bought the car last May (filters, liquids and plugs)
I have only pending the water pump and serpentine belt.
Are you going to flush all the coolant or only the amount needed for the water pump replacement?
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
I have also read about people recomending to change MAF sensor and Lambda sensors (pre and post) but I am not going to do it by now, as the car runs quite smooth and has only 50K Miles
ps: the brand is Liqui Moly
I have only pending the water pump and serpentine belt.
Are you going to flush all the coolant or only the amount needed for the water pump replacement?
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
I have also read about people recomending to change MAF sensor and Lambda sensors (pre and post) but I am not going to do it by now, as the car runs quite smooth and has only 50K Miles
ps: the brand is Liqui Moly
#6
RL Community Team
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The water pump is not a bad job if you can move the engine mount plate enough to get the water pump out.
I had to remove my cats in order to remove the plate so I could get the pump out.
That added a lot of extra time to the job.
The belt is simple.
I bought 2 gallons of Porsche concentrate.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...05-75-M100.htm
I mixed them with RO water in a 5 gallon bucket and used an OEMtools Coolant refill kit that uses vacuum similar to an UView Airlift but cheaper.
Luckily I had an extra pre-mixed 1 gallon of Porsche coolant from when I installed my center radiator.
At $40 a gallon, it's a bit expensive to replace all the coolant, but when compared to replacing an engine due to cooling issues, it's chump change!
I had to remove my cats in order to remove the plate so I could get the pump out.
That added a lot of extra time to the job.
The belt is simple.
Are you going to flush all the coolant or only the amount needed for the water pump replacement?
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...05-75-M100.htm
I mixed them with RO water in a 5 gallon bucket and used an OEMtools Coolant refill kit that uses vacuum similar to an UView Airlift but cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24444-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01BW39HJS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548449742&sr=8-3
I used all of the 4 gallons.Luckily I had an extra pre-mixed 1 gallon of Porsche coolant from when I installed my center radiator.
At $40 a gallon, it's a bit expensive to replace all the coolant, but when compared to replacing an engine due to cooling issues, it's chump change!
#7
Racer
I typically drive a car about 3-6 months before fully investing into a overhaul tuneup. I need to make sure that the car is in good shape before investing into it. I do it incrementally, simple things, then grow my list over time as the car earns my trust.
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#8
Rennlist Member
If your replacing the tstat and pump, I’d def add to the list:
-coolant flush (and replacement)
-check rubber hoses and replace as needed
-new coolant tank and cap
nothing more frustrating than replacing cooling parts and then have other bits fail and having to start over (draining coolant, fill, bleed, etc).
-coolant flush (and replacement)
-check rubber hoses and replace as needed
-new coolant tank and cap
nothing more frustrating than replacing cooling parts and then have other bits fail and having to start over (draining coolant, fill, bleed, etc).
#9
Burning Brakes
Most Gates water pumps have a metal impeller. Plastic/composite is suggested. The clearance between the pump and the block is minimal. If the metal impeller water pump fails the impeller can grind a hole thru the block. The plastic impeller versions will break up instead of damaging the engine. The factory pump is a plastic impeller. Just a thought.
#10
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#13
Burning Brakes
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#14
Just a car guy
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That is exactly what I did when I bought the car last May (filters, liquids and plugs)
I have only pending the water pump and serpentine belt.
Are you going to flush all the coolant or only the amount needed for the water pump replacement?
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
I have also read about people recomending to change MAF sensor and Lambda sensors (pre and post) but I am not going to do it by now, as the car runs quite smooth and has only 50K Miles
ps: the brand is Liqui Moly
I have only pending the water pump and serpentine belt.
Are you going to flush all the coolant or only the amount needed for the water pump replacement?
I am going to do water pump next month, and even the coolant is supposed to be "lifetime" and my indy also indicates going only for the amount needed, I will request to flush everything.
I have also read about people recomending to change MAF sensor and Lambda sensors (pre and post) but I am not going to do it by now, as the car runs quite smooth and has only 50K Miles
ps: the brand is Liqui Moly
No, really.
Full flush. Lifetime should be fine if you check it periodically. I'm just going to start fresh. 50/50 Zerex and distilled water.
I've seen mention of the MAF sensor, will keep it in mind. Right - O2 sensors are a good idea. I got the CEL after getting home. Might be a two-trip MIL. Usually an air/fuel code. Will check codes as I go.
If your replacing the tstat and pump, I’d def add to the list:
-coolant flush (and replacement)
-check rubber hoses and replace as needed
-new coolant tank and cap
nothing more frustrating than replacing cooling parts and then have other bits fail and having to start over (draining coolant, fill, bleed, etc).
-coolant flush (and replacement)
-check rubber hoses and replace as needed
-new coolant tank and cap
nothing more frustrating than replacing cooling parts and then have other bits fail and having to start over (draining coolant, fill, bleed, etc).
Most Gates water pumps have a metal impeller. Plastic/composite is suggested. The clearance between the pump and the block is minimal. If the metal impeller water pump fails the impeller can grind a hole thru the block. The plastic impeller versions will break up instead of damaging the engine. The factory pump is a plastic impeller. Just a thought.
Thanks for all the feedback, guys.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 01-30-2019 at 01:30 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
I say this respectfully, cheap parts are fine on a honda or chevrolet. European cars are much more **** about parts put on them. But too each his own.