Is this cyl #6 wrist pin clip seated correctly?
01-03-2019, 02:24 AM
#31
Check out this vid , shows the clips being installed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=WXon_11StI0&feature=share
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=WXon_11StI0&feature=share
01-03-2019, 12:19 PM
#32
Former Vendor
Good job helping the OP on this one! That first pic in the original post is a poster child for what is NOT correct!
We spend a ton of time on this in the hands on M96 rebuild class- for good reason. Glad to see at least 3 of my “students” jumped in to assist on this one.
I plan to do a Rennvision youtube channel video on this topic in the next few weeks.
The key to this is to practice the clip insertion on an unassembled 4-6 block half on the bench before trying it on the engine. Once you master that, then move on. Not before.
I did develop a way to install these pistons differently, but its no simpler for the first timer than doing it the conventional way. Another key is the Faultless wrist pin tool, as it omits 3 of the disciplines that causes people the biggest issues.
We spend a ton of time on this in the hands on M96 rebuild class- for good reason. Glad to see at least 3 of my “students” jumped in to assist on this one.
I plan to do a Rennvision youtube channel video on this topic in the next few weeks.
The key to this is to practice the clip insertion on an unassembled 4-6 block half on the bench before trying it on the engine. Once you master that, then move on. Not before.
I did develop a way to install these pistons differently, but its no simpler for the first timer than doing it the conventional way. Another key is the Faultless wrist pin tool, as it omits 3 of the disciplines that causes people the biggest issues.
01-03-2019, 02:42 PM
#33
So glad I was able to learn from the "Master" in person and learn all those great tips/tricks in the engine rebuild class. You just can't get those from watching a video.
When I rebuilt my engine a year after the rebuild class, I didn't even need to practice, got the 3 clips all in one-shot.
When I rebuilt my engine a year after the rebuild class, I didn't even need to practice, got the 3 clips all in one-shot.
01-03-2019, 03:05 PM
#34
Former Vendor
So glad I was able to learn from the "Master" in person and learn all those great tips/tricks in the engine rebuild class. You just can't get those from watching a video.
When I rebuilt my engine a year after the rebuild class, I didn't even need to practice, got the 3 clips all in one-shot.
When I rebuilt my engine a year after the rebuild class, I didn't even need to practice, got the 3 clips all in one-shot.
01-03-2019, 03:26 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Two HUGE assets to this community!
Thank you both.
Thank you both.
01-03-2019, 04:40 PM
#36
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
My buddy figured out a way and built the tools to install the pistons onto the con rods first and then slide the case half over the pistons (sort of like they do for regular engines). I think it's way "safer" to install the pins and the circlips first and then slide the case half over it than to do it the Porsche way and insert them though the block. The tools that he built are not much more than an off the shelf ring compressor, some metal shims made into cylinders and some big zip ties. Took a couple of tries to figure out the proper procedure and to tweak the shims but at the end it worked really well. This engine has been running since the assembly and has already has a couple thousand Kms on it so this procedure is a good one. I really feel that the Porsche procedure is a flawed one. Just by looking at how easy it is to make a huge mistake in the beginning of this post is a proof for that. I'll be using the same tools and process in the next few weeks when I finally restart the re-assembly of my engine. I'll post pics of the tools and how to make then and what it takes to do it "the other way" in my engine repair thread that has been dormant for a few years.
01-03-2019, 04:53 PM
#37
Former Vendor
My buddy figured out a way and built the tools to install the pistons onto the con rods first and then slide the case half over the pistons (sort of like they do for regular engines). I think it's way "safer" to install the pins and the circlips first and then slide the case half over it than to do it the Porsche way and insert them though the block. The tools that he built are not much more than an off the shelf ring compressor, some metal shims made into cylinders and some big zip ties. Took a couple of tries to figure out the proper procedure and to tweak the shims but at the end it worked really well. This engine has been running since the assembly and has already has a couple thousand Kms on it so this procedure is a good one. I really feel that the Porsche procedure is a flawed one. Just by looking at how easy it is to make a huge mistake in the beginning of this post is a proof for that. I'll be using the same tools and process in the next few weeks when I finally restart the re-assembly of my engine. I'll post pics of the tools and how to make then and what it takes to do it "the other way" in my engine repair thread that has been dormant for a few years.
The only negative aspect of this is I don't like the feel of the assembly when the block half goes over the ring pack. It makes it very difficult to feel if a ring has become caught, or has broken due to that. Improvising "other ways" is the fun part...
01-03-2019, 05:07 PM
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Good job helping the OP on this one! That first pic in the original post is a poster child for what is NOT correct!
We spend a ton of time on this in the hands on M96 rebuild class- for good reason. Glad to see at least 3 of my “students” jumped in to assist on this one.
We spend a ton of time on this in the hands on M96 rebuild class- for good reason. Glad to see at least 3 of my “students” jumped in to assist on this one.
Hi Jake/Jud! I'm the OP and a former student (March 2018). I remember clearly the 3-4 hours our group spent on installing the wrist pin clips. I may be a little rusty, given that it's been a full 9 months since class, but the fundamentals are still very clear in my mind. I'm going to give it another go as soon as Charles sends me new clips (they're in the mail as of today). Thanks for coming into this thread and providing assistance.
01-04-2019, 02:54 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
For me I find that "free handing" the installation of the pin clips is the best way. Especially when using the factory clips with the "tang" on them. The various combinations of guide plates and clip tube stop sleeves for each bore size 85.5mm 93mm 96mm 99mm 101mm all take a different combination of guide plate and/or stop sleeves , orientation marks, and the wrong one will result in a failed attempt.
I simply use the clip tube and ejector rod and a "light feel" to find the outer of the piston, then find the clip bore, then rotate the tube to feel the tang align with the piston notch (if using factory clips ), then press hard against the piston and eject the clip.Works flawlessly for me. I find that all the orientation marks, guide plates, and stop sleeves, just desensitize from actually feeling the tools in the proper place.
I simply use the clip tube and ejector rod and a "light feel" to find the outer of the piston, then find the clip bore, then rotate the tube to feel the tang align with the piston notch (if using factory clips ), then press hard against the piston and eject the clip.Works flawlessly for me. I find that all the orientation marks, guide plates, and stop sleeves, just desensitize from actually feeling the tools in the proper place.
01-04-2019, 03:56 PM
#40
Former Vendor
For me I find that "free handing" the installation of the pin clips is the best way. Especially when using the factory clips with the "tang" on them. The various combinations of guide plates and clip tube stop sleeves for each bore size 85.5mm 93mm 96mm 99mm 101mm all take a different combination of guide plate and/or stop sleeves , orientation marks, and the wrong one will result in a failed attempt.
I simply use the clip tube and ejector rod and a "light feel" to find the outer of the piston, then find the clip bore, then rotate the tube to feel the tang align with the piston notch (if using factory clips ), then press hard against the piston and eject the clip.Works flawlessly for me. I find that all the orientation marks, guide plates, and stop sleeves, just desensitize from actually feeling the tools in the proper place.
I simply use the clip tube and ejector rod and a "light feel" to find the outer of the piston, then find the clip bore, then rotate the tube to feel the tang align with the piston notch (if using factory clips ), then press hard against the piston and eject the clip.Works flawlessly for me. I find that all the orientation marks, guide plates, and stop sleeves, just desensitize from actually feeling the tools in the proper place.
On the factory pistons with the indexing tang, we grind the tangs off.. The earliest of M96 engines never used them, and the pistons had no provision for them. They serve no purpose, except to complicate the procedure.