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anyone have a parts list for stuff to replace when doing cam guides?
Would it be easier to perform this job with the engine out of the car? I'll likely tackle it over the winter so it would be no problem to drop the engine on a table and go to town
Definitely easier with the engine out! Seeing as you've got to remove the cam covers, spark plug tubes? (you don't mention whether it's a 5 or 3 chain engine - the 3 chain engines don't have the removable tubes). It looks like you've got everything else covered regarding cams. Of course there's always the other ancillaries - Water Pump, AOS, Oil Cooler (or at least O rings on it), Oil pump bypass spring/piston, Clutch/Flywheel, Injectors, etc...
Definitely easier with the engine out! Seeing as you've got to remove the cam covers, spark plug tubes? (you don't mention whether it's a 5 or 3 chain engine - the 3 chain engines don't have the removable tubes). It looks like you've got everything else covered regarding cams. Of course there's always the other ancillaries - Water Pump, AOS, Oil Cooler (or at least O rings on it), Oil pump bypass spring/piston, Clutch/Flywheel, Injectors, etc...
How can I distinguish if its a 5 chain or 3 chain motor? My car is a '99 and when I did plugs and coil packs, the tubes were dry but seemed removeable.
If I were to drop the motor, of course the Water pump, coolant reservoir, and a ton of other items would be looked at. Figure i'd upgrade to a center radiator also, etc.
Drove the car to work today, oil pressure is fine, temperature is fine, drives awesome. Didnt ring it out as i'm hesitant to reach the cam crossover point though lol
My plan is to have a local shop perform a compression/leakdown test that way I can confirm the condition of the motor and go from there. I figure within the next month I'll motivate to get dropped off.
How can I distinguish if its a 5 chain or 3 chain motor? My car is a '99 and when I did plugs and coil packs, the tubes were dry but seemed removeable.
If I were to drop the motor, of course the Water pump, coolant reservoir, and a ton of other items would be looked at. Figure i'd upgrade to a center radiator also, etc.
Drove the car to work today, oil pressure is fine, temperature is fine, drives awesome. Didnt ring it out as i'm hesitant to reach the cam crossover point though lol
My plan is to have a local shop perform a compression/leakdown test that way I can confirm the condition of the motor and go from there. I figure within the next month I'll motivate to get dropped off.
I'll leave to the experts, but I think 99MY has five chains.
If you can, I'd see if the shop can scope the bores and hook-up a Durametric to get an idea how the engine is performing. Maybe this already happened? Even if it has, it's always good to have up to date data.
I'll leave to the experts, but I think 99MY has five chains.
If you can, I'd see if the shop can scope the bores and hook-up a Durametric to get an idea how the engine is performing. Maybe this already happened? Even if it has, it's always good to have up to date data.
Good tip on having the bores scoped! I figure the durametric hookup would be part of the compression inspection but i’ll make sure to note that when I have it inspected :-)
Good tip on having the bores scoped! I figure the durametric hookup would be part of the compression inspection but i’ll make sure to note that when I have it inspected :-)
LS swap would be pretty cool, I bet it would be a blast to drive.
I'M ALL OVER THE PLACE TODAY!!!
Doing some rough number crunching
LS Swap:
2004 GTO LS1 with accessories, harnes, ect, etc. $2k (found locally)
Stuttgart Muscle Swap Parts $2050
Labor for swap (quoted locally) $5K (Will go up at end of year)
Misc items $1k?
Total: ~$10,050
"Right now, I'm leaning LS1 swap. I'd be out (lets say) under $6K and have an easily rebuildable/moddable motor with more power than stock."
The #'s may look good, but they're not reality - any finished LS swap I've ever read about finishes out at $15k or more unless you're doing all the work yourself (not recommended unless you've got a very wide skill-set). Best of luck regardless of which way you go!
You should focus on getting the right (left) seat for your driving comfort before anything...Unless you just want to flip it when done?
I drive the car just fine as it sits, i'd just like to sit a little lower. Ultimately not a priority and it doesnt take away from my enjoyment of the car.
I drive the car just fine as it sits, i'd just like to sit a little lower. Ultimately not a priority and it doesnt take away from my enjoyment of the car.
I must have confused you with another member that had his head touching the roof.
08-27-2019, 03:40 PM
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