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Old 08-15-2018, 02:26 PM
  #31  
docmirror
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I did a lot of checking and a lot of questioning before I bought my car. Strangely enough, it was a local purchase of the exact features I wanted. Things I know:
1. There was a fire in the engine mfg plant in Stuttgart in fall 1999
2. The engines for the Boxter, 996 were moved to a new plant in late 99/early 2000.
3. The dual row IMSB has a lower failure rate than the later single row.
4. The early IMS shafts have a better NRRO value in most cases. (the shafts are straighter, more concentric about the rear journal for bearing)

Things I've read, and believe to be true;

There is a big long write-up on the difference in the water cooling circuit from the 3.4 to the 3.6 engine, which concludes that the hot spots in the upper deck are a function of the passages along the path of the water flow pressure circuit. It is an in-depth look at some of the factors contributing to head cracking, intermix, etc. I will not search for it, but a very good read for those contemplating reliability and the early v later engines.

There is also a difference in the mfg of the transmissions, but I don't recall either of them being more or less robust.

Things I liked about my 2/98 build date car; Gap seals were fantastic all around. Fitment of the hood, doors, engine cover were excellent. Two of the later cars I tested had worse alignments. Four spoke steering wheel. Lightweight wheels. Pre-PSM features(ABS, LSD, ABD). Light handling, nimble. cable operated frunk and engine cover.

Things I didn't care for; NO damn cupholders! Crappy audio controls, overblown sound adapation. CD trays were a joke. Poor sound insulation. Modest bump steer after ~60k miles(could be corrected I'm sure).

I would fancy a 100k miles early car over a mid-50k miles later car, provided the later car had the IMSB replaced. Also, the early high mileage car will be less expensive to buy, and maintain.
Old 08-15-2018, 03:01 PM
  #32  
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Traditionally there have been 2 guidelines for buying a Porsche:
  • buy the newest one you can afford.
  • avoid "first run" cars for a year or two, with brand new designs and architectures -- because all of the bugs have not yet been worked out.
It is very nice to hear that these principles don't apply to the early 996s.
Old 08-15-2018, 03:41 PM
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Vancouver996
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Originally Posted by billh1963
It's ok to love your 2003 996. No need to get your feathers ruffled.
i don’t own a 2003 , feathers are’t ruffled at all
I was making a point that apart from a dual row bearing ( that most likely had enough hours on it to warrant changing anyway ) the 99 lacks all the later improvements
Old 08-15-2018, 03:52 PM
  #34  
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intended usage matters too

even different tracks , on a short bump and grind like the streets of willow , assuming stock engines
I’d take the 99

on a track with long straights like big willoiw
the 3.4 runs out of breath well before the 3.6 does

for a city car not seeing any grand touring work, 99

driving 1000 mile days on less than perfect roads , a mk 2 every time

a car with highly modified suspension and lsd , the stiffer chassis is a good match
Old 08-15-2018, 03:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Vancouver996


i don’t own a 2003 , feathers are’t ruffled at all
I was making a point that apart from a dual row bearing ( that most likely had enough hours on it to warrant changing anyway ) the 99 lacks all the later improvements
Only thing I miss is a cupholder and glove compartment.
Old 08-15-2018, 05:20 PM
  #36  
Splitting Atoms
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Modest bump steer after ~60k miles(could be corrected I'm sure).
I noticed this on my car too (3/98 build). It became very evident on the track. Turned out my rear suspension components were worn out. The main culprit was the camber bolts which wouldn't stay torqued.
Old 08-15-2018, 05:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
Yep.. The cream puff with no miles is the car to be scared away from. It only makes sense to you and l based on what we’ve seen.
We are like Farmers insurance....." We know a thing or two, because we've seen a thing or two"....
Old 08-16-2018, 10:57 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Splitting Atoms
I noticed this on my car too (3/98 build). It became very evident on the track. Turned out my rear suspension components were worn out. The main culprit was the camber bolts which wouldn't stay torqued.
Did new eccentric bolts cure the issue or did you have to use locking plates?
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...t-for-996-997/
Old 08-16-2018, 07:22 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Vipertag313
Is this why that 99 w/ 28k miles just sold for $36k on bring-a-sled?
I saw that..I have a buzz on
Old 08-16-2018, 07:27 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Porschetech3
We are like Farmers insurance....." We know a thing or two, because we've seen a thing or two"....
Yeah...and now we have an oil temp gauge
Old 08-16-2018, 10:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mike_A
Yeah...and now we have an oil temp gauge
Yes !!! My most watched gauge ..
Old 08-17-2018, 04:39 PM
  #42  
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Some good info in thread. My '99 has 150,000 miles and still runs good! I have no idea about the engine internals but I highly doubt it has had any major overhaul work in the past. I hadn't really planned on buying a 911 when I got this one but it sounds like the 99 may be less likely to fall victim to some of the known issues.
Old 08-23-2018, 03:54 PM
  #43  
Cuda911
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I guess OP vanished? Yesterday a friend of mine told me that his sister is selling her 99. Well maintained but high miles. About $10k or so asking price.
Old 08-24-2018, 06:53 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Cuda911
I guess OP vanished? Yesterday a friend of mine told me that his sister is selling her 99. Well maintained but high miles. About $10k or so asking price.
Nah, I'm still here. I've just been reading and learning. Thanks everyone for all the input on this thread. Lots of good info.
Old 08-24-2018, 06:32 PM
  #45  
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Cuda sent you a pm.


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