Motor Mount Questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Motor Mount Questions
Best prices for factory equivalent.
Are left and right the same? I've seen some market as left or right and others not.
Are left and right the same? I've seen some market as left or right and others not.
#2
Rennlist Member
I bought my OEM replacements from Pelican Parts for under a hundred each side, labeled left and right each. They seem to work perfectly.
I heard of someone using a 964 RS mount and they liked it.
I heard of someone using a 964 RS mount and they liked it.
#3
Burning Brakes
Just got mine from ECS tuning for 79.95 each. The brand was Rein. Same part number for each side. The looks identical to the factory ones i removed.
#5
Rennlist Member
I bought my Rein replacements on Amazon. $85 each but prime. https://amzn.to/2LmCpGm
Looked identical to stock. Eventually, I pulled them through and decided to use Wevo semi-solid and have really been enjoying them. But my car isn't a daily driver, and there are lots of other thread here if you want to consider alternatives to factory. Easy DIY change.
Looked identical to stock. Eventually, I pulled them through and decided to use Wevo semi-solid and have really been enjoying them. But my car isn't a daily driver, and there are lots of other thread here if you want to consider alternatives to factory. Easy DIY change.
#6
Rennlist Member
I also went OEM and daily drive the car, and wondered if I should have gone semi-solid. That said, my car is 100% stock, so that’s the main reason I decided to go OEM. I’ve had full solid motor mounts in other vehicles and think they are still OK for the street, so I suspect semi-solid would have been a great alternative with a slight added performance benefit.
#7
I have semi solid Wevo's and they are great. Really made a HUGE difference in the way the car feels. They are def a bit harsher than stock, but by no means jarring. You do "feel" elements of the road much more, but I felt stock kind of was a bit too plush personally. Either way stock or semi-solid will be a big improvement.
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#8
I got mine from ECS Tuning - $165 for the kit (free shipping), both sides and includes the nuts. Rein brand.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...99337504908kt/
It's a very easy DIY. When removing the air pump, don't remove the screw that's closest to the driver side fender - Just loosen it. The pump base is slotted and will just pull out. Of course you have to remove the nut holding the pump to the coolant tank and the other screw closer to the center of the car. The first time I removed the air pump I removed that screw completely, but it's a bit of a pain to get it back in, and completely unnecessary.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...99337504908kt/
It's a very easy DIY. When removing the air pump, don't remove the screw that's closest to the driver side fender - Just loosen it. The pump base is slotted and will just pull out. Of course you have to remove the nut holding the pump to the coolant tank and the other screw closer to the center of the car. The first time I removed the air pump I removed that screw completely, but it's a bit of a pain to get it back in, and completely unnecessary.
Last edited by wyovino; 07-16-2018 at 01:24 PM.
#9
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^^++ and don't bust the nipple on the coolant hose right behind the SAI pump when you pull it out. I did and had to order a new coolant hose and wait a week. I replaced my motor mounts with OE motor mounts and have been really happy with the results. I debated in my mind and researched all the other alternatives, and then decided on just plain ole brand new OE motor mounts. Mine is a daily driver and never used for DE or tracking. I figured how could I go wrong with OE when the originals went over 120K miles/18 years.
#10
Rennlist Member
^^ + both posts above = right on.
This is a very easy job. Love working on this car, and be sure to support the engine properly (by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood or other non-hard between the jack and bottom of the engine. I ended up lifting the engine maybe 2” above where it sits normally. You want the entire engine resting on the jack.
This is a very easy job. Love working on this car, and be sure to support the engine properly (by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood or other non-hard between the jack and bottom of the engine. I ended up lifting the engine maybe 2” above where it sits normally. You want the entire engine resting on the jack.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
^^ + both posts above = right on.
This is a very easy job. Love working on this car, and be sure to support the engine properly (by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood or other non-hard between the jack and bottom of the engine. I ended up lifting the engine maybe 2” above where it sits normally. You want the entire engine resting on the jack.
This is a very easy job. Love working on this car, and be sure to support the engine properly (by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood or other non-hard between the jack and bottom of the engine. I ended up lifting the engine maybe 2” above where it sits normally. You want the entire engine resting on the jack.
I'll do it before I put the motor back in...
#14
I also went OEM and daily drive the car, and wondered if I should have gone semi-solid. That said, my car is 100% stock, so that’s the main reason I decided to go OEM. I’ve had full solid motor mounts in other vehicles and think they are still OK for the street, so I suspect semi-solid would have been a great alternative with a slight added performance benefit.
Thanks
#15
Race Car
Semi solid introduce more NHV but allow less movement of the engine due to being 'semi solid' (no oil just solid rubber).