My ‘99 996 is going in the shop next week for IMS, RMS, and most likely clutch. I’m the original owner, and the car has only 63,000 miles. No clutch problems, but since the mechanic will be in there, it seems to make sense to replace it. Note that I’ve driven sticks in all the sports cars I’ve owned, and can generally manage over 200k miles without problem. Also, fwiw, the car doesn’t have any discernible oil leaks.

Where I’m struggling is the dual flywheel. It’s apparently an expensive part, and of course I’d do it in a heartbeat if there are any signs of wear.

Just wondering what most folks in my position have opted to do. I’ll probably keep the car, even though I have a new Cabriolet S on order.

I take it you think the clutch should be replaced because it might have collected oil from the RMS? Or are you just going to replace due to age and “you’re already in there” and due to its age?

What Ahsai said. Don’t forget new bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate. Cheap insurance to replace it while you’re in there, if your paying for the labor.

Replacement of clutch is because I’m in there, and flywheeel would be age based. I’d be shocked if much in the way of wear is found at 63k miles, no oil csn be seen as best as I can tell.

There is a video on YouTube that shows how to check for wear.

Why are LUK and Sachs flywheels so much cheaper than some of the others that come up? If I end up replacing the flywheel, I don’t want to go with cheaper parts.

And yes I’ll replace the bolts. And no, I’m not doing the work.

Luk and Sachs are original equipment. Put them in a Porsche labeled box and you get the same product for twice the price or more.

My opinion is that the cost of the flywheel is low enough that it is worth replacing if you have any question. While there is a test to see if it has failed, there isn’t a test to see how much life is left. I believe the rubber spring bits that join the two parts are the thing that fails, and they have a useful life.

Your new clutch is going to live many tens of thousands of miles or more. If the flywheel goes south before your next clutch job or transmission drop for your your next RMS replacement, the cost of labor to drop the transmission is the key factor.

You are trading off the cost of a flywheel now for the cost of labor plus a flywheel on the future transmission drop. That future cost will be transmission R&R labor plus the replacement flywheel. Basically you pay for labor twice if you defer the replacement.

This makes it a good preventative option in my book.

All bets are off if you do your own work and labor is free. Or if the money is not an issue. You may be better off waiting in those scenarios.