IMS Solution o-ring
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From: RI
IMS Solution o-ring
What is the correct location for the second 10mm o-ring? The first one is already pre-installed in the ims flange. At first I thought it slid over the center stud after the ims flange was installed, but the nut would just crush it, so wouldn't do much of anything. I am now guessing it should be installed on the center stud before the ims flange is installed. This seems correct as there is a chamfer in the end of the ims flange that it looks like it would fit into but just want to confirm.
Last edited by Hybridiia; Mar 20, 2018 at 08:07 PM.
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You're scaring me! You are following the IMSB removal and installation instructions...right? Step 28 http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-...nual-03-23.pdf
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Yes, of course I am following the LN instructions. You linked the wrong manual, but the correct manual (for the IMS Solution) does not mention the second o-ring nor does the online video. I have researched the forums and others have had the same question, but I could not find a definitive answer. I have a ticket into LN and hopefully they will respond with a clear answer.
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Yes, of course I am following the LN instructions. You linked the wrong manual, but the correct manual (for the IMS Solution) does not mention the second o-ring nor does the online video. I have researched the forums and others have had the same question, but I could not find a definitive answer. I have a ticket into LN and hopefully they will respond with a clear answer.
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What is the correct location for the second 10mm o-ring? The first one is already pre-installed in the ims flange. At first I thought it slid over the center stud after the ims flange was installed, but the nut would just crush it, so wouldn't do much of anything. I am now guessing it should be installed on the center stud before the ims flange is installed. This seems correct as there is a chamfer in the end of the ims flange that it looks like it would fit into but just want to confirm.
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Sorry about that. Was in a hurry this morning. For future reference here is the IMS Solution installation link http://imssolution.com/wp-content/up...nual-05-16.pdf
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: VT USA
The 10 X 1.5 o-ring should be left on the center stud, as with the IMS Retrofit flanges. It's a secondary seal. If the IMS isn't perfectly centered when the flange goes on, there is a remote chance the threads can abrade the o-ring that is pre-installed in the ID of the flange, so we added the backup for that explicit purpose.
Race Car
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One O-ring is pre installed in the flange. The second O-ring slips over the shaft and goes behind the nut. You will see a little chamfer in the flange that the O ring sits in behind the nut. Just a secondary seal to stop leaks.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
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From: SF Bay Area
The 10 X 1.5 o-ring should be left on the center stud, as with the IMS Retrofit flanges. It's a secondary seal. If the IMS isn't perfectly centered when the flange goes on, there is a remote chance the threads can abrade the o-ring that is pre-installed in the ID of the flange, so we added the backup for that explicit purpose.
And if is supposed to be on the nut side of the flange (between the nut and flange), then do I have a problem having left it on the stud inside (doesnt seem like it would be a problem since it shouldnt bind anything, but ...)? Hope to hear back soon.
Thanks!
PS - its a really nice piece of kit and everything worked out well using Pro and Supplemental kits for me. The issues I had were:
- What to do with this o-ring,
- Wow to reach 12-20 ft lbs of torque on the stud nut (mine turned at about 8 ft lbs and I ) - I hogged out the 7/16 deep well socket (the one that came in the supplemental kit) to get a screwdriver through it to hold the stud, which solved it.
- The stud on my old bearing broke when I was trying to extract it, and I could have used some additional detail on how to pull the bearing using the backup bearing tool with the copper wire. The length of the large threaded puller bolt/rod is a bit too short if you have to pull the bearing using the backup method - I couldnt fit the washer so I had to use only the large nut and I had back out a few turns of thread engagement in the backup bearing tool (with the copper wire) and I could only get about 3 turns of engage on the big nut. It was enough to get the job done, but an extra 1/2 inch of length would have helped.
- Pull 2 vs. 3 tensioners (the instructions say 3, but I read a post from Jake saying 2 was fine) - it doesnt seem to me that you need to pull the 3rd tensioner by the AC compressor, but its probably a good cautionary measure even though its kind of a PIA.
Last edited by Dmhager; May 18, 2019 at 04:12 AM. Reason: additional input
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From: Momence, IL
Hi Charles - I need your advice. I was installing the dual row Solution in my 996 this week (2001 996) and called to ask a couple of questions, including what to do with this second o-ring. Andy helped me out and was terrific! Many thanks to him. However, when I asked about the second o-ring that arrived on the stud in my kit, he told me to leave it, which I did, and I installed the flange on top of the second o-ring. Its not clear to me from your prior response whether that o-ring belongs on the outside (nut side) of the flange or the bearing side of the flange. Can you clarify please?
PS - its a really nice piece of kit and everything worked out well using Pro and Supplemental kits for me. The issues I had were:
- What to do with this o-ring,
- Wow to reach 12-20 ft lbs of torque on the stud nut (mine turned at about 8 ft lbs and I ) - I hogged out the 7/16 deep well socket (the one that came in the supplemental kit) to get a screwdriver through it to hold the stud, which solved it.
- The stud on my old bearing broke when I was trying to extract it, and I could have used some additional detail on how to pull the bearing using the backup bearing tool with the copper wire. The length of the large threaded puller bolt/rod is a bit too short if you have to pull the bearing using the backup method - I couldnt fit the washer so I had to use only the large nut and I had back out a few turns of thread engagement in the backup bearing tool (with the copper wire) and I could only get about 3 turns of engage on the big nut. It was enough to get the job done, but an extra 1/2 inch of length would have helped.
- Pull 2 vs. 3 tensioners (the instructions say 3, but I read a post from Jake saying 2 was fine) - it doesnt seem to me that you need to pull the 3rd tensioner by the AC compressor, but its probably a good cautionary measure even though its kind of a PIA.
- What to do with this o-ring,
- Wow to reach 12-20 ft lbs of torque on the stud nut (mine turned at about 8 ft lbs and I ) - I hogged out the 7/16 deep well socket (the one that came in the supplemental kit) to get a screwdriver through it to hold the stud, which solved it.
- The stud on my old bearing broke when I was trying to extract it, and I could have used some additional detail on how to pull the bearing using the backup bearing tool with the copper wire. The length of the large threaded puller bolt/rod is a bit too short if you have to pull the bearing using the backup method - I couldnt fit the washer so I had to use only the large nut and I had back out a few turns of thread engagement in the backup bearing tool (with the copper wire) and I could only get about 3 turns of engage on the big nut. It was enough to get the job done, but an extra 1/2 inch of length would have helped.
- Pull 2 vs. 3 tensioners (the instructions say 3, but I read a post from Jake saying 2 was fine) - it doesnt seem to me that you need to pull the 3rd tensioner by the AC compressor, but its probably a good cautionary measure even though its kind of a PIA.
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From: Momence, IL
This is not correct, however the Pelican kit uses a chamfered washer and o-ring under the nut, so perhaps that is where the confusion stems from.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
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From: SF Bay Area
Andy indeed guided you correctly to leave the o-ring at the base of the center stud, not under the nut (which would prevent the nut from being torqued and would destroy the o-ring). There is a chamfer on the snout of the flange that captures that o-ring on both IMS Retrofit and IMS Solution flanges.
Thank you for the feedback. As always, support is only a phone call or email away. Andy is a tech on the service and repair side of the business, so you were speaking to someone that has fitted these parts and knows them intimately.
Thank you for the feedback. As always, support is only a phone call or email away. Andy is a tech on the service and repair side of the business, so you were speaking to someone that has fitted these parts and knows them intimately.
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