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Old 01-07-2018, 01:57 PM
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Neilb
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Default Burst cooling line

I was replacing the engine air filter and accidentally bumped a coolant line. It burst. It must have been ready to go at any minute because I barely touched it. Anyway, It does not look like it can be reattached (almost like a small tube within the larger tube broke at a connection). Now I don’t know what to do. Can I drive it to a mechanic or do I need to have it towed? Any other advice?



Bigger picture of the location of the burst coolant tub. (Yes, my oil fill line broke off also... not my best day).


Broken tube


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Old 01-07-2018, 02:25 PM
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sweet victory
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Very common mistake, and very easy to fix. Do not drive until fixed.

Pelican parts sells a stainless/aluminum replacement for about $40, or you can replace with a barbed coupler from home depot/lowes.
Old 01-07-2018, 05:31 PM
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rolex11
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Originally Posted by sweet victory
Very common mistake, and very easy to fix. Do not drive until fixed.

Pelican parts sells a stainless/aluminum replacement for about $40, or you can replace with a barbed coupler from home depot/lowes.
This is the brass fitting (Home Depot $5.00) to replace it. I also ordered the OEM replacement part. You can cut off the connections and then dremmel out this part and fashion a holder for the new brass fitting. Use the worm drive clamps to fasten. That puppy will never break again.
Old 01-07-2018, 05:56 PM
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NYoutftr
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I just received mine in the mail last week.
The Indy that I had used, broke the original piece and I replaced it a couple years ago.
But, now I am doing a major cooling service, waterpump, thermostat, coolant tank, new center radiator kit and hoses.
It seemed foolish not to upgrade this part.
Old 01-07-2018, 05:57 PM
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rolex11
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Originally Posted by rolex11



This is the brass fitting (Home Depot $5.00) to replace it. I also ordered the OEM replacement part. You can cut off the connections and then dremmel out this part and fashion a holder for the new brass fitting. Use the worm drive clamps to fasten. That puppy will never break again.
I haven't done this yet, was waiting until I do the water pump when all the coolant is drained. But let me ask those who have replaced theirs using whatever method, "Can you do this with a cold engine, depressurized, with coolant still in? Thinking maybe air will get into system or to much coolant will spill and be a pain in the ***. I'd like to do it now without dumping the coolant.

Thanks guys.
Old 01-07-2018, 06:22 PM
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Neilb
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Originally Posted by sweet victory
Very common mistake, and very easy to fix. Do not drive until fixed.

Pelican parts sells a stainless/aluminum replacement for about $40, or you can replace with a barbed coupler from home depot/lowes.
Thanks. I bought the part from Pelican. Any idea how to remove this clamp? Special tool? I’m afraid to pull too hard because I don’t want to pull off the other end deep in the bowels.
Old 01-07-2018, 07:19 PM
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rolex11
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It’s an Oetiker clamp. Google for ways to remove. There is a special tools but I don’t think it absolutely necessary.

And FYI, the other end is not in the bowels of the engine, it is connected about 6 inches below and easy to reach.

Last edited by rolex11; 01-07-2018 at 10:26 PM.
Old 01-08-2018, 12:28 AM
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Porschetech3
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Originally Posted by rolex11
I haven't done this yet, was waiting until I do the water pump when all the coolant is drained. But let me ask those who have replaced theirs using whatever method, "Can you do this with a cold engine, depressurized, with coolant still in? Thinking maybe air will get into system or to much coolant will spill and be a pain in the ***. I'd like to do it now without dumping the coolant.

Thanks guys.
Easily done with the coolant still in. Just use 2 pair of small needle nose vice grip pliers to clamp off hoses above and below splice. Don't clamp too tightly, just tight enough to keep it from leaking coolant.



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