996 electrical problem
#16
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I think we need to have a bit more information to narrow it down:
We know this: fresh battery, electrical portion of the ignition switch replaced, 12V+ at battery and terminal in engine bay.
In order to start these things happen:
1) Key in ignition, turn to on, the DME reads the passive RFID pill in the ignition key at the ignition key surround and there is a two way check with immobilizer (passive means no key battery is necessary)
2) dashboard cluster lights come on, oil level check, odometer shows mileage,clock is displayed
3) If the correct key is in the ignition and the two way communication between the DME and immobilizer checks out, then moving the key to start will crank the engine
4) Press down on the clutch pedal so the safety switch completes the circuit
5) In start mode, the ignition switch 12V sends 12V to the Start/Lock relay, which in turn sends 12V to the starter solenoid, which in turn kicks in and the main 12V high amperage is applied to the starter to turn the motor over
At which point is the starting process not working? Even if the key is not in the ignition, the lights will still come on...do they and are they bright? Did you check to see if the RFID pill is still in the key...they have been known to fall out (rare but happens)? If you have two keys, are they both doing the same thing? Did you disconnect or mess with any other wires behind the ignition switch, or maybe bump something and have a loose connection?
We know this: fresh battery, electrical portion of the ignition switch replaced, 12V+ at battery and terminal in engine bay.
In order to start these things happen:
1) Key in ignition, turn to on, the DME reads the passive RFID pill in the ignition key at the ignition key surround and there is a two way check with immobilizer (passive means no key battery is necessary)
2) dashboard cluster lights come on, oil level check, odometer shows mileage,clock is displayed
3) If the correct key is in the ignition and the two way communication between the DME and immobilizer checks out, then moving the key to start will crank the engine
4) Press down on the clutch pedal so the safety switch completes the circuit
5) In start mode, the ignition switch 12V sends 12V to the Start/Lock relay, which in turn sends 12V to the starter solenoid, which in turn kicks in and the main 12V high amperage is applied to the starter to turn the motor over
At which point is the starting process not working? Even if the key is not in the ignition, the lights will still come on...do they and are they bright? Did you check to see if the RFID pill is still in the key...they have been known to fall out (rare but happens)? If you have two keys, are they both doing the same thing? Did you disconnect or mess with any other wires behind the ignition switch, or maybe bump something and have a loose connection?
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I think problem is with main harness somewhere since there's no power ignition lock at any wires. So turning the key doesn't bring on dash lights. Turning light switch brings on parking lights. Interior lights do work as hazards. Need to figure out harness connection points and start debugging from there.
#19
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This is a diagram of the main power distribution. You will have to find the points of connection and check them, starting with the main battery cable to the power distribution box. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=902-05
#20
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#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
This is a diagram of the main power distribution. You will have to find the points of connection and check them, starting with the main battery cable to the power distribution box. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=902-05
Ordered works manuals on DVD and waiting it to arrive
#22
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The power distribution box (part #16) is mounted to the firewall in the passenger compartment. The mounting studs and positive cable stud extend through the firewall where the positive battery cable bolts to the firewall. Unbolt the positive cable and mounting nuts and pull it down, there are a few fuseable links inside that need to be tested. If one of the links is burned out proceed with caution, as there is very large short circuit somewhere !!
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Now we are getting somewhere. Blown 80A fuse on junction box #16. Went to BMW today only to find out one can be shipped to store in next monday. Ideas who has these, I guess Audi & VW ...
What caused it we don't know at this point. No burnt wires anywhere. Debugging continues tomorrow, thanks for your help so far!
#26
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What you are going to have to figure out is why that 80 AMP fusible link blew. Here is the diagram of the distribution box and functions. Is it possible that that center fusible link got blown when you changed out the ignition switch, because that is what it is for.
#28
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You should get two. Disconnect battery negative cable before putting the fusible link in. Then connect the battery and see if everything is working. If it blows, you'll have to check the ignition switch and wires there for a short. But at least you have another one to put in after you discover the short, if any.
#29
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Replaced fuse, provided auxiliary power to junction box with cables to see if fuse blows. Dash lights up. Put everything back into place, start, car fires right up. Oooooooyea !!
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!
#30
Rennlist Member
Replaced fuse, provided auxiliary power to junction box with cables to see if fuse blows. Dash lights up. Put everything back into place, start, car fires right up. Oooooooyea !!
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!