Honestly....I don't know. I've been asked to change injectors, as the original thought was that I had a faulty injector(s) causing excessive fuel washing out the cylinder walls. The oil sample I did showed very little fuel values going into the oil mixture so wasn't convinced that was my issue.

Looking back and talking to the fellow who assisted me in building the engine, we are pretty sure the oil control rings and its wide variance in gaps are the reason why my motor is burning oil at the 1 quart/every 1000 km's driven.

 

Sounds like you are doing what they do in those F1 cars with their qualy mode

 

I had my engine rebuilt by Automobile Associates in Clinton Connecticut. They bored my 3.8 liter out to a 4.0 liter. My horsepower went from 320 to 370 and torque went from 270 to 300. It has GT2 power now. And it is awesome. I have had it for 18 months and two track seasons and have not had an issue. Assuming you are going to a good engine builder, you will get a hand built engine that will be bullet proof. You will get a better engine than you can buy from the factory. They will fix every flaw associated with the M96 engine. You will never get your money back, but my God you will get a great engine.

 

GT2 numbers start with 4.

 

my stock 3.6 used to burn about a quart per 1k miles on m10w40 .... I switched to liquimoly and that cut it down to less than 1/2 this ....

 

I'm running DT40 as per LNE instructions....but you're the 3rd person to say (a couple have PM'd me) on using a different brand oil reduced their oil consumption by quite a bit.

​​​

 

I think going to DT40 lowered my 3.6s consumption. Not sure exactly where it is now, but it's in the range of 0.5-1L per 1,000 miles. Driving style seems to be a major factor, though.

 

the 2 that pm'd me were running DT40. Changed to a different brand, thinner oil and they reported a reduction in consumption.

 

I'm afraid to ask but, here goes: how much should one budget for a M96 rebuild to 4.0 spec?
Will the M96 issues go away? IMS / RMS etc? Are there Mezger "tricks" or upgrades that folks have done to their M96? I understand that its a different block, but can one do "while you're in there" Mezger upgrades for a more robust engine?

More stupid questions:

• "Thanks to its racing intentions, the GT3’s motor doesn’t suffer from IMS bearing failures like its M96 and M97 cousins. While the engine still uses an intermediate shaft to drive the camshafts, the oil pumps are driven directly by the crank. What’s more, the GT1-derived block has a different oil gallery design that ensures the IMS bearing remains lubricated at all times." - can one use the same GT3 crank-driven oil pumps to prevent IMS issues in the future?
• Can or has anyone had their M96 built using separate cylinder heads for each cylinder rather than the M96/72 single head per bank?
• What other upgrades can be done for better flow, efficiency and or power / torque?

Always been curious if one can use the "better" or upgraded Porsche parts that are used in the GT3's in the M96 during a rebuild?

 

DT40 always has higher consumption than most any other oil.. Thats no secret, nor is it a problem.

1 qt in 1,000 miles driven is exactly what DT40 should provide. We've known this, and shared this with all of our purchasers of engines for a decade.

 

I wasn't aware of any of this. When we talked about it originally, I was advise to change injectors and report back

 

12-20k.

depends what you want done. Head work to match the 4.0 block adds significant costs to the project. I did very minor work to the heads and kept the costs low here. I spent my time addressing the weak points inside the block. Rod bolts, IMS paddle, oil hex, pinned IMS shaft, carrier bolts...

and no, you still have the chance of IMS failure after all said and done.

 

You were directed to change the injectors, because you should have done that when the engine was built, anyway.

Also, didn't you state at the time that you had more consumption than 1qt per 1,000?
(Sorry, I have to waste a lot of time answering emails from non- purchasers of my engines, so I don't remember every email.)

 

I was never told to use new injectors. I had them cleaned and flow tested since they were out but this was never mentioned in the course I took and I pretty much wrote down everything that was said.

anyways, I'm not into the he said she said BS and now I know what kind of burn rate I should expect with DT40, which sounds like it is bang on with what I am experiencing. Thanks.

 

We've learned that ethanol based duels kill these injectors to a point where they will never hold leak down pressure, or have a proper spray pattern, even after professional cleaning. Protocol is injector replacement. Instantaneously smoke at start up goes away (no more injector bleed down after engine shut down) and fuel consumption goes down, as well as oil consumption. Fuel tim levels out, and is stable, rough running index can drop 20% or more.

The problem isn't that the injectors are dirty..

Anyway, if you are at 1 qt in 1,000 with DT40, thats where you should be with that oil.