Block and/or Oil Heater
#1
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I have a 2001 996 C4 that I've recently dumped way too much money into and want to keep forever, but it's not my only toy. And it's just lost it's spot in the garage. I try to take very good care of my cars, and the thought of cranking her in freezing temps in a couple months bothers me, obviously. We're only VA, not northern Canada or anything, but I have a friend down the road that killed his 996 with a cold weather start a few years ago. I've done some searches, read a few threads, most of which go off in tangents and never get to an actual product or solution. Anyone have any solution? I'd like both, the oil and block warm if possible. TIA
#2
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What failed on your buddy's motor? I lived in NoVa for 14 years and never had an issue with any of my cars on its coldest days.
#3
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Built in Germany...where they are used year round.
Now, they may fail when started in cold weather.![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
I also hear that engine experiences explosions every time it is started. Too hard of the explosion may shatter the block. This may happen if too much fuel and air gets dumped in the engine. Sudden gust of wind or reversing can overwhelm the intake system forcing the huge amount of unmetered air into the combustion chamber. MAF cannot compensate for the huge amounts of air entering the engine, and dumps most of the fuel in the system through the fuel injection system. The resulting combustion event produces at least 3 or 4 times the energy engine can produce at WOT at peak torque; so regardless of RPM you are in, this event results in the CEF via the mode 26- AKA hole in the block. Next time you start your engine, beware of the explosion!!!
Now, they may fail when started in cold weather.
![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
I also hear that engine experiences explosions every time it is started. Too hard of the explosion may shatter the block. This may happen if too much fuel and air gets dumped in the engine. Sudden gust of wind or reversing can overwhelm the intake system forcing the huge amount of unmetered air into the combustion chamber. MAF cannot compensate for the huge amounts of air entering the engine, and dumps most of the fuel in the system through the fuel injection system. The resulting combustion event produces at least 3 or 4 times the energy engine can produce at WOT at peak torque; so regardless of RPM you are in, this event results in the CEF via the mode 26- AKA hole in the block. Next time you start your engine, beware of the explosion!!!
#4
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Fan heater and timeswitch?
You need to get a reason why the other one failed.
Don't over rev a cold engine and make sure you use a thin oil as advised in the book.
What's your minimum temperature?
You need to get a reason why the other one failed.
Don't over rev a cold engine and make sure you use a thin oil as advised in the book.
What's your minimum temperature?
#5
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If its something that keeps you up at night Tanis makes pre-heaters for aviation motors, I'm sure you could find one of their sump heaters that would fit onto an M96.
They heated bolts for rocker covers are very cool way of heating the cylinders
They heated bolts for rocker covers are very cool way of heating the cylinders
#7
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#9
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The last wave of scored cylinders came up last winter. It's been quiet on that mode of failure since then. The engine builder here says it's something to be aware of, so I think you are making a reasonable decision. I'm from NoVa but in SLC now & don't drive mine when it's below 40F. Sometimes we have weeks where it doesn't get above 10F - not a shot in hell I'm driving the 996 during those times. Maybe I'm wrong & the caution is pointless, but I'd rather not dance with the 996 rebuild devil until well past 100k miles.
#10
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http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/kat_s
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
#11
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2 cars here in Ohio that I know of had sudden cylinder-wall scoring on sudden winter-startup, a 997.1S and a 987.1S.
If a somewhat heated garage isn't an option, the next easiest is a heating pad that adheres to the oil pan. Slightly less easy is an in-line coolant heater, that you splice into a coolant hose preferably near the engine on the non-thermostat side (follow the directions). Ideally, knocking out a freeze plug and using a freeze-plug heater has been the accepted approach for decades but I've never seen one on an M96.
Check amazon, TSC, or Napa locally if that's your thing
If a somewhat heated garage isn't an option, the next easiest is a heating pad that adheres to the oil pan. Slightly less easy is an in-line coolant heater, that you splice into a coolant hose preferably near the engine on the non-thermostat side (follow the directions). Ideally, knocking out a freeze plug and using a freeze-plug heater has been the accepted approach for decades but I've never seen one on an M96.
Check amazon, TSC, or Napa locally if that's your thing
#12
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http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/kat_s
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
I've read even a high wattage light bulb stuffed under the engine should generate enough heat after an hour or two to make cold starts a non issue.
#13
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http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/kat_s
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
A good collection of block/engine heaters
Also this https://mercedessource.com/store/eng...stallation-kit
#14
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So is anyone here running a blocker heater on their 996? If yes, I would love to see your set up. I'm looking to get a block heater as I've always had them for improving the cold start situation.
Thx
Thx
#15
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Behold, sayeth Raby in post 12901879:
The cold is just one of the variables that play into this. Actual running clearances vary from engine to engine, and the quality of the localism cylinders, and the protective piston skirt coating does, too. The adhesion of this coating to the pistons is a key player in the cylinder failure, as it often occurs first, before the cylinder fails.
No single thing is going to help this scenario. I have tested a block heater kit that we made up, but no one would buy it, and on top of that, when you truly understand the dynamics behind this failure, you realize that engines that are going to die from this are already injured as we talk about this as they have already had the perfect storm set up, and it just has to play out.
This is a failure where luck is the major variable.
The biggest mistake people make is firing the car up in winter and allowing it to warm the cabin before they get in, or allowing too much engine warm up time at idle. This keeps the cold start, and just started enrichment higher and for a longer amount of time. All the while the injectors are dumping excess fuel to help light the catalytic converters off, with help of secondary air injection. This fuel is pure solvent, washing down the oil thats the lifeblood of the cylinders and pistons.
Load= Heat. Get in, strap in, fire up and drive away lightly and the engine will not see nearly as much over- enrichment.
No single thing is going to help this scenario. I have tested a block heater kit that we made up, but no one would buy it, and on top of that, when you truly understand the dynamics behind this failure, you realize that engines that are going to die from this are already injured as we talk about this as they have already had the perfect storm set up, and it just has to play out.
This is a failure where luck is the major variable.
The biggest mistake people make is firing the car up in winter and allowing it to warm the cabin before they get in, or allowing too much engine warm up time at idle. This keeps the cold start, and just started enrichment higher and for a longer amount of time. All the while the injectors are dumping excess fuel to help light the catalytic converters off, with help of secondary air injection. This fuel is pure solvent, washing down the oil thats the lifeblood of the cylinders and pistons.
Load= Heat. Get in, strap in, fire up and drive away lightly and the engine will not see nearly as much over- enrichment.