Out of hibernation time
#1
Burning Brakes
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OK here's an overly neurotic concern. It's about time to take the 993 turbo out of its winter slumber and the thought had occurred to me..... i'm using this vtwin 2050 mobil 1 oil. I'm wondering if it's cold flow viscosity is a concern.
in the Northeast ill still drive her till they start putting salt on the road so that could be sometimes into December and now again in the spring when the roads are dry
but a lot of times I could be starting her in 30° Fahrenheit weather. Probably OK ? Or marginally OK ? Wonder if I should buy one of those cheapie heating pads and stick it to the oil pan. But that probably won't work because it probably gets oil first from the dry sump behind the rear wheel so that's inconveniently inaccessible
any concern or non-issue for adequate oiling upon start up in cold ambient temperatures with 2050 vtwin oil.
thanks
joe
in the Northeast ill still drive her till they start putting salt on the road so that could be sometimes into December and now again in the spring when the roads are dry
but a lot of times I could be starting her in 30° Fahrenheit weather. Probably OK ? Or marginally OK ? Wonder if I should buy one of those cheapie heating pads and stick it to the oil pan. But that probably won't work because it probably gets oil first from the dry sump behind the rear wheel so that's inconveniently inaccessible
any concern or non-issue for adequate oiling upon start up in cold ambient temperatures with 2050 vtwin oil.
thanks
joe
#7
Race Car
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I was not able to find it but there is a table showing the operating temperature ranges and as I recall the lower end for V Twin was - 10 F or C. Can't remember which but either is way colder than we would ever start 'em up.
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#8
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A good practice which I have been preaching for years is to, especially when the car is in storage and sitting for a long time, is to pull the DME relay (its in the trunk fuse panel) which shuts off the fuel injectors and ignition, but still allows you to turn over the engine. You now can pump/squirt/splash some oil through the engine, and reposition the pistons/cams without a heat cycle that would happen if you started the car.
If the car has been sitting for say a week, I do the same procedure, pull the relay, crank until oil pressure, restore the relay and then start.
Another good practice is to start the car in neutral, clutch out. This offloads the main crankshaft bearing supporting the clutch since the clutch is not engaged. Why is this good? Well, on startup there is no oil pressure to lubricate/float this bearing, so putting a load on that bearing and starting the engine can cause more wear that starting the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is out.
You might need to disable your clutch interlock switch if your car has one.
Cheers
Mike
If the car has been sitting for say a week, I do the same procedure, pull the relay, crank until oil pressure, restore the relay and then start.
Another good practice is to start the car in neutral, clutch out. This offloads the main crankshaft bearing supporting the clutch since the clutch is not engaged. Why is this good? Well, on startup there is no oil pressure to lubricate/float this bearing, so putting a load on that bearing and starting the engine can cause more wear that starting the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is out.
You might need to disable your clutch interlock switch if your car has one.
Cheers
Mike
#10
Drifting
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A good practice which I have been preaching for years is to, especially when the car is in storage and sitting for a long time, is to pull the DME relay (its in the trunk fuse panel) which shuts off the fuel injectors and ignition, but still allows you to turn over the engine. You now can pump/squirt/splash some oil through the engine, and reposition the pistons/cams without a heat cycle that would happen if you started the car.
If the car has been sitting for say a week, I do the same procedure, pull the relay, crank until oil pressure, restore the relay and then start.
Another good practice is to start the car in neutral, clutch out. This offloads the main crankshaft bearing supporting the clutch since the clutch is not engaged. Why is this good? Well, on startup there is no oil pressure to lubricate/float this bearing, so putting a load on that bearing and starting the engine can cause more wear that starting the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is out.
You might need to disable your clutch interlock switch if your car has one.
Cheers
Mike
If the car has been sitting for say a week, I do the same procedure, pull the relay, crank until oil pressure, restore the relay and then start.
Another good practice is to start the car in neutral, clutch out. This offloads the main crankshaft bearing supporting the clutch since the clutch is not engaged. Why is this good? Well, on startup there is no oil pressure to lubricate/float this bearing, so putting a load on that bearing and starting the engine can cause more wear that starting the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is out.
You might need to disable your clutch interlock switch if your car has one.
Cheers
Mike
#11
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If its just sitting there, usually only a few seconds to oil pressure. I usually let it crank for say 5-10 seconds.
If an oil change and you need to prime the filters/circuits before starting, 30 seconds (one in 3 10 second bursts). This one is important, since you do not want to start and wait until the oil pushes any introduced air out of the system.
Cheers,
Mike
If an oil change and you need to prime the filters/circuits before starting, 30 seconds (one in 3 10 second bursts). This one is important, since you do not want to start and wait until the oil pushes any introduced air out of the system.
Cheers,
Mike
#14
Burning Brakes
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If you look at ALL the spooky videos on you tube they depict 20w-50 as practically solid at freezing; some show it not pouring at all. My video shows it pours nearly as well as the supposed much thinner oil...lil shocking in a good way tho.