SPR

Well I am on day two of the rebuild. Fixing what my dumbass dad destoyed! I have already replaced the power steering rack Pss9's on all corners with the billet adapter mount in rear. Had to remove the damn intercooler to do the rears but it wasn't as bad as I thought. Replaced a broken track arm right rear. Front left is complete, front left is there but the front mount is too pushed in to fit the damn crossmemeber. I have to have a frame shop or body shop bring it back, same goes with the oil cooler 2nd mount for the bracket, bent in. Clockspring in, pass airbag in, airbag controller in. Here's a questions, where can I get the special tools to tighten the front strust with the torq and that half socket? I don't want to put it down till that's settled. Also How can I press out the rear hub bearing? I have to replace the left rear hub/spindle completely. It's out but I have to have that center pressed out and press it into the new one somehow. Any ideas? Thanks. !!! I am getting there! OH yeah I have two stitches from an a arm smacking me in the face and about a dozen cuts on the knuckes and fingers! Sh*t

SPR

It appears that I have to have it pressed out by a maching shop. Anyone know how to dissasemble the parking brake though? thanks.

viperbob

SPR,

On the fronts with the PSS9s, I just used a Sears deep well 1/2' drive socket, and then cut out an access port with a dremel tool to allow me to insert the allen wrench. Or, you can spend a lot of money on a Hazet socket.

There is a special tool for pressing the wheel bearings in and out on a Porsche. I just did this on my Turbo. Pretty simple with the right tools. Engine Builders Supply has them for $125. I have one leftover from my Carrera days. You will also need a good 2 jaw puller. When you remove the hub, it pulls out the outer race on the wheel bearing. You will see the there is relief cast into the hub for the jaws to remove the race. Be careful when removing the hub after removing the axle nut (which is torqued to 325 lb ft so have a good air compressor ready) as there is a vent cast into the middle of the turbo axle. After removing the nut and removing the axle bolts at the transaxle, you will need to jack the rear suspension up on that side in order to remove the axle.

BTW, you don't need to mess with the parking brake at all...

Bill S.

I saw Ruf remove and install the top nut on the front and rear shocks using an air impact wrench. With this technique, you don't need to hold the shaft. The impact of the air wrench does the job. Since the shaft spins, you also can't over-torque.

viperbob

I just have a major aversion to using an impact wrench on just about anything related to my car.

SPR

well for the rears I used the impact wrench and it worked just fine, but the front would just spin. Regarding the hub. I already have it removed from the car, and I had to remove the parking brake to remove the hub. I have this cheazy cd manual my father got from ebay which told me how to remove it by removeing the ebrake etc. How do you dissasemble the parking brake components offhand? I looked into the manual but it is extremely poor and not indexed. That is not a bad idea about just cutting open an old socket. I however don't have a right angled torx. I have to apologize about my grammer etc. when I wrote the post I had, ahem, a couple. In any event. Viperbob, can you be more specific on removing the parking brake and the hub with bearing? I was told that when you press it out the bearing gets wasted, so I went ahead and ordered a new on. Thanks. Sean

SPR

OH when I removed the nut from the hub, I used a believe a 1 1/4 socket with a very long breaker bar. Even at that it took all of my weight and me hoping down on it! Not a very nice sight but I was careful. I can't wait until I can have this thing together! Regarding the right front, which I mistakenly called the left earlier, the front mounting point for the side member which the a arm bolts to is pushed up about 1-2 inches. I can't decide if i am going to find a way to beat the mount back or what. It is visible from the inside trunk. Luckily or not the mount is the farthest back the damage went but it still move it up and it also bent the oil cooler mounts over.

Bill S.

If the old shock is to be discarded, a Vice-Grip on the shaft while using the impact wrench will work fine. Otherwise, you may want to wrap it with a cloth. It doesn't need much grip.

I know this sounds crude, but I really don't see how it can damage anything. However, I definitely wouldn't re-use the old nuts.

SPR

yeah that's what I did exactly! hahaha I have them in the car but I need to just tighten up the fronts.

SPR

Also out of curiosity, the car has carbon passenger airbag covers uppper and lower. Are these reusable or should I replace them? The bottom seems just fine, however there is a slight nick out of the top. They are carbon though, so I bet they are pricey to replace. thanks. Sean

viperbob

A few things. 1) do not touch any part of the ebrake system. Just release the brake inside the cockpit. 2) You need an allen wrench not a torx for the tops of the struts 3) You need to get the bearing tool and it should have instructions. With this tool, it takes about 2 minutes to remove and 2 minutes to install. It also then allows you to press the hub back into the wheel bearing (without pressing out the inside bearing race).

SPR

well the inside of the pss9 is a torx but I guess an allen would work. I was told that when you press the bearing and assembly out it wastes the bearing. The ebrake parts are mounted to the hub itself though isn't it? If not, and if it's all on part with the center section then that would make it a million times easier.

viperbob

SPR,

Are you talking about the torx at the bottom of the strut? If so, then yes this is a torx, a t-40 I think.

The rear upright has the ebrake mounted to it. The hub has nothing except the rear rotor bolted on (and the little axle nut). You can remove the entire hub / axle / bearing assemblies without touching the ebrake. These pieces make zero difference in removing the wheel bearing.

Maybe i didn't make it clear. The wheel bearing gets pressed in and out by only removing the brake disc, hub, and rear axle (on that side). That is it....

SPR

Right ok, I have everything dissasembled and out and I need to completely remove all pieces from the old hub or wheel carrier if you will and move it all over to the new one so that I can reassemble everything. On the front struts I am speaking of the top part which I thought was a torx but maybe it is in fact an allen I don't have it in front of me so dunno. On the wheel carrier issue I have to remove all of the old parts with the bearing and all included and mount it all to the new wheel carrier and then install it so I have it all together

SPR

I found the web page but didn't find the press for 125, is it under a different name or amount? I did however find the really expensive hazet one for like 320! ouch.