Knight

So where did you mount the ballasts for the fogs?

Up here our fogs are used as DRLs, I'm thinking having HIDs hooked up every time the car is running they prob won't last that long, unless a high quality aftermarket kit.

Ridin Dirty

The ballasts are a fraction of the size of the litronics. They easily fit behind the light itself. Just "stuffed" it right in there. And with the assembly in front of it it was very snug. There is a flat surface there too that i used industrial 2 sided tape.

also, and the marker lights/turn signals are leds; (much brighter) they will switch over from white to amber with turn signal on.

good results, easy work, even with cheap ebay stuff. And can go back to oem easily.

Joe

Ehllis

plastic w/ the extra heat.

Knight

Gents I seem to be having issues hooking up the aftermarket ballast, my first short resulted in a few damage terminals at the plug socket wiring harness (female end). I've replaced this now, however now I've got a short at the connector housing - male (headlamp unit). So I'm questioning if my rationale for hookup is incorrect.

OEM litronics setup:

- 2 wires (power/ground) going into the ballast / 2 wires going out. Very basic color codes so it's easy to tell which wires are joining at the connector housing.

- Inside the headlight housing we have an ignitor. Of course it joins the connector housing + D2S socket. Again simple color code (blue/red) wires.

Aftermarket setup:

- New ballasts today contain built in ignitors. I've chosen to mount at the OEM location. Very simple I have 2 factory wires going in / 2 factory wires going out. No changes I want to retain the factory headlight connector housing and plug socket.

- Within the headlight housing, I've removed the ignitor. As noted above it's simple blue/red wires, all I did was join the wires from the existing connector housing directly to the D2S socket. See below image for reference.

Now I've tested the ballast directly to a D2S bulb and it works fine with the headlight switch. So when hooked up to the headlight housing using OEM connectors, it doesn't work and creates a short.

My obvious next step is I need to replace the connector housing, however thought I would check here for any extra advice.

Knight

Just to close this up, MikeJ help me solve this issue today!

The power from the ballast must run directly to the bulb connection. Due to the high voltage, you cannot run via the OEM connector/plug - headlight housing. This was my error creating a shortage.

So anyone needing to ever change over to the aftermarket setup, the process is actually quite straight forward:

- Situate a slim ballast inside the headlight housing (power will come from the OEM source/connector). Within housing plug directly into D2S connector. This is the route I've gone and it's the cleanest, as you can still remove the headlight as per normal.

- Another option if you have the ballast situated in the OEM location, you will need to feed a long wire from the ballast directly to the D2S connection within the headlight housing. This will most likely mean drilling a hole so you can feed in the wire.

Mike J

Happy to help Sir! Finally, the EE degree came in handy.

dochilli

Hi!
Very interesting informations for me! I have the same problem with the bosch 1307329019.
Which ballast did you use and how did you install it inside the housing. Pictures?
Martin

Knight

If you get yourself a slim ballast it will just sit within the headlight housing, there is enough wiring etc that it will not move around. It's actually a fairly tight fit, even with the slimmest ballasts on the market. The only drawback is that it gets very hot within the housing and ventilation isn't the best. As result, under certain conditions your prone to more condensation within the housing. If you choose to go this route, you will need a ballast similar to this:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VHZW-bXvgyo

After using this setup for awhile, I've now moved to re-locating the ballast back to the factory location, since it's rains a lot here I prefer no condensation. Only drawback is you have wires going into the headlight housing, therefore headlight removal requires disconnecting a few plugs.

Good luck, the wiring itself is pretty straight forward. Remove old ballast, connect/jump the power/ground together. Then within the headlight housing, disconnect ignitor. The power/ground that was formerly going to your ignitor will now connect/power your new ballast.

dochilli

Hi!
I have still some questions:
1. Where did you get the 12V DC? My ballast has a 6 pin connector. Four cables are brown, blue-yellow, yellow and brown-yellow. Two cables are black and connect pin 5 and 6 (ground). When the light is on, I can not see that there is a 12V line. I measured more then 50V between brown-yellow and yellow or also 50V between blue-yellow and brown. Did you use some of these lines for the 12V?
2. The two cables brown-yellow and yellow are connected to the ignitor through the connector in the headlight housing. I found a slimline ballast where the ballast is seperated from the ignitor. I wanted to place the ballast in the same place like the original and wanted to use the brown-yellow and yellow for the connection to the igniter (placed in the housing). My problem now is, that I do not have the 12V conncetion.
How did you manage this?
Cheers!
Martin

dochilli

Hi!
I solved my problem:
I connected the blue-yellow und yellow cable (+12V) and the brown and brown-yellow cable (ground) of the old ballast. Then I had 12 V inside the headlighthousing and used it for the new ballast, that is positioned in the place of the old ignitor. The 12 V will only work, when the headlight housing is installed. If you pull it out, you can not measure the 12 V in the connection of the two cable of the old ballast!
Now my litronic 2.0 works again and it only costs about 20$ (for the new ballast)! Thanks to Knight for his help!!!
Martin

pp000830

Any aftermarket HID kit for $60 can replace both the bulb and the ballast if one orders a kit with the slim ballast it all fits inside the headlamp pod. The kits include an H1 style bulb that fits in the non-litronic lamp pod it may also fit the litronic pod standard on the Turbo. If not I would adapt the litronic pods or just purchase two Halogen bulb pods and update the low beam sockets with HID or LED bulbs and then leave the high beam halogen and be done with it. Then sell the old Litronic pods on eBay to offset the conversion cost.