Bilstein PSS10 993 coilovers Install help
#46
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Finally had the time to install these, took me about 8 hours doing it slowly. Not bad for a first time. Now she needs a corner balance and alignment. Don't know, I set the ride height to where I feel comfortable but after looking at it I might want to drop it a little more, will wait for corner balance and alignment shop to give me a hand with this. thoughts?
#48
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Thread Starter
#49
[*]Use a ZIP blade to cut the slot for the front brake lines so you do not have to break the line open. They are often corroded and can cause issues if trying to be undone
Cheers,
Mike[/QUOTE]
I am in the middle of doing my PSS10 install.
Where do you make the cut on the bracket for the brake line?
I am thinking it needs to be on the side. Do you, or anyone else have a pic of your cut?
Thanks,
Cheers,
Mike[/QUOTE]
I am in the middle of doing my PSS10 install.
Where do you make the cut on the bracket for the brake line?
I am thinking it needs to be on the side. Do you, or anyone else have a pic of your cut?
Thanks,
#51
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Sorry was not on-line.
I cut the slots on the side away from the shock, and the width is a tiny bit wider than the metal part of the hose that has to clear it. It may make the retaining clip a bit harder to put back on, but it will hold find since it will span the cut-out.
Cheers,
Mike
I cut the slots on the side away from the shock, and the width is a tiny bit wider than the metal part of the hose that has to clear it. It may make the retaining clip a bit harder to put back on, but it will hold find since it will span the cut-out.
Cheers,
Mike
#52
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry was not on-line.
I cut the slots on the side away from the shock, and the width is a tiny bit wider than the metal part of the hose that has to clear it. It may make the retaining clip a bit harder to put back on, but it will hold find since it will span the cut-out.
Cheers,
Mike
I cut the slots on the side away from the shock, and the width is a tiny bit wider than the metal part of the hose that has to clear it. It may make the retaining clip a bit harder to put back on, but it will hold find since it will span the cut-out.
Cheers,
Mike
#53
The 993's have a really simple suspension setup, so just go for it - there is enough information around (and above) so you should not be too tentative about it. For the fronts, struts are out with two bolts on the bottom, and the four tower nuts on the top. Back is similar, drop the toe links (marking the eccentric first), then pull out the shock by undoing the top tower nuts.
You do not need a spring compressor to remove the tower hats - you can use an impact guy if you do not care about the old shocks. Just use common sense, transfer all the plastic hold downs from one to another, and reinstall. The shop manual (downloadable) has all the torque specifications. Once you are done, you will need an alignment.
Cheers,
Mike
You do not need a spring compressor to remove the tower hats - you can use an impact guy if you do not care about the old shocks. Just use common sense, transfer all the plastic hold downs from one to another, and reinstall. The shop manual (downloadable) has all the torque specifications. Once you are done, you will need an alignment.
Cheers,
Mike
Regards Robert
#54
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Rennlist does not allow us to publish links to any of copyrighted materials - but Google is your friend :-)
You will need to search for the static height settings - the ones on the rear are a pain since if you need to move the sway bar mount bracket (threaded on the body of the shock) you will need to pull the shock out. The height is adjustable with the shock installed unless you butt up against that sway bar mount, then you will need to pull both rears. I am sure someone will chime in, I think I have it written on notes in the shop, will need to look. I have not put in a set of PSS-10's for a while, guys seem to be preferring KW V3's lately, and they have a welded perch for the sway bars. The downside of that is you need adjustable links if you use different sway bars ....
Cheers
Mike
You will need to search for the static height settings - the ones on the rear are a pain since if you need to move the sway bar mount bracket (threaded on the body of the shock) you will need to pull the shock out. The height is adjustable with the shock installed unless you butt up against that sway bar mount, then you will need to pull both rears. I am sure someone will chime in, I think I have it written on notes in the shop, will need to look. I have not put in a set of PSS-10's for a while, guys seem to be preferring KW V3's lately, and they have a welded perch for the sway bars. The downside of that is you need adjustable links if you use different sway bars ....
Cheers
Mike
#55
Rennlist does not allow us to publish links to any of copyrighted materials - but Google is your friend :-)
You will need to search for the static height settings - the ones on the rear are a pain since if you need to move the sway bar mount bracket (threaded on the body of the shock) you will need to pull the shock out. The height is adjustable with the shock installed unless you butt up against that sway bar mount, then you will need to pull both rears. I am sure someone will chime in, I think I have it written on notes in the shop, will need to look. I have not put in a set of PSS-10's for a while, guys seem to be preferring KW V3's lately, and they have a welded perch for the sway bars. The downside of that is you need adjustable links if you use different sway bars ....
Cheers
Mike
You will need to search for the static height settings - the ones on the rear are a pain since if you need to move the sway bar mount bracket (threaded on the body of the shock) you will need to pull the shock out. The height is adjustable with the shock installed unless you butt up against that sway bar mount, then you will need to pull both rears. I am sure someone will chime in, I think I have it written on notes in the shop, will need to look. I have not put in a set of PSS-10's for a while, guys seem to be preferring KW V3's lately, and they have a welded perch for the sway bars. The downside of that is you need adjustable links if you use different sway bars ....
Cheers
Mike
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Bob102 (12-20-2019)
#57
Rennlist Member
Hey all,
On the pss10 installation instructions, it provides this diagram on how to lock in the rear perches. My question is in relation to what? I'm assuming it's the angle when it's already mounted in the car (so front and rear of the car)?
Edwin
On the pss10 installation instructions, it provides this diagram on how to lock in the rear perches. My question is in relation to what? I'm assuming it's the angle when it's already mounted in the car (so front and rear of the car)?
Edwin