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Bilstein PSS10 993 coilovers Install help

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Old 11-21-2013, 09:46 AM
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993Godspeed
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Default Bilstein PSS10 993 coilovers Install help

Hello everyone, I bought a set of PSS10s for my 993 and have searched hi and low for some guidance in installation. Can anyone lend some install advice? I could go to a shop but If not difficult I would like to make an attempt and install myself not to mention a shop would probably charge me a nifty price to install. I am OK with a wrench and have done quite a few things to my car on my own. I have access to a lift and all the tools in the world. Thanks for any advice.
Old 11-21-2013, 10:42 AM
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nrubenstein
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If the rears are like the regular Bilsteins, make sure you crank the adjusters/sway bar perches tight, or else they will turn when the sway gets loaded.

For the fronts, make sure you get replacement plastic for holding the wiring. At least I couldn't see any way to get them off the old struts without breaking the clips.

Beyond that, it's pretty easy. Probably the most complicated part is getting the various blower motors and intake boxes off of the engine so that you can reach the strut hats.

If you are time constrained, consider picking up a set of rear strut hats. On our 98k mile car, they were pretty cracked. The fronts were fine, though.
Old 11-21-2013, 01:50 PM
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993Godspeed
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Thanks for the feedback!
Old 11-21-2013, 03:10 PM
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Slate993tt
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Just make sure you go to a place for alignment that fully understands what they are doing when aligning a LOWERED 993. There is a trick for proper adjustment on the rear.
Old 11-21-2013, 03:56 PM
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Mike J
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I think if you search around there is a lot of distributed info. A couple of other hints:
  • Use a sharpie to mark the positions of the eccentrics so you can roughly get them back into their original positions
  • You will need an machined socket or one with a crowsfoot welded onto it to torque the hats. Use a very good allen socket or wrap it in tape and drive it in - the machined allen socket on the top of the bilstein shock rods tend to strip out
  • If you are doing the shocks, replace the front suspension bushings as well - they are almost always cracked. Walrod's are great.
  • Check the front bearings on the top hats, they often get crunchy and fail. you will need to replace the entire top hat to replace the bearing
  • I agree, its good advice to have spares for the plastic bits on the front shock towers (like the plug holders, etc.).
  • Use a ZIP blade to cut the slot for the front brake lines so you do not have to break the line open. They are often corroded and can cause issues if trying to be undone.
  • entertain using Tarett toe control arms - if installed at this point and an alignment is done, you can drop the shocks and engine without another alignment.
  • You do not need a spring compressor - just wing the old shock top nut off with an impact gun. Put on the top hats with the shock bottom perch dialed down so there is not that much pressure - but I find there is not much residual spring pressure if the height is set low on the car.

Otherwise, the job is pretty straightforward, and well within the capabilities for a DIY.

Cheers,

Mike
Old 11-21-2013, 04:16 PM
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nrubenstein
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Originally Posted by Mike J
I think if you search around there is a lot of distributed info. A couple of other hints:
  • Use a sharpie to mark the positions of the eccentrics so you can roughly get them back into their original positions
  • You will need an machined socket or one with a crowsfoot welded onto it to torque the hats. Use a very good allen socket or wrap it in tape and drive it in - the machined allen socket on the top of the bilstein shock rods tend to strip out
  • If you are doing the shocks, replace the front suspension bushings as well - they are almost always cracked. Walrod's are great.
  • Check the front bearings on the top hats, they often get crunchy and fail. you will need to replace the entire top hat to replace the bearing
  • I agree, its good advice to have spares for the plastic bits on the front shock towers (like the plug holders, etc.).
  • Use a ZIP blade to cut the slot for the front brake lines so you do not have to break the line open. They are often corroded and can cause issues if trying to be undone.
  • entertain using Tarett toe control arms - if installed at this point and an alignment is done, you can drop the shocks and engine without another alignment.
  • You do not need a spring compressor - just wing the old shock top nut off with an impact gun. Put on the top hats with the shock bottom perch dialed down so there is not that much pressure - but I find there is not much residual spring pressure if the height is set low on the car.

Otherwise, the job is pretty straightforward, and well within the capabilities for a DIY.

Cheers,

Mike
I would just add that when winging the top nut off of any strut assembly, I make a point of laying the thing on its side on the floor. HOLD THE IMPACT GUN LOOSELY so that it can kick back freely. If there is more load than expected, you don't want to hurt your wrist.
Old 11-21-2013, 04:27 PM
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993Godspeed
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Originally Posted by Mike J
I think if you search around there is a lot of distributed info. A couple of other hints:
  • Use a sharpie to mark the positions of the eccentrics so you can roughly get them back into their original positions
  • You will need an machined socket or one with a crowsfoot welded onto it to torque the hats. Use a very good allen socket or wrap it in tape and drive it in - the machined allen socket on the top of the bilstein shock rods tend to strip out
    [*]If you are doing the shocks, replace the front suspension bushings as well - they are almost always cracked. Walrod's are great.
  • Check the front bearings on the top hats, they often get crunchy and fail. you will need to replace the entire top hat to replace the bearing
  • I agree, its good advice to have spares for the plastic bits on the front shock towers (like the plug holders, etc.).
  • Use a ZIP blade to cut the slot for the front brake lines so you do not have to break the line open. They are often corroded and can cause issues if trying to be undone.
  • entertain using Tarett toe control arms - if installed at this point and an alignment is done, you can drop the shocks and engine without another alignment.
  • You do not need a spring compressor - just wing the old shock top nut off with an impact gun. Put on the top hats with the shock bottom perch dialed down so there is not that much pressure - but I find there is not much residual spring pressure if the height is set low on the car.

Otherwise, the job is pretty straightforward, and well within the capabilities for a DIY.

Cheers,

Mike
Mike thanks for the great write up!

Question, Wont the PSS10 come with the entire assembly of shocks and springs? I assume this will replace my stock shocks as well. no? I was under the impression it would. Thanks.
Old 11-21-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 993Godspeed
Mike thanks for the great write up!

Question, Wont the PSS10 come with the entire assembly of shocks and springs? I assume this will replace my stock shocks as well. no? I was under the impression it would. Thanks.
These are the bushings in the control arm. It's a separate (attached) assembly, but you should do it before paying for an alignment. Walrod (heh, the iPad wanted to autocorrect that to "Warlord") bushings are $100 and have a good reputation.
Old 11-21-2013, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nrubenstein
I would just add that when winging the top nut off of any strut assembly, I make a point of laying the thing on its side on the floor. HOLD THE IMPACT GUN LOOSELY so that it can kick back freely. If there is more load than expected, you don't want to hurt your wrist.
Hmm, never had this issue. I mount the shock in the bench vice by the shock base so its solidly secure, and then use the gun. Sometimes the shaft of the shock has to be held because its spinning, I usually just use a plastic lined set of pliers to hold it still enough, with an impact gun that is all that is usually needed. I would hesitate to have hits on the floor free riding, it would be hard to secure it and hold the shaft still and hold onto the impact gun.

I also use my bench vice to hold the new shocks/spring, especially when torquing the top nut.

Lots of different techniques here, good discussion. :-

Cheers,

Mike
Old 11-21-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike J
Hmm, never had this issue. I mount the shock in the bench vice by the shock base so its solidly secure, and then use the gun. Sometimes the shaft of the shock has to be held because its spinning, I usually just use a plastic lined set of pliers to hold it still enough, with an impact gun that is all that is usually needed. I would hesitate to have hits on the floor free riding, it would be hard to secure it and hold the shaft still and hold onto the impact gun.

I also use my bench vice to hold the new shocks/spring, especially when torquing the top nut.

Lots of different techniques here, good discussion. :-

Cheers,

Mike
This is more important for heavily preloaded springs. I take the view that we never really know exactly how much preload there is, so why risk it?

My technique to get the nut off is to "bump" the gun. I've (so far) never failed to get the nut off by repeatedly stopping and starting. If I want/need things secure, I usually just take the top nut off in the car and use the jack to decompress.
Old 11-21-2013, 08:17 PM
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I use the technique that, with the shock in the vice, I just pull down on the hat. If I can make the hat leave the top nut, then the springs are not that loaded. If I cannot pull it down, then I dial down the lower perch if possible, and try again. If still not, then I pull out the spring compressor... not fancy but it seems to work.



Cheers,

Mike
Old 11-21-2013, 09:54 PM
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Fair enough. I grant that my technique is more generic. A stock BMW E30 strut will fire the impact gun into the ceiling if you clamp it.
Old 11-22-2013, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 993Godspeed
Hello everyone, I bought a set of PSS10s for my 993 and have searched hi and low for some guidance in installation. Can anyone lend some install advice? I could go to a shop but If not difficult I would like to make an attempt and install myself not to mention a shop would probably charge me a nifty price to install. I am OK with a wrench and have done quite a few things to my car on my own. I have access to a lift and all the tools in the world. Thanks for any advice.
send me a pm with your email.
I'll send you a complete install guide originally created by a RL'er "intheair"

MANY of us have used this guide to install coilovers
Old 11-22-2013, 08:16 AM
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I found troublesome (993 C4S) getting the rear perch to accept the PSS10 kit supplied drop-links. Took 100 miles and they parted ways out of their rubber bushings as no matter how tight I made the keeper against the top of the link perch; it moved clockwise under driving loads ! Is there a starting point metric range height sweet spot for matching the supplied drop-links onto it's PSS10 perch ? I ask as the perch can be adjusted just once; once installed you cannot move (a full turn) it up or down. Also, that top-hat supplied metal bushing, for some reason I hear it clapping over rough roads.

Just saying, that the stock factory rears' link perch is solid and will not move under driving loads.

Last edited by C4S993; 11-22-2013 at 09:39 AM.
Old 11-22-2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cgfen
send me a pm with your email.
I'll send you a complete install guide originally created by a RL'er "intheair"

MANY of us have used this guide to install coilovers
Very kind! Pm sent


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