Guys, the car had agreed value insurance, so I got exactly what I was knew I would. There was no haggling for price or market comparison research, etc. If you don't have this type of insurance, I would research it, especially as these vehicles are appreciating every year and, as carmstrong so sensitively put it, they are becoming more rare.
That number is what I paid for the car back in 04' which is probably a few k short of getting me into an equivalent car today, if I could find one just like it.

 

Anyone have suggestion regarding buying midcont's salvaged example at Copart ? I am in Pa which does not require a Broker buy the car and then sell the car back to me; I would rather pay cash at the Copart auction and have it towed to my Mohawk mid-rise. However when I bid, Copart tells me a need to go through a Broker; sort of like paying a 'dealer" $$$ to bid for me at Manheim. Why do States restrict private purchases at Salvage Auctions ?

Found another example for sale at same Copart auction as midcont's example:
http://www.easyexport.us/cars-for-sa...E_911_15648492

 

I have noted this before and the statement is tempered by ones ability to do some of the work themselves. My turbo was a flood salvage. The modules under the seat were replace, connectors cleaned with a contact cleaner that leaves a protective film. No issues. I enjoy the car because it is a salvage car and will never hold "collector" status. Rock chip on the track does not create sleepless nights.

If the title is issued as a salvage the car must be brought back to full DOT standards and be inspected by State Police or DMV. The one to look out for is when it says Title of Non-Repair. That is then a parts car. Never hurts to double check with your local DMV.Someone buy this thing for a track car and never look back.

 

Thanks Essexmetal. After a few hours of Google'ng Copart I was turned off, but you have renewed my interest. How was the flooded Immobilizer on your Salvage example ? The Radio Amp had to be DOA. The perspective I have is that this example was once a RL; so we know it wasn't stolen and hence trashed. If it has the stock Suspension (I hope) and no aftermarket solutions, I plan on being there for the Auction. No chance I would trust just a few pics. However, I was figuring $18.5k with $12k on a engine reseal+valve job, $2k for Brain, $? for Immobilizer, $4k for CAT and perhaps Exhaust Cans as these had to be 100% Flooded. So I would be around $40-$42k invested (not counting Broker+Auction Fees), which is almost inline with the 40% drop value just based on it's Salvage Title. However, Bidding has moved up to $22.6k, so the only way I could make the Math add up is if my Gut tells me the Engine requires just a Valve Guide service ($7k).

Patrick

 

Get to the chopper!!!! Do it noooooowwww!!

 

I don't think the valve guides are the issue here. The issue is whether the water was able to cause enough corrosion on the internals to cause an issue. A little surface rust on the cylinders may not be a big issue, but if you have more serious corrosion, it will get price fast. The problem with all this is that without opening it up, its hard to know what the inside looks like.

While there certainly is some appeal, id say it would be more so as a parts car. The cylinder heads, crank case, crank, etc would be worth some good money. The seats could probably be saved, calipers, wheels, fan, etc.

That said, selling all this stuff may be difficult and take a while.

 

Quadcammer: It would be $7k just to drop it, remove heads, ,and change the rings. Might as well reinstall refurbished heads. I figure $12k.

Patrick

 

Last time I checkd it was 4K for a top end rebuild.

 

You guys are dreaming if it's just the top end- the engine with the turbos were possibly underwater. This means other than castings, lost of things are likely toast. Normal engine rebuild numbers do not count here - since the engine was likely not flushed with fresh fluids immediately, you will need to strip the engine down and split the case, refurbish all moving parts, all new bearings, never mind the turbo's and everything else. If the crankshaft has rust sufficient for pitting, throw that out or pay the bucks for refurbishing. Same goes for the barrels/pistons/fuel pump/abs pump/ABD pump/electronics/turbos/wheel bearings/CV joints, they might just require a touchup, but be toast too.

Its possible the water got into the transmission and displaced the oil there (with the breather vent on the top of the transmission), which means that very expensive gearbox may just need an oil change, or a complete teardown.

Then there if the front differentia, same thing. And the clutch - that flywheel likely is full of rust now given all the bare polished metal.

You might be able to make some money if you treat it as a parts car though...

Personally, I thing this would be a fun challenge, but I just did some quick math and it became quite apparent that the cost of getting this car back on the road, and its value as a rebuilt car will not give me much if no headroom to make any money.

If you are REALLY lucky, perhaps the driveline/engine will be OK. I supposed it may be worth the risk to take, worse case just sell it for parts.

Cheers,

Mike

 

Hmmm . . . maybe some car show could purchase it and show the world how to turn it back to gold - parts or as a working car. I wonder how spongy the seats are - if they got wet?

I was hoping a 993 would be like a toyota Hilux sent into the sea.

 

I have seen many of these cars are being sent overseas, where the numbers for repair and resale start to make more sense.

Regardless, its intriguing because we are all enthusiasts on this board that want to save a car like this because it deserves saving....

Godspeed
A

 

Next question then would be... How high did the water get.

Then the next question... How long did the car stay submerged.

 

Patrick, As I understand mine was up to the dash top and water sat in the car at low levels for months. When I got it the was operating with repaired electrics but the floor sound deadening foam was still soaked. The one thing that makes the Copart car perhaps have a larger issue is it was in salt water. Given that not much time has passed if you were to get the car I would approach it in two stages. Do all the fluids and get it running. Based on what you find, approach the more aggressive repairs after that. Most components are able to withstand salty submersion but in reality the are waterproof not submersion proof. The vents for the engine and trans would restrict mass amounts of water intrusion depending on how long it was under.

I recently upgraded my motor at 48k miles. There were some corroded fasteners to the same level I see them on Porsche that have seen Michigan's salted winter roads. The inside was immaculate and if any water did enter the motor it did not leave any noticeable evidence. Something to consider is making it a nice driver and don't get caught up in taking it back to new or for that matter factory correct. You would get caught up spending funds on something it will never be, a clean title collectors car.

 

more..https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/Search...eyword=porsche

 

It is up to $28,000 at the moment. Today, COPART changed auction to "ON APPROVAL" from it's original "PURE SALE". Thus, I guess now the insurance company, that actually now owns this example, has to accept and approve the final high bidder's bid. If the final bid is not approved, then it is offered anew at auction in the "FUTURE." Auction ends this Friday. If the insurance company figured this example was not worth fixing, why the change in bid status ?

Patrick