White/Black/Burlwood 993; intro and questions
#1
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Thread Starter
White/Black/Burlwood 993; intro and questions
Greetings, longtime rennlister mostly on the racing board, finally 'took delivery' of the '96 993tt I technically bought about a year ago (long story) First owner was a friend.
Good news is it has a mere 37K miles from new. Bad news is that it wasn't exactly babied: sat outside a lot, driven on salty winter roads, casual maintenance.
Driving home from the pickup-up rendezvous, I had a serious shimmy at 65, and a throbbing, squishy brake pedal. Pulling off the wheel today, I discovered the rotors are a disaster, and the pads are corroded and jammed in the caliper and not retracting. I bled the lines and discovered huge amounts of air; apparently stuck pads had gotten hot enough to boil the fluid. So at a minimum I'm in for new rotors and pads. Meanwhile I freed up the pads, bled the lines and a test drive made some progress cleaning up the rust.
A couple complete newbie questions:
Oops, what are those lug nuts made of??? Probably shouldn't have used air tools on them they look soft. AL? Ti?
What is going on with the security system? At first I thought battery was low, but when a battery booster made no difference, remembered something my friend said about cycling the alarm button.
Is this wood trim inside factory?? Not my cup of tea but I'll bet it was expensive.
Finally, I know this may be sacrilege, but is there a good snow tire folks use on this car? As long as my control arms already look like they are growing fur, I'm not going to do much more damage driving in February.
Thanks in advance, this forum was very helpful as I was deciding whether to pick this up.
Good news is it has a mere 37K miles from new. Bad news is that it wasn't exactly babied: sat outside a lot, driven on salty winter roads, casual maintenance.
Driving home from the pickup-up rendezvous, I had a serious shimmy at 65, and a throbbing, squishy brake pedal. Pulling off the wheel today, I discovered the rotors are a disaster, and the pads are corroded and jammed in the caliper and not retracting. I bled the lines and discovered huge amounts of air; apparently stuck pads had gotten hot enough to boil the fluid. So at a minimum I'm in for new rotors and pads. Meanwhile I freed up the pads, bled the lines and a test drive made some progress cleaning up the rust.
A couple complete newbie questions:
Oops, what are those lug nuts made of??? Probably shouldn't have used air tools on them they look soft. AL? Ti?
What is going on with the security system? At first I thought battery was low, but when a battery booster made no difference, remembered something my friend said about cycling the alarm button.
Is this wood trim inside factory?? Not my cup of tea but I'll bet it was expensive.
Finally, I know this may be sacrilege, but is there a good snow tire folks use on this car? As long as my control arms already look like they are growing fur, I'm not going to do much more damage driving in February.
Thanks in advance, this forum was very helpful as I was deciding whether to pick this up.
#2
Drifting
Welcome and congrats on the car!
If you do a search on this forum + 993 section, shimmy usually = front control arm bushings replacement, most will suggest Walrod or Elephant racing. However could be alignment too. The shimmy search will lead to lots of threads to read thru....
Yes the lug nuts are alum, you can probably tell right away by the weight.
That is also the root wood option, highly unlikely someone put it on afterwards but hey you never know. You might want to decode your option list (check under your hood for the options code) to 100% confirm.
I would start by re-programming your key fobs, you'll need a 4 digit code. It's usually on a wallet size card maybe in your owner's manual area, or sometimes a PO might have noted the code on the page.
Instructions here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=66189
No help on the snow tires here, mine usually doesn't touch snow.
Cheers!
If you do a search on this forum + 993 section, shimmy usually = front control arm bushings replacement, most will suggest Walrod or Elephant racing. However could be alignment too. The shimmy search will lead to lots of threads to read thru....
Yes the lug nuts are alum, you can probably tell right away by the weight.
That is also the root wood option, highly unlikely someone put it on afterwards but hey you never know. You might want to decode your option list (check under your hood for the options code) to 100% confirm.
I would start by re-programming your key fobs, you'll need a 4 digit code. It's usually on a wallet size card maybe in your owner's manual area, or sometimes a PO might have noted the code on the page.
Instructions here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=66189
No help on the snow tires here, mine usually doesn't touch snow.
Cheers!
#3
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Welcome Brandon ! Great looking car with some unique interior options with the rootwood. I've never seen it that extensively optioned.
On the topic of snow tires there are many threads both on the 993TT and 993 boards. Some of the more recent useful threads include:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
Enjoy the new car !
Geoff
On the topic of snow tires there are many threads both on the 993TT and 993 boards. Some of the more recent useful threads include:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght=snow+tires
Enjoy the new car !
Geoff
#4
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Not sure if he needs to reprogram the fobs - it sounds like it's either the timeouts or just the way the alarm system works.
have not seen that much corrosion on rotors before - wow!
Cheers,
Mike
have not seen that much corrosion on rotors before - wow!
Cheers,
Mike
#6
Nordschleife Master
On the alarm system... you'll soon learn the "immobilizer dance". Turn the key to the fully on position. You'll notice that the warnings lights extinguish themselves... except one in the approx 4:00 position on the clock guage. That is the immobilizer light. NOW, push the button on the key fob. The light goes off and the car is ready to start. Congrats on your new turbo.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the guidance, advice and thread links. I know how to search but as you know, search results are highly variable!
Terrific, thanks. I drove again this weekend and I think the brake pistons are now retracting ok. The side in the photo was so bad I think because of massive amounts of air in the line; it simply wasn't being pressed hard enough to evenly clean the rotor.
I spent some time attempting to decode the options without much success. Many numbers appear not to be in the various dbases.
AL lug nuts is a first for me. I was moving fast and didn't notice the light weight until I scooped the pile up off the floor. I definitely damaged a few using the impact gun, but judging by appearances I wasn't the first. So I will add that to the grocery list. Anyone make a Ti alternative? I also have some sort of anti-theft lugnut on there which I will replace with a real one. Seems contradictory to go to the unsprung/reciprocating weight extreme of aluminum, then add a balance-threatening heavy steel security device, but such is life.
Yep that's a lot of wood. Somebody wanted it to feel like the inside of a yacht or old cabin cruiser. Oh well.
Got it thanks.
The shimmy search will lead to lots of threads to read thru....
Yes the lug nuts are alum, you can probably tell right away by the weight.
That is also the root wood option, highly unlikely someone put it on afterwards but hey you never know. You might want to decode your option list (check under your hood for the options code) to 100% confirm.
Cheers!
Yes the lug nuts are alum, you can probably tell right away by the weight.
That is also the root wood option, highly unlikely someone put it on afterwards but hey you never know. You might want to decode your option list (check under your hood for the options code) to 100% confirm.
Cheers!
I spent some time attempting to decode the options without much success. Many numbers appear not to be in the various dbases.
AL lug nuts is a first for me. I was moving fast and didn't notice the light weight until I scooped the pile up off the floor. I definitely damaged a few using the impact gun, but judging by appearances I wasn't the first. So I will add that to the grocery list. Anyone make a Ti alternative? I also have some sort of anti-theft lugnut on there which I will replace with a real one. Seems contradictory to go to the unsprung/reciprocating weight extreme of aluminum, then add a balance-threatening heavy steel security device, but such is life.
Got it thanks.
#10
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Thread Starter
Supercup
Supercup ran in '95/'96 driven by Danny Pfeil sponsored by Beru spark plugs. It then ran for 5 years in Germany in GTP series where it won it's class once or twice. I acquired about 5 yrs ago but by that time my son was racing FF so all it saw was DEs mostly at NJMP. Last Aug I raced for the first time since '04, co-driving an enduro with my kid which was a hoot. (he qualified 8th overall way ahead of many water cooled cup cars, but misses a shift badly at the start, so goes backward in somewhat hilarious fashion!)
#11
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AL lug nuts is a first for me. I was moving fast and didn't notice the light weight until I scooped the pile up off the floor. I definitely damaged a few using the impact gun, but judging by appearances I wasn't the first. So I will add that to the grocery list. Anyone make a Ti alternative? I also have some sort of anti-theft lugnut on there which I will replace with a real one. Seems contradictory to go to the unsprung/reciprocating weight extreme of aluminum, then add a balance-threatening heavy steel security device, but such is life.
You do not need a Ti alternative, just do not use impact wrenches on the nuts, they are plenty strong for their designed use. I do an initial loosen using a breaker bar, and then roll the nuts off with a small impact driver, the same goes for putting them back on. Very little impact that way, and its still quicker than totally doing it by hand. Torquing properly is important as well, 96 ft-lbs does it.
Cheers,
Mike
#13
Drifting
#15
I have the Boothe Design stainless lugs
http://www.boothedesign.com/boltsstudslugs.html
Heavier than allum no doubt but with 450 horses I dont think it will make much difference. They should last a lifetime! I too have ditched the locker, to be honest they can be removed in seconds with these;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pc-1-2-Fl...item27cbfefda9
http://www.boothedesign.com/boltsstudslugs.html
Heavier than allum no doubt but with 450 horses I dont think it will make much difference. They should last a lifetime! I too have ditched the locker, to be honest they can be removed in seconds with these;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pc-1-2-Fl...item27cbfefda9