andrewlunka

Ok so I found the post on the Ultimate PPI and I added some things to it. Is there anything missing?
Also what should I look for in the service history as 'normal' maintenance, besides oil changes? These are some things that I found.
1)Timing belt replacement (expensive)
2)Plugs and wires, ( around 1200.00 just parts)
3)brake pads (400.00 just parts),
4)air conditioning service,

ULTIMATE PPI:

TEST DRIVE
• full throttle in 2nd (once warm), ensure 0.8bar boost (not "limp home mode") and check for clutch slippage
• idle at 880 +/- 40rpm
• make sure no stall on quick stop with A/C on
• check for wheel rub (full left/right lock while forward/reverse)
• test ABS (ABD if possible)
• watch temps.
• Ensure oil thermostat opens
• listen for oil cooler fan speeds at stop
• Check braking (no shudder/squeal/pull to either side)
• Ensure smooth power steering
• downshift into 1st at ~15mph to ensure easy engagement, no odd noises
• upshift and downshift into 2nd at a variety of speeds, ensure no cruchiness
– or notchiness
• whilst rolling (5+ mph) in first depress the clutch and listen. Any whining is a bad sign

TURBOS
• check for oil leakage
• look inside pipes (turbo to intercooler) for oil
• check weak turbo hoses on the earlier cars
• Worn Turbo Bearings - If the car has been driven very hard and the previous owner didn't let the turbos cool off before shutting off the engine, damage to the Turbo bearings could occur and start to leak. Have the mechanic check the Turbos for oil leakage. If the bearings are leaking, the Turbos must be replaced. They aren't cheap.

CLUTCH
• ensure no “clicking” or “hanging up” in clutch pedal motion (engine stopped and running) points to slave cylinder problems
• no signs of slippage
• accumulator
• check for hard pedal before start
• check for pentosin leaks from accumulator/slave

DRIVETRAIN
• visually inspect rear diff., viscous coupler, front diff. (for leaks, damage)
• check rubber CV joint boots for tearing/cracking
• check Transfer case leaks or breakage


ENGINE
- compression test all six cylinders
• 140-155 psi. Most important thing is to have a small variance between cylinders (less than 15%).
• Do the compression check with the throttle wide open.
• consistency cylinder-to-cylinder is more important than the ultimate number
• perform a leakdown test on all six (2 hr work) (replace the spark plugs)
• write down where the leakage was. Crankcase, intake or exhaust
• 1 to 2% is perfect
• 3 to 5% normal
• 6 and 7 % wear setting in
• 8% kiss your money in your wallet goodbye
• 9 and 10% worn guides, possible cylinder liner problems
- check serial number – should begin with “61V” (1996) or "61T" (1997)
- check distributor, coil(s), plug wires for visible damage
- check engine tray (if installed) for oil deposits
- check for all fuses/relays (match w/ diagram on box cover)
- check valve covers, timing chain covers for leaks
-Hydraulic tappets
-Valve lifter failures (esp. exhaust side)
-Longevity of basic pipes (i.e. intercooler oil)
Valve wear:
-Listen intently for any excessive tappet noise, especially on the exhaust side, since that is a common problem in higher mileage cars. Slapping tappets may be indicative of more expensive valve wear.
Fan cooler
-check fan cooler. Symptom, oil temp. goes up to ten o'clock on the gauge when stuck in traffic. Anything over eight o'clock with engine off but ignition on should have the oil cooler fan running at slow speed. If it doesn't it means this resistor has failed. It's in series on the low speed circuit of the fan. There's different solutions on this board for this one but all I did was bridge this resistor causing it to run at high speed when oil temps come up to eight on the gauge

ECU/DME
• (OBDII) read fault/readiness codes
• -See if shop can hook up to ECU and print engine hours, and error codes
• -CEL (Cash Evaporation Light)
• -CEL leading to a valve job.
• -CEL for blocked air injection (I think this was only for the NA 993, not the Turbo)

WARNING LIGHTS
– all come on with key on, extinguish upon start
- make sure CEL not tripped (check OBDII to rule out removed bulb)
-check LCDdisplay on OBC for full functionality
Carbon Build-up Problem
• Additionally, the engine light may come on because of a problem with some small holes in the air pump lines getting blocked because of a carbon buildup problem.

CLIMATE
- A/C blows cold
- heat blows hot
- all climate control functions work (buttons/switches functioning)

STEERING
- check steering rack for leaks
- check rubber boots for tearing or cracking
- inspect p/s pump for leakage
-Steering bushes @ 55k
-Other steering geometry
-Need for regular 4wd alignment

OIL LEAKS
- check under engine
- timing chain covers
- lower valve covers
- smoke on start?
- smoke once warm?

MISC
- tool kit present
- jack present
- air compressor present
- door locking (from all switches and remote)
- alarm
- number of key fobs

LIGHTS
- driving lights
- head lights
- tail lights
- 3rd brake light
- fog lights
- interior
- trunk/engine lid lights
- glove box
- all turn indicators, including hazards

BODY
- check for rust, especially near bottom corners of windshield seal and around seals
- remove headlights, check for impact damage/paint work/metal work
- any signs of impact damage
- check for even gaps either side of hood, trunk
- ensure engine bay stickers
- ensure sticker under luggage compartment (trunk) lid
- level “turbo” badge
- inspect for rolled fenders
- if possible – paint thickness meter?
- check for repainting/overspray around plastic, in door jams, etc.
- trunk
- look for corrosion (beneath fuel tank, brake reservoir, around bolts)
- check under spare wheel for rust, ensure drains OK
- look at ABS/ABD control unit for corrosion
- inspect for paint damage beneath hydraulic components
- check for small cracks in front bumper (should exist on 11yo car)
- install tow hook – should thread evenly and straight
- check taillight (condensation)
- remove rear bumper (front also if not too time consuming), check for repaint/metal repair underneath
- check seals (pour water down leading edge of doors, sunroof)
- check door for missing, clicking, loose straps/stops

INTERIOR
- check condition of vinyl/plastic/fabric
- check function of electric, heated seats
- power windows (ensure every switch works)
- test front wipers at all speeds (including delay)
- check windshield and headlight sprayers
- ensure function of rear wiper (if installed)
- defrost
- rear window, windshield, outside mirrors
- electric mirror controls work
- check AM/FM/CD/tape(?) for function
- check clock for function
- ensure sunroof opens, closes

Laura

May I ask what you think a PPI that covers all these items should cost?

andrewlunka

Lots of the stuff I can do (interior, body, lights...) I would just want them to go over the mechanical stuff. $600 or so.

dbf73

timing belt???? or did you mean chain and if so, is there really a std change interval?

Quadcammer

no

plugs and wires don't cost $1200 either for parts...more like $500 at most

ScottMellor

Laura,
Please, you tell us!

993MAN

Jeezis, if you came to look at my car (if I was selling) I would be hiding under a desk in a fetal position!
That really is one hell of a list you have. I had no idea this is what people checked on, what is now a 15 or 16 year old car. make sure you check the vanity mirror sliders work.
Have fun

993MAN

huh?

Andreas Langhoff (2nd reg)

I have no idea how you could do a leakdown test in 2 hours. I had one done in 5 hours (and I was standing next to the car; ok distracted by an italian aperitivo in the workshop with wine ans salami) but we could only check 5 cylinders.
For the last cylinder it would have been necessary to remove the turbo and part of the exhaust but since all 5 other cylinders were perfect we did not check the last one.
I would say in real life the ppi proposed is almost a joke. It will cost you at least 1k Usd per car checked.
andreas.

JPS

In an NA engine 2 hrs seems about right from what mechanics have said/charged, because they can get to the lower plugs on the twin plug engine easily. Not so, it seems, on the Turbos.

Quadcammer

there are no lower plugs on the turbo, making it a much more annoying affair.

ScottMellor

Youd have to take the whole flippen motor out to do this on El Guapo!

No HTwo O

I'd add by saying, pay for new plugs, and ask to see the 6 old ones.

IamSMC

With that list, you're bound to find something "wrong"...

Laura

Scott,
I would charge $650 for a 993TT. But I also would talk to a customer about this being a car that was worth buying in all other areas before I performed the compression and/or leakdown. And if it was I would quote 6 spark plugs to replace at this time.
I also think it is a good idea to always do a compression test during a major service when you are replacing plugs in these cars thru 1998.