KM

A couple of years ago I went through the smoking/leaking turbo scenarios that semm to be posted here every so often. Oil in inlet pipes and IC which I couldn't cure through filter changes. Wound up replacing both turbos with units from UMW, including the check valves. Have only put on maybe 2K miles since then, if that.

Recently I noticed some oil hitting the garage floor under the driver's side turbo. First thought was 'How did I screw up the install enough to toast a new turbo?". Checked the inlet pipe and IC which were both dry and it had been 10 months since last oil change. Hmmm. Pulled the wheel and voila, the check valve assembly was covered in an oily mess. A quick wipe and let sit overnight to see where the leak is coming from and this is what I find:




So now I need to figure out how to correct. Hopefully just a matter of tightening. But, with the angled top fitting (which connects to the oil line) and the subsequent connections below, I can't remember how they tightened up so that the angled fitting retains it's current 'directional orientation'. I don't want it to rotate any further rearwards or it will cause the oil line to rub. Can anyone tell me which sequence of loosening/tightening I need in order to have a shot at stopping the leak (and not disturbing the current fitting alignment)?

Separately, I keep wondering what are the chances that tightenign won't solve the problem and the assembly has somehow failed. Does anyone know if one of Kevin's units has ever failed? Hopefully not as the thought of replacing the whole assembly is not appealing because the access to it simply sucks. Removing the muffler bracket would make it soooo much better but its amazing how much other 'stuff' needs to come off in order to access all the bolts.

Would appreciate any words of wisdom from the more experienced wrenches out there.

Kevin

No HTwo O

KM, I had a very-very similar issue.

The prior Rennlist owner of my car did the came thing in the summer of 2009. He replaced the turbochargers on my car with UMW's and had Kevin's check valves installed. Early in my ownership, February 2010 (4 months into owning) the drivers side check valve started leaking, very slightly.

My indy replaced the check valve with Kevin's new & updated line on that side (I still have the passangers side in a box for a future 'while you're in there project'). I have put almost 20,000 miles the car since then, without issues. IMHO, I feel that Kevin should have warrantied the part, but in fairness I never asked, and never thought about it till a much later time period. At the time, I was just happy to be back on the road again, leak-free.

Felix

Is it leaking from the threads?

KM

NOH20 - How does the updated part differ? Is it just the oil line or also the check valve/fittings?

Felix - Yes. It does appear to be leaking from the threads between the angled fitting and the nut below.

No HTwo O

KM, I'm not sure. I think it's the fitting. Ask Kevin, or search here. Kevin recently talked about it in another thread. Sorry I don't know more.

No HTwo O

KM, there is some info here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...valve-kit.html

hal m

What he said. I had the same issue and we replaced the fittings with Kevin's updated ones and no problem since

Felix

I bought a set of lines in 2007 and Kevin recommended using Permatex 54540 to seal the threads between the valve and the adapter. One of them leaked anyway so I had to redo it. 2 years later one leaked again so I resealed it again and it was fine until I sold the car. So you may wish to try that.

But beware - getting it into the oil is v bad for your turbos and in this instance less is more. Kevin's words from 2007 - "You put a small drop of sealant on the middle of the male threads not the bottom because it could wick into the oil galley.. Which isn't good for the turbo bearings."

KM

I used the permatex as well (sparingly). Sounds like I'm looking at more than just a quick tightening of the fittings. Frustrating this version of the valve assembly isn't more robust.

Rather than take the chance of needing to pull it apart again in the near future, I'll bite the bullet and get the updated version. Hopefully Kevin has one ready to ship out right away. The only 'me' time I have in the next several weeks is this Saturday. If anyone has his number handy would appreciate a pm so I can reach him this afternoon.
Tks

No HTwo O

http://ultimatemotorwerks.com/

Basal Skull

Before taking it apart or putting a new one in, I would just tighten the nut below the threaded angled fitting(while holding this fitting so it doesn't move and cause rubbing of the line). This is the last nut you need to tighten when installing after adjusting the angled piece and I think people forget to tighten it well.

BigInJapan

Hi phone# is: (360) 805-9066. For some reason he doesn't post it on his website.

If he doesn't have one ready to ship immediately, I have a new (updated, purchased 1 month ago) one in the box I was going to put on this last weekend. I stopped short of install because I think my turbos need a rebuild.

PM me if he can't help you...I could always order another kit next week.

Ian

KM

Reached Kevin yesterday. His opinion is a pinched o-ring in the fitting. If that's the case, then likely not an issue with tightening. I did get a wrench on it just to double check and got very little movement, so doesn't appear to be a tightness issue.

Kevin does think a replacement fitting/o-ring will solve the problem so I'll give that a try first. He can send one out right away which is a plus.

Thanks for the offer Ian. Hopefully this works out.

Kevin

KM

Update. Kevin sent me a new fitting. Was able to get the leaking one off without removing the muffler bracket. I did remove the bumper cover and IC which allowed room to get leverage on two wrenches in the still limited space. Also let me have one arm in and one out when reconnecting the oil line, preventing a cross thread.

Before installing the new, I compared both and couldn't see any noticeable issue with the original o-ring. Installed the replacement fitting and was careful to align and tighten. Started it up and let idle for awhile and all was dry. A short drive and day later all was still dry. For now the operation appears successful. Now to put on some miles (with boost) to confirm, and burn off the oil residue I couldn't fully clean.
Kevin