Taj

Hi All,
the car is a 96 tt.....so similar to the C4s and c4 up front.

Is it possible to remove an RS front sway bar and replace it with the original ROW Turbo sways......without removing the front struts?

The rears seem pretty straightforward but the intructions i have come across for the fronts have mentioned removing the struts to gain extra space...Is this really necessary or can i get the RS front bar out and the original back in with just a little perserverence?

thanks for your help,

taj

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Taj,

The front swaybar can be removed and replaced without pulling the struts. All it takes is some patience,....

chris walrod

And a lot of it

Taj

Ok, so it can be done......but how??

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Its pretty intuitive if you have a basic familarity with these cars and know where all the components are,...

Remove the drop links at each end.

Remove the bolts holding the bushing mounts and clamps.

Start wriggling the bar around to snake it out. It takes lots of twisting it around to fish it out.


IMHO, if you have not done this before and are largely unfamilair with these things, I would kindly suggest that you pull a strut to make this a LOT easier to extract. A professional can do this fairly easily but I think a DIY'er will find this frustrating unless one or both struts are removed. Without knowing your mechanical background & experience, its difficult for me (or anyone) to tell you the easiest way to do this for YOU,...

OldGuy

take a pic of the old one and then remove it by snaking it out. Then snake the new one back in.
it takes patients and believe me if I had patients I would be a doctor. But really Steve and Chris are
experts and I didnt have a clue. I just fished and fished it and RIGHT when I was going to give up it dropped in. Manhandling it will NOT work. I did NOT remove any struts. I just resigned myself that it
was going to take some time. If I remember right it took me a couple hours.

Taj

It's sunday...and i have a little more time to type so here is a bit of an update too.

Thanks for the advice....I had a 964 and was pretty handy...did a few jobs on it including taking it apart and putting it back together again for a respray. However, wrt the suspension on the 993, i want to avoid costly re-alignments etc. as this has just been done....Hence my question....Its booked with my indy for late march but the new drop links should be with me next week, and I have access to a ramp so getting the car up is easy...and I may be tempted to have a go myself seeing as the end of march is 6 weeks away.

So procedure would be :-
1) jack up front and remove both wheels as well as any undertrays at the front of the car.

2) then remove both droplinks as well as securing brackets and bushes.....

3) wriggle, curse, wriggle curse, curse, curse wriggle.....

4) eventual success

5) refitting is reverse of removal...

Something like that?

My indy did mention lowering wishbones to create more space..also someone else mentioned lowering the subframe.......right now, without looking at it i don't know what he was referring to. Anyone else know?

I have the patience...i think....so i may well give this a go...

Since I have had the car (6 weeks) I have done the pollen filters, the air filter, oil change and filters (4 hrs....very messy!), replace rear blower, fit cd changer and new radio, Tach OBC backlight transistor repair....list of other minor jobs to do....including removal of seat to secure seat motor and removal of alarm control unit to re-solder board


thanks again for the advice..view appreciated on the above..

chris walrod

removing the roll bar mounting clamp (as illustrated below) is the only real *fun* part of the process. I have resorted to lowering the sub frame that the front lower control arms mount to in efforts to remove these clamps. However, doing this would trigger the need for an alignment. I say this because the sub frames, one on each side, can be reinstalled in a different location as the bores in the subframes are slotted and will allow the subframes to be reinstalled in a different position, just slightly.

The forward tang on the roll bar mounting clamp slides into a slot on the subframe whereas the aft end of the clamp is a simply through bolted. See the below image.

To install the clamps over the rubber bushings, using a C-clamp to pull it down into place enough such that the aft through bolt will reach really helps.

At the end of the day, you may be faced with at least a front end realignment.

**ensure the new bar is offered-up to the car in the correct direction -- in other words, you can feed the barinto the car backwards only having to remove it and flip it around. BTDT