Barney1

Wow great write up...I just finished the same project a few months ago..

Basal Skull

Thanx guys
I'm going out to the garage to continue with the extensive break in procedure right now - or maybe in a few more minutes to let my neighbours wake up first...

to dremel and smooth out the welds? nope haven't done that. May be next time...!

MarkD

excellent write-up... thanks! This will be very useful to me this winter.

eclou

Excellent Smithers!

lruss

Great write up, wish youd posted last week, this past weekend i just did Kevins check valve wiith lines, i didnt remove the muffler brackets to do so, if i did my hands would look alot better than they do now.

ACEparts_com

Why don't people ream the manifolds out? I thought that was part of the performance upgrade?

WHB Porsche

Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to take pics and document it for us!

Kevin

Ryojo, it was a pleasure to meet you! Nice pictures of your install. BTW, the oil is getting put to use today..


Alan, there is risk for FOD damage to the new turbine wheels.. As the cars age, removing heat exchangers also increases the risk of shearing off exhaust/cylinder studs.

Basal Skull

Must have been hard to do it with the muffler brackets on... when I took the oil supply line off my old turbos, so much dirt got into the opening into the bearing that I thought it was dry/not getting oil properly.


Kevin, glad to be able to help with the oil.

cars running pretty good, planning to go for a short drive and Breakfast tomorrow AM with the PCA club guys here. Will have to really use my will power to restrain myself and keep it off boost!

jhargis

Fantastic writeup. This is quickly becoming my favorite website.

ACEparts_com

I've planned on sending the manifolds to an engineering shop to get them cleaned out and matched to the turbos. If as you say it's worth up to 10bhp then it's cheap bhp.

Targa Tim

Hey Ryojo,

Your car is too slow during this morning drive...

Glad to be able to help out a little with your install. Your mechanical skill is as good as your surgical skill.

Basal Skull

Tim! nice run this morning/good company as usual. I'm glad the roads were okay. Just finished washing some of the salt off the car. I kept the car off boost most of the time, up to 0.5 bar according to the digital gauge a couple of times as instructed in the break-in procedures. I'm half way to the 200 miles that I'm supposed to do this. I stayed at the back of the pack to not hold anyone up.

b8_rdc

Great thread that helped me a lot with installing a set of check valves in a '97 twin turbo this weekend. I wanted to add some additional tips to strengthen the wealth of knowledge in this old thread.

*check next page for pics*

Recommended tools:
-Magnetic pickup tool (aim at alternator square nuts for catch)
-17mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm. 9/16" combo wrenches (ratcheting ver a plus)
-24mm wrench (tighten the Turbo Kraft check valves)
-17mm deep socket 3/8" (for kit adapter inside engine bay)
-6mm deep socket (1/4" recommended) various heat shield nuts
-10mm allen socket for crash bar and bumperettes (or large allen key)
-NBH KR1 (or Gates 91107) v-belt tension tool
-Dremel w/ metal cutting wheel
-1/4" + 3/8" sockets w three various extensions and universal joints
-6mm allen 3/8" for Intercooler bolts + muffers
-Various hex bits w/ adapter for 1/4" socket (5mm allen, 6mm allen, phillips, etc)
-RTV, brake cleaner, MAF cleaner and Kroil optional but recommended

Disassemble Tips:
-Easy to miss the 5mm allen black hex bolts on top of rear light bar, remove those and then also loosen (but not fully remove) the skinny phillips nearby to help in removal of light bar. Torx bolts seen deep inside not needed to remove
-Fully disassemble the license plate light housings down to just the rubber boot and two wires, save rest of parts for reassembly later (must push through bumper)
-Intercooler must come out (8mm bolts for shield, then 7mm clamps & 6mm hex (use strong socket and breaker bar not allen key), 13mm bolts w/ hidden square nuts) then can access air pump and alternator to gain access to stock oil supply lines

Driver side work tips:
-After removal of the muffler and air injection, I didn't remove the muffler bracket (13mm bolt not easily accessable) but did feed out the muffler strap. Also I left the tubing intact on the exit on the turbo. I feared I would not be able to re-attach the hose. I did remove the muffler heat shield (6mm deep socket) on that side for more clearance.
-Clean and blast w air around stock oil supply line and remove w 12mm wrench. It is a bit of a puzzle to remove stock line w bracket there, just bend it a bit or even cut in half if you are confident.
-Tighten new oil line engine bay adapter w 17mm deep socket and use 24mm wrench on "milled" driver side check valve. I used a tiny drop of RTV to keep the crush washer in place while finger tightening. Assemble 90* bend and line finger tight to get good clearance. (confirm the 17mm adapter on the 24mm check valve is also tight)

Passenger side Tips:
-Position magnetic pickup tool on each alternator "hidden" square nut and remove bolts w 13mm socket. Move aside for more access to oil port inside engine bay. Pro-tip, if have 91107 tool then loosen the tension bolt on the alternator bracket since will make re-assembly much easier and can confirm V-belt proper tension
-I removed half of the airbox which was just two clips and popped out the hose and tucked back
-I opted to remove the muffler bracket on this side and even cut an access "strip" below the circle hole in the bracket to allow for wrench access to 13mm. I could deflect the turbo heat shield down w/o removal to get a ratcheting 13mm combo end wrench to aid removal. Then tackled 2x6mm allen on outside and 2x5mm in engine bay. (for the far 5mm hex, I needed universal on the bit and then went under the piping that is in the way)
-On this side I did remove the exit tubing of the turbo since I needed more room to work inside engine bay and easy to re-attach (7mm)
-Very easy access to tightening the new check valve into the turbo once muffler, muffler bracket removed. I was able to leave the muffler heat shield installed. Tighten w 24mm wrench, confirm 17mm adapter is also tight
-In reassembly the 6mm allen on muffler bracket past the new check valve will be tight clearance. I used the 6mm hex bit adapter on 1/4" socket

On both sides I started finger tight for the 90* adapter and new braided lines so that I could position for optimal clearance and re-use the grommet for engine bay. I had to trim the passenger side grommet for clearance and added a dab of RTV to secure.

Surprisingly the braided line is 14mm on one end and 9/16" on the side that is in the engine bay, so FYI when you go to tighten it up. I didn't use any sealant and just made sure everything was RFT (really friggin tight) per recommendation in another thread.

No leaks and success. I used gravity and then wash w/ brake cleaner to flush IC of oil. Also did an oil change to 20-50w Vtwin. No more smoking.

There were some other good pics here but I found a lot of the bolt sizing to be different on my US model. Also didn't have to touch the riveted heat shields. Just use as supplimental to the steps by Basal.

I would say roughly 2 hr for disassemble/reassemble and 1 hr each check valve = 4 total. Took me about ~5 hrs w/ oil change and not knowing what I was doing.

Basal Skull

I'm glad this old thread has had so many views and has helped a number of people!