Below is a list I recently compiled of almost every item that should be checked before purchasing a 993TT. I would like us all to create a (dare I say it?) perhaps "stickied" resource that can be viewed by newcomers. Here is my list, as people add to it I will come back to edit this post and make the list more and more comprehensive. Perhaps I will have the time to add what problem each inspected item addresses, although most of us will know what each item relates to. Many of these items can be inspected by the buyer if location is not a concern. Perhaps that will be another future division. So, without further preambling, here goes:

ECU/DME
- (OBDII) read fault/readiness codes

TEST DRIVE
- full throttle in 2nd (once warm), ensure 0.8bar boost (not "limp home mode") and check for clutch slippage
- idle at 880 +/- 40rpm
- make sure no stall on quick stop with A/C on
- check for wheel rub (full left/right lock while forward/reverse)
- test ABS (ABD if possible)
- watch temps.
- Ensure oil thermostat opens
- listen for oil cooler fan speeds at stop
- Check braking (no shudder/squeal/pull to either side)
- Ensure smooth power steering
– downshift into 1st at ~15mph to ensure easy engagement, no odd noises
- upshift and downshift into 2nd at a variety of speeds, ensure no crnchiness or notchiness

TURBOS
– check for oil leakage
- look inside pipes (turbo to intercooler) for oil

CLUTCH
– ensure no “clicking” or “hanging up” in clutch pedal motion (engine stopped and running)
- no signs of slippage
- accumulator
- check for hard pedal before start
- check for pentosin leaks from accumulator/slave

DRIVETRAIN
- visually inspect rear diff., viscous coupler, front diff. (for leaks, damage)
- check rubber CV joint boots for tearing/cracking

ENGINE
- compression test all six cylinders
- perform a leakdown test on all six
- check serial number – should begin with “61V” (1996) or "61T" (1997)
- check distributor, coil(s), plug wires for visible damage
- check engine tray (if installed) for oil deposits
- check for all fuses/relays (match w/ diagram on box cover)
- check valve covers, timing chain covers for leaks

WARNING LIGHTS
– all come on with key on, extinguish upon start
- make sure CEL not tripped (check OBDII to rule out removed bulb)
-check LCDdisplay on OBC for full functionality

CLIMATE
- A/C blows cold
- heat blows hot
- all climate control functions work (buttons/switches functioning)

STEERING
- check steering rack for leaks
- check rubber boots for tearing or cracking
- inspect p/s pump for leakage

OIL LEAKS
- check under engine
- timing chain covers
- lower valve covers
- smoke on start?
- smoke once warm?

MISC
- tool kit present
- jack present
- air compressor present
- door locking (from all switches and remote)
- alarm
- number of key fobs

LIGHTS
- driving lights
- head lights
- tail lights
- 3rd brake light
- fog lights
- interior
- trunk/engine lid lights
- glove box
- all turn indicators, including hazards

BODY
- check for rust, especially near bottom corners of windshield seal and around seals
- remove headlights, check forimpact damage/paint work/metal work
- any signs of impact damage
- check for even gaps either side of hood, trunk
- ensure engine bay stickers
- ensure sticker under luggage compartment (trunk) lid
- level “turbo” badge
- inspect for rolled fenders
- if possible – paint thickness meter?
- check for repainting/overspray around plastic, in door jams, etc.
- trunk
- look for corrosion (beneath fuel tank, brake reservoir, around bolts)
- check under spare wheel for rust, ensure drains OK
- look at ABS/ABD control unit for corrosion
- inspect for paint damage beneath hydraulic components
- check for small cracks in front bumper (should exist on 11yo car)
- install tow hook – should thread evenly and straight
- check taillight (condensation)
- remove rear bumper (front also if not too time consuming), check for repaint/metal repair underneath
- check seals (pour water down leading edge of doors, sunroof)
- check door for missing, clicking, loose straps/stops

INTERIOR
- check condition of vinyl/plastic/fabric
- check function of electric, heated seats
- power windows (ensure every switch works)
- test front wipers at all speeds (including delay)
- check windshield and headlight sprayers
- ensure function of rear wiper (if installed)
- defrost
- rear window, windshield, outside mirrors
- electric mirror controls work
- check AM/FM/CD/tape(?) for function
- check clock for function
- ensure sunroof opens, closes

Current as of post # 26

 

more than one FOB...

 

Duly noted.

 

If you have a fax PM the number; I could fax you a very detailed check list that I have..too much to type right now.

 

pull the headlights to check for body work / damage

 

Adrian Streather's book Porsche 993: The Essential Companion has a lengthy list of things to check as well. It looks like most if not all of them are already covered on the list above. One thing not mentioned that might seem kind of obvious is to have a chat with the previous owner (this would apply to cars at a dealership, they will usually give the PO's contact info if asked) I came very close to buying a car until I talked to the previous owner and found out he had drag raced it...

 

Check for clutch slippage in 4th gear at full throttle, 4000rpm. All LCD segments present OBC display after fully warmed. Steering rack and CV joint boots not torn. Creaky windshield?

 

Your list is very complete, congratulations.
Recently I have done a search in Germany for a used 993tt, but for a test like this you need much time, basically a full day is gone plus at least 500 EUR, not th speak of me not working that day and having fun with porsches instead...

In Germany usually there is little margin to lower the price in the discussion, so in the end I based my decision mostly on the service records and on the visual inspection. Acident free and a clean body and interior are most important. The engine can always be fixed and a new engine block from Porsche is only about 8500 EUR plus labor. So for my time table is it not worthwhile spending 5 days for testing , which is already 1/4 of the cost of a new engine. Luckily Porsche dealers who serviced the cars are usually quite helpful and will tell you -even by phone- what has happened to the cars in the past.
Since currently 50KEuro seems to be the lower limit for a clean 993tt and the bad ones (accident repairs, etc) are difficult to find below 45, I just trusted my visual inspection. I am prepared th spend the money I saved by not testing later on. The sunroof transmission on your list is the first item to be fixed.
For now I am very happy with my clean 993tt WLS II (450HP) in blue metallic.
What a change compared to my old 911 2.4S (with RS engine upgrade), the 993tt is really a very refined sports car in comparison, but I am happy to recognise the typical understeer and light/almost nervous steering of the 911!
What a great car!
Andreas

 

wow, that's an exhaustive list. too bad worn exhaust valve guides aren't easy to diagnose in cases i've heard of, as that turns into a 10k rebuild. some, if not many, of the items on the list are sub 100 dollar diy repairs in worst case, cheap gratification imho. but i suppose if you're looking at a top dollar collector type car with like 15k miles that you should be nitpicky on these items.

one thing though on the turbo oil check, i thought you had to check the turbo intake pipes for that, not the i/c hoses.

 

Andreas, con you verify the $8500 long block price (Euros) That's a bargain.. Send me a link?

 

Can anyone confirm regarding oil in turbo pipes?
Kaktis - the Streather book was used for parts of this list, however I wanted to create an easy-to-read bulleted version

Andreas - thanks!

 

I think the turbo intercooler hoses are a good and easy way to check for oil getting past the turbos.

I'd add a visual check for oil leakage at the power steering pump.

Excellent list... thanks.

 

Very welcome, and thank you Steve when you gave me some advice about a PPI on a higher-mileage car earlier this year!

As an aside, I've got a present coming in the mail (well, InterCity) this weekend, I'll post pics and a full description when it gets here!

 

All the rest make a lot of sense, but I don't know many cars that will shift real smoothly or easily into 1st at 25 mph. Maybe 10mph or so.

 

I thought that was a bit fast, but I know I read that somewhere... updated.