Improvements while not changing the ECU
11-18-2006, 02:53 AM
#18
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Andy, fantastic stuff, your car will certainly kick some butt out there.
For pure track as it seems you are targeting, I would not do anything radical with the engine , running conservative programming will keep you going for much longer and sustain your HP....and you seem to already have the essentials to go very fast.
I would add probably two high value added things, one is Castrol SRF in your brake circuit and the other is an extra oil cooler.
Can you please post a pic of your boost guage and let me know where you got it from. I don't want to order the wrong size, shipping costs as much as the guage.
Thanks.
For pure track as it seems you are targeting, I would not do anything radical with the engine , running conservative programming will keep you going for much longer and sustain your HP....and you seem to already have the essentials to go very fast.
I would add probably two high value added things, one is Castrol SRF in your brake circuit and the other is an extra oil cooler.
Can you please post a pic of your boost guage and let me know where you got it from. I don't want to order the wrong size, shipping costs as much as the guage.
Thanks.
11-18-2006, 12:10 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I do have a RUF secondary oil cooler from Steve Weiner : )
The breather modification id a re-rerouting of the breather hoses that when done keeps oil out of the intake. I'm not sure of the exact specifics but it's easy and requires some couplers and hose clampr. Contact Joel Reiser for the details. He is the PCA National Tech for 993s. He did the work on my car.
The breather modification id a re-rerouting of the breather hoses that when done keeps oil out of the intake. I'm not sure of the exact specifics but it's easy and requires some couplers and hose clampr. Contact Joel Reiser for the details. He is the PCA National Tech for 993s. He did the work on my car.
11-18-2006, 12:12 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Jean the boost gauge is from Andial. It is the 930 style that fits the clock opening. I will try to post a pic but it looks just like the one Viper Bob had in his car. Performance Products sells these still
11-19-2006, 05:23 AM
#22
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Originally Posted by AndyT
Jean the boost gauge is from Andial. It is the 930 style that fits the clock opening. I will try to post a pic but it looks just like the one Viper Bob had in his car. Performance Products sells these still
Great you have the oil cooler, you are all set between Steve and Joel... I am sure they will also recommend the SRF, I have had it for 18 months in the car and is still top notch!
Thanks
11-19-2006, 02:14 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FWIW... I recently flushed my brake system and dropped the $$$$ on the SRF. With my 355mm brakes F and R, the SRF did make a noticeable difference in pedal feel during modulation of the brakes. The feeling is subtle but definately worth it when pushing the brakes, or going extra deep into turns and wanting the extra confidence when doing so...
I am a little concerned about the continuing cost of running SRF given Castrol's note that the fluid is only good for 12 months. I am monitoring water absorbtion as the fluid change is soooooo $$$$.... I decided to try the SRF when several vendors put the stuff on sale.... OK, $55 per lter.... yeah, a bargain..... ;^)
Hope the comments helps.
I am a little concerned about the continuing cost of running SRF given Castrol's note that the fluid is only good for 12 months. I am monitoring water absorbtion as the fluid change is soooooo $$$$.... I decided to try the SRF when several vendors put the stuff on sale.... OK, $55 per lter.... yeah, a bargain..... ;^)
Hope the comments helps.
11-19-2006, 03:15 PM
#24
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Jim you are absolutely right about the 12 months. I have not been tracking my car (and hardly driving) as of late so I did not change it yet, also I need to special order it at GREAT cost to get it here 
The race shop in Germany that recommended the oil, mentioned that other cheaper oils needed to be changed every 6 months maximum... so it is not as bad when one adds the cost and weighs the cost/benefit I think. Personally I would never go back to anything else, never failed or faded once, even racing with very high temperatures in summer and plain stock discs.
Thanks for highlighting, it is not ok to wait for 18 months with any of these oils
The race shop in Germany that recommended the oil, mentioned that other cheaper oils needed to be changed every 6 months maximum... so it is not as bad when one adds the cost and weighs the cost/benefit I think. Personally I would never go back to anything else, never failed or faded once, even racing with very high temperatures in summer and plain stock discs.
Thanks for highlighting, it is not ok to wait for 18 months with any of these oils
11-20-2006, 08:37 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Jim who's brake kit are you using ? I am runnin 332 AP Racing rotors up front with lightweight aluminum hats. In the rear stock. Pads: Yellow and black Pagids. i am thinking of Running Performance Friction pads next and going to AP slotted rotors.
11-21-2006, 08:57 PM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Andy:
Yup, Steve was my source the 355 "EVO" Brembo brakes. I did lots of research before buying the 355's. I really wanted the 322's with floating rotors, but could not find a suitable rear hat for the 322 rear rotor and still keep a parking brake.
On my car, the 355's front and rear are like having "the hand of god" (whose ever and how many gods you want are all fine with me...) reach into the car and yank it back. Simply amazing !
I did the 355's on my old C2 as I had some temp related fading on long downhill stints on some of my rallies. Descending some of the passes used in rallies really pushes the brakes... I think more so than the track... my $0.02 having driven both. When I bought my turbo, I transferred the brakes to it.
When the 355mm Brembo rotors wear, I am likely going to keep my calipers / pads, but try the Alcon slotted rotors. I hear good things about the Alcon rotor material over the Brembo. I cannot really complain about the Brembo's, just want to try Alcon and see the diff...
Pad wise, I am running Pagid RS4-2-1 front and RS4-2-2 rear. I have shy'd away from the Performance Friction pads from seeing some "euro" rotors that were run with the PF pads on the track. May be total BS, but I hear that the PF are great for American (Corvette) and Asian brake designs as they run higher clamping forces than the euro designs that run with more swept area and lower pressures...
I hope the comments help.
Yup, Steve was my source the 355 "EVO" Brembo brakes. I did lots of research before buying the 355's. I really wanted the 322's with floating rotors, but could not find a suitable rear hat for the 322 rear rotor and still keep a parking brake.
On my car, the 355's front and rear are like having "the hand of god" (whose ever and how many gods you want are all fine with me...) reach into the car and yank it back. Simply amazing !
I did the 355's on my old C2 as I had some temp related fading on long downhill stints on some of my rallies. Descending some of the passes used in rallies really pushes the brakes... I think more so than the track... my $0.02 having driven both. When I bought my turbo, I transferred the brakes to it.
When the 355mm Brembo rotors wear, I am likely going to keep my calipers / pads, but try the Alcon slotted rotors. I hear good things about the Alcon rotor material over the Brembo. I cannot really complain about the Brembo's, just want to try Alcon and see the diff...
Pad wise, I am running Pagid RS4-2-1 front and RS4-2-2 rear. I have shy'd away from the Performance Friction pads from seeing some "euro" rotors that were run with the PF pads on the track. May be total BS, but I hear that the PF are great for American (Corvette) and Asian brake designs as they run higher clamping forces than the euro designs that run with more swept area and lower pressures...
I hope the comments help.
11-22-2006, 12:51 PM
#28
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe some diverter valves and run an open exhaust. Just dump pipes.
Do this on a dyno. I tried straight pipes on my car and it did not increase hp. It did increase noise and looked cool. I think this gets back to ECU tuning. My car is not stock though( K24's/GIAC ecu). Not C class legal.
I still like the Pagid Orange upfront for the initial bite. Blacks for the rear.