Intercooler removal question
06-12-2003, 10:06 AM
#1
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Intercooler removal question
What is needed to remove the intercooler? Are there gaskets that will need to be replaced or is it as easy as disconnecting the pressure hoses and unbolting the mounting bolts? Anything special I should know?
06-12-2003, 10:31 AM
#2
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Moose:
<strong>What is needed to remove the intercooler? Are there gaskets that will need to be replaced or is it as easy as disconnecting the pressure hoses and unbolting the mounting bolts? Anything special I should know?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Moose, it seems fairly simple based on my observation of the activity. As "Jeff 993TT" mentions, in the link below, be careful not to lose anything or you will spend time fishing in the compartment. And of course, check out the recent posts about what hoses or clamps may or may not need upgradation or monitoring. <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000105" target="_blank">CLICK for Jeff 993TT's (User number 720) useful post on the subject</a> A few others have chipped in with their thoughts on the subject in the same post.
<strong>What is needed to remove the intercooler? Are there gaskets that will need to be replaced or is it as easy as disconnecting the pressure hoses and unbolting the mounting bolts? Anything special I should know?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Moose, it seems fairly simple based on my observation of the activity. As "Jeff 993TT" mentions, in the link below, be careful not to lose anything or you will spend time fishing in the compartment. And of course, check out the recent posts about what hoses or clamps may or may not need upgradation or monitoring. <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000105" target="_blank">CLICK for Jeff 993TT's (User number 720) useful post on the subject</a> A few others have chipped in with their thoughts on the subject in the same post.
06-12-2003, 11:12 AM
#3
Another thing that I would add is that you should use a rachet set witha 6MM allen head attachement to remove the top 3 bolts.
Do not try to use an allen key. You'll most likely strip the bolts and hurt your hands.
Btw, if you are serious about doing more DIY's, you should really get a set of shop manuals. They are chock full of procedures, information, etc.
good luck!
Do not try to use an allen key. You'll most likely strip the bolts and hurt your hands.
Btw, if you are serious about doing more DIY's, you should really get a set of shop manuals. They are chock full of procedures, information, etc.
good luck!
06-12-2003, 07:59 PM
#4
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Hi Moose -
The allen bolts are under the cover that is attached with the 2 screws. THere are 3 O rings that may or may not need replacing. The large one (you'll see) usually breaks. It is good to have extras of those. The small ones usually aren't a problem.
Another word of advice is put some large towels into the uplink hoses coming from the turbos so that you don't drop anything in there, as well as into the recirculation valve openings (the 2 small holes in the throttle body that have the small gaskets around them.
You may want to lubricate the gaskets before re-assembly.
Regards,
Peter
The allen bolts are under the cover that is attached with the 2 screws. THere are 3 O rings that may or may not need replacing. The large one (you'll see) usually breaks. It is good to have extras of those. The small ones usually aren't a problem.
Another word of advice is put some large towels into the uplink hoses coming from the turbos so that you don't drop anything in there, as well as into the recirculation valve openings (the 2 small holes in the throttle body that have the small gaskets around them.
You may want to lubricate the gaskets before re-assembly.
Regards,
Peter
06-12-2003, 09:29 PM
#5
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> Quoted by Jeff:
Another thing that I would add is that you should use a rachet set witha 6MM allen head attachement to remove the top 3 bolts.
Do not try to use an allen key. You'll most likely strip the bolts and hurt your hands.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Those 6mm allen bolts were a pain to remove on mine. I had the ratchet set and allen head attachment and put a fair amount of torque on the ratchet but it wouldn't budge. I limited the amount of force I was using for fear of stripping the head however. Finally opted for an impact driver. Came loose with one tap. <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />
cheers,
Kris
'97 993tt
'89 535I
'89 Nissan 300zxtt
'00 Trackmagic 125 cc shifter kart
Another thing that I would add is that you should use a rachet set witha 6MM allen head attachement to remove the top 3 bolts.
Do not try to use an allen key. You'll most likely strip the bolts and hurt your hands.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Those 6mm allen bolts were a pain to remove on mine. I had the ratchet set and allen head attachment and put a fair amount of torque on the ratchet but it wouldn't budge. I limited the amount of force I was using for fear of stripping the head however. Finally opted for an impact driver. Came loose with one tap. <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />
cheers,
Kris
'97 993tt
'89 535I
'89 Nissan 300zxtt
'00 Trackmagic 125 cc shifter kart
06-13-2003, 07:18 PM
#6
I happened to watch some of Kevin Buckler's race team pull all the plumbing off the top of a 993 Turbo recently (part of the process to do a leak-down and compression test for a car I was getting inspected.)
They used a very short rachet (maybe 10cm / 5 inch -ish) with a long extension and a wobble connector like a ball joint to attach the given sockets and hex drivers.
As mentioned. Don't use Allen keys, get hex drivers from a brand -- crappy quality hex keys will expand the inside of the head (leaving tell-tale gnurled lips) and eventually create a nightmare problem. You don't have to buy Snap-On, just don't buy "master tough" or whatever.
Speaking of TRG, it was quite interesting to watch race mechanics fiddling with street cars -- street cars are so impractical, with everything compromised to aesthetics and cost of production.
One guy did almost everything and had everything (intercooler and plumbing off both sides) to reveal the plugs in around 15 minutes. It took about 30 minutes to get it back together. Confidence and repetition make it look simple.
If I was to do the same work, I'd set aside a whole afternoon, vacuum out the garage, put down fresh drop cloths ... and invite a few friends over to get a look at the engine (instead of just the intercooler vanes) and marvel at how something the size of a VCR from the 70's can deliver so much horsepower and torque (with reliability.)
They used a very short rachet (maybe 10cm / 5 inch -ish) with a long extension and a wobble connector like a ball joint to attach the given sockets and hex drivers.
As mentioned. Don't use Allen keys, get hex drivers from a brand -- crappy quality hex keys will expand the inside of the head (leaving tell-tale gnurled lips) and eventually create a nightmare problem. You don't have to buy Snap-On, just don't buy "master tough" or whatever.
Speaking of TRG, it was quite interesting to watch race mechanics fiddling with street cars -- street cars are so impractical, with everything compromised to aesthetics and cost of production.
One guy did almost everything and had everything (intercooler and plumbing off both sides) to reveal the plugs in around 15 minutes. It took about 30 minutes to get it back together. Confidence and repetition make it look simple.
If I was to do the same work, I'd set aside a whole afternoon, vacuum out the garage, put down fresh drop cloths ... and invite a few friends over to get a look at the engine (instead of just the intercooler vanes) and marvel at how something the size of a VCR from the 70's can deliver so much horsepower and torque (with reliability.)
07-08-2013, 01:14 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
It's a shame no one has a made a video (youtube) or blog/photo slide of this procedure. Have they? Or anything 993 Turbo related. I've seen some comprehensive 991 procedures on line that are fascinating (and cumbersome looking).
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07-09-2013, 10:54 AM
#8
Race Director
honestly, that isn't necessary...it shouldn't take more than 15 min to pull the IC.
6 8mm screws, remove cover
3 6mm hex bolts
2 13mm bolts with square captive nuts behind the fan
2 hose clamps
remove temp sensor connector on IC neck
lift and remove. piece of cake if the bolts cooperate.
6 8mm screws, remove cover
3 6mm hex bolts
2 13mm bolts with square captive nuts behind the fan
2 hose clamps
remove temp sensor connector on IC neck
lift and remove. piece of cake if the bolts cooperate.
