How to change clutch without removing engine?
#1
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My mind was pretty much made up on removing the enging and transmission to replace the clutch and a few other bits this coming week but I keep reading that it's possible to remove the tranny without the engine. Can someone explain this further please?
Is it also possible to replace the intercooler hoses with the engine still in the hole? I seem to remember not being able to get a screwdriver near them a couple of years ago!
Or should I just bite the bullet and get the complete unit out and do all the bits in one easy hit?
My head hurts already!
Is it also possible to replace the intercooler hoses with the engine still in the hole? I seem to remember not being able to get a screwdriver near them a couple of years ago!
Or should I just bite the bullet and get the complete unit out and do all the bits in one easy hit?
My head hurts already!
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The engine has to be in place to hook up the intercooler hoses, the turbos are below the frame rail, the intercooler above and the hose goes through a hole in the rail. Removing the mufflers makes it much easier or use shorter aftermarket mufflers or bypasses.
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If you have limited tools and space. In the long run it might be easier for you to drop the entire assy. You have to fabricate a engine brace and run several jacks if you are removing the tranny on it's own. If you have several things to do on your engine, like valve covers, plugs, wires, steering pump belt and seal, or whatever.. It might be easier to drop the engine. If you can put the car on a lift.. I'd then drop the trans by itself..
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We have a lift and full workshop facilities ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I thought the trans wouldn't move forward enough to remove without taking the engine with it?
The removal of the trans is not documented anywhere.
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I thought the trans wouldn't move forward enough to remove without taking the engine with it?
The removal of the trans is not documented anywhere.
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You have to take the mount bolts off the front diff, and then disconnect the torque tube and drive shaft from the engine. Now move the assembly as far forward as possible. Then lower the engine to the limits of the engine mounts. Now Lower the rear tranny. Keep lowering and you will maybe need a crow bar to leverage the shaft from the tranny out the bottom of the torque tube. That's about it... In the manual they have dimensions to make a plate to attach to a couple of tunnel cover studs to keep the torque tube in place safely with the engine out.
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I think we'll pull the engine and box as it will probably be quicker overall to do all the service parts including the DV's etc. Also give me a chance to tighten the engine cover release cable to stop the pull rattling. Never thought i'd pull the engine on that basis!
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Getting the clutch fork pin back in with the motor in place is by far the hardest part of the job. Sometimes that can take an hour or two by itself depending on how lucky you are. You basically have to tape the clutch fork to the pressure plate, slide the tranny into place until the clutch fork bearing holes are lined up, then you can remove the tape, and work the pin in. Just make sure you don't drop the small release arm bracket or bolt back into the bellhousing, because then you get to pull it, and try the balancing act again.
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And how about the needle bearings droping out of the cages when he is tryimg to wigle the shaft pin? I will say to drop the engine, it is wiser,cheers, Sonny.
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I do this all the time and leave the motor in. Saves time in the long run. The key is to be able to manipulate the fork to insert the shaft. I use the clutch slave cylinder hole and the hole in front of that after removing the rubber cap to leverage the bottom of the fork backwards to get into the proper position. Then carefully inserting the shaft and aways move forward, and not pulling it out (or the bearing can come off). When inserting the bearing to the end of the shaft, a little extra grease in there helps to keep it on...
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Originally Posted by Rob 97 993c2
so, how long should a clutch and flywheel take to install if the motor is left in?
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Ok, got the engine and box out - glad we did too as I can see a small hole in the inlet manifold ducting going to the turbo and a loose pipe holding the DV on - it's sprayed out plenty of oil so I guess we've lost some air too.
Anyone got any idea as to how much movement in the flywheel is acceptable?
Anyone got any idea as to how much movement in the flywheel is acceptable?