Ruf-Dan-Ruf

Having just rebuilt an engine and being next door to you in NZ I would advise the following.

Check the prices of all the parts they are quoting you. There are HUGE differences between US and downunder on some items. (like the rings mentioned above.)

Many knowledgable and helpful guys on this board who can supply you if the pricing is out.

If the valve guides are worn to the extent you were loosing compression then the bearings must be worn. Yes, of cause, they still might have life in them but how much? You are most of the way there and I agree with Kevin. The extra cost to do the bearings, rod bolts etc, check/balance the bottom end will be worth it.

How bad would it be after you spend the money doing only the valves etc and then you have to open it up again soon after.

Kevin Ross

Hi Kevin

What are rod bolts?

Father of 3

Why is this necessarily the case?

Jean

Hi Kevin,
the rod bolts are the ones that attach the rods to the crankshaft, these tend to fail and stretch on highly modified engines and end up bending/breaking a rod. It is not absolutely necessary to change them but definitely good insurance, they are inexpensive. These are some Carillo rods, the OEM rods are different but you can see the bolts at the bottom of the rod.

Ruf-Dan-Ruf

Rings, bearings and valve guides are parts designed to wear .... and then be replaced.

They don't necessarily wear at the same rate or have the same wear life cycle ..... but ... they all do wear.

so therefore

if the valve guides are worn to the extent you are loosing compression then the bearing must be worn to some extent.

So the point is the extra expense will be minimal at this point to replace the bearings that will be worn.

jayster

Hello all. It has been a while since I checked in. Have been really busy putting big motors in litle cars...
I thought I might check in with you guys on this one.
1) Do not arbitrarily replace rings. You can do more harm than good. If that doesnt make sense to you, call me some times and I will fill you in. 1650.00 for rings? not.
2) If you need guides get some good ones, ask around...The valves will depend on stem taper, tapered = worn . worn=new valves. rods? depends on how they spec out, and how you have used the motor.
3) have them do the through bolts, cylinder base o rings, cam box and housing, etc.
4) Replace the rod bolts with stock at least, ARP is good, so is Raceware...
5) this far in why not split the case and do some bearings, eh?
pm or call me 954.560.3175.
I have more I can share. For now Im taking my daughters to breakfast down at the beach to watch for hurricanes...
Peace Jay Putnam.

K24madness

Jayster,

I agree with your opinion on the rings. If the cylinder walls look and measure good leave them alone.


Kevin Ross,

Valve springs deteriorate with age as well as mileage. I would suggest that when doing the heads you do those as well.

With the heads removed it would be very cheap insurance to remove the rods have them resized and fitted with upgraded bolts like the ARP's.

I would also replace all of the lifters. They also have a shelf life.

If I were you I would source out a reputible engine shop and have them do the head work and rods work. Ask the stealership to give you the parts and then return them for reassembly.

Felix

The only down side to this is if something goes wrong there will be finger pointing with the owner caught in the middle. One stop shopping does have its advantages because when something goes wrong you get to be the one dong the pointing instead of someone else.

Just my two cents...

Kevin Ross

Hi Everyone

OK, was at Porsche today going through the options and agreeing on what can / should be done. I have also had to ensure I stay within budget. So generally I've decided to leave the bottom end, and get everything else done - total valve job, through bolts, o-rings, etc etc...

I seriously considered looking at going deeper but honestly I won't be tracking the car, and therefore it will not have a hard life from here on out... the driving I do is country driving on long open highways.

I do appreciate all your advice, so thanks so much to Kevin and everyone who gave me their input!!

I have not driven my baby in over a month now, having owned it for just over two weeks before it went in for the rebuild! So I am having serious withdrawal at the moment...

...perhaps you can tell me about your last drive, and I can enjoy my car vicariously through your experience

911/Q45

I took my kid to school yesterday, waited at 3 stoplights but was able to get into the boost once. This may not be what you're looking for!

ca993twin

I drove Rufus the other day, and not once did I exceed 187 MPH.

Peter S 993tt

Steve - Age is creeping up on us.

Kevin

Kevin does the etc, etc include rebuilt rods and ARP rod bolts?

pstoppani

Mine is ECU-less in the garage waiting for Kevin's Stage 1 turbos and ECU. So, haven't driven it for a week.

But just before that, I had it a Pacific Raceways for a day of fun around the a nice race track. The afternoon was in the wet and I was on bald R-Compounds to add a bit of excitement... I have in-car video if you need it to get through your waiting period

Actually there is some video on my car's web page (click on my sig)...

Kevin Ross

but in the end.....