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Oil Changes - How often for garage queen?

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Old 08-19-2017 | 12:31 AM
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Default Oil Changes - How often for garage queen?

No flames please. I know the general recommendation is at least once a year. However my 993tt sees only 200 miles a year and 1 tank of gas. It seems wasteful to toss 10+ quarts of Porsche 10w-60 away. I just happen to have 4 other cars which see the main usage, 2016 GTS, 2000 Box S, 1995.5 Audi S6 and a 2013 Caddy STX. I learned how to buy them just not how to sell them.

Do you think that Jay Leno is on the once a year oil change cycle for his collection of autos?
Old 08-19-2017 | 01:45 AM
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Once a year is cheap insurance. Wait longer if you want. Neither will kill the car.
Old 08-19-2017 | 01:46 PM
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1000 miles a year and new V Twin and filters every second year. Still too often. Could go 3 years easy but I'm ****.
Old 08-22-2017 | 12:20 PM
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Policy at Porsche dealer (Netherlands) is once every two years now.
And they basically follow what Porsche AG says.
Old 08-22-2017 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mtgadbois
However my 993tt sees only 200 miles a year and 1 tank of gas.
And here I thought a 993TT would be a car I could put more miles on than my Lamborghini (500-800 miles a year...but WAY more than 1 tank of petrol).

I would stay with a yearly change because of condensation buildup (at times here in SE Texas you can drink the air).
Old 08-22-2017 | 03:07 PM
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Two years will be fine. Do an oil analysis (use Blackstone, etc) on the oil and you will get a good idea on how much moisture is in the oil and its longevity.

However, please do NOT start the car periodically and let it idle to warm it up - this does the car no good. Rather than that, every few months pull the DME relay and crank the car over for 5-10 seconds. This pumps the oil through the engine, splashes the bottom of the piston barrels, repositions the pistons in the barrels, and repositions the camshafts. IMHO< that is much better for long term storage than idling.

Cheers,

Mike
Old 08-22-2017 | 03:38 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to my every other year scenario. The car gets driven only once or twice a month from Spring to Fall. From November to May it lies dormant and never started. If I start it I drive it, no prolonged warm ups.

BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
Old 08-22-2017 | 03:42 PM
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Stabilize your fuel, too. At least 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons fuel. Could afford to double dose. Your fuel will go bad before the oil will. If you can find 91 octane ethanol free, use that. You won't find 93 ethanol free in the Chicagoland area.
Old 08-22-2017 | 04:00 PM
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Again, after a long sit before starting it, remove the DME relay, crank to get oil pressure, restore the relay and then start - you will find much less lifter noise since you moved oil in them after a long time stopped time, and its better for the engine as well.

Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.

Cheers,

Mike


Originally Posted by mtgadbois
Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to my every other year scenario. The car gets driven only once or twice a month from Spring to Fall. From November to May it lies dormant and never started. If I start it I drive it, no prolonged warm ups.

BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
Old 08-22-2017 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mtgadbois
BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
Switched from what prior oil? Maybe the prior oil was the "wrong" oil.
How old was the "old" oil?
New oil, will be "quieter".
Could all be antidotal.
Old 08-22-2017 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Switched from what prior oil? Maybe the prior oil was the "wrong" oil.
How old was the "old" oil?
New oil, will be "quieter".
Could all be antidotal.
Let's see if I can recall. First 2 or 3 times were done by the dealer and I think the dealer used Mobil 0-40 or whatever was used in all of their Mercedes/Porsche cars. Next time 2 times when I did it I used Delvac 1 15W-50 (I believe). Last time I used the Porsche 10W-60. FWIW, changing the oil in a 993tt is not a simple job like in a Boxster. It's at least a 4 beer job.

Also, with my final fill up (Shell 93 octane) of the season I add 1 can of Sea Foam. I won't use Stabil.
Old 08-23-2017 | 01:35 AM
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You can drain oil out of the following places:

Case
Sump tank
Turbo sumps X2

Did you confirm old oil were drained out of all of these 4 places? Some shops are lazy and only drain out of the sump which is why I DIY and drink beers for my piece of mind.
Old 08-23-2017 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mtgadbois
Let's see if I can recall. First 2 or 3 times were done by the dealer and I think the dealer used Mobil 0-40 or whatever was used in all of their Mercedes/Porsche cars. Next time 2 times when I did it I used Delvac 1 15W-50 (I believe). Last time I used the Porsche 10W-60. FWIW, changing the oil in a 993tt is not a simple job like in a Boxster. It's at least a 4 beer job.

Also, with my final fill up (Shell 93 octane) of the season I add 1 can of Sea Foam. I won't use Stabil.
Sounds like Loeber? 0-40 is definitely the wrong oil for the 993 Turbo. Since the reformulation a few years ago, Mobil (Delvac) 15W50 is not stout enough for the Turbo, it's OK for the n/a 993s. The Porsche 10W60 is a good product, but expensive, Mobil V-Twin 20W50 would be as good or better, and less expensive and easier to find.
Old 08-25-2017 | 01:09 AM
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I'm guessing at the 0W-40 since I was told they used the same oil for all their vehicles and my at that time vehicle was a Boxster. Dealer is Motorwerks and for my first oil change with the 993tt I went onto the shop floor and spoke with the mechanic - Frank, I believe. He showed me the proper technique for an oil change; namely, drain this, drain that, drain these little guys, and crack this oil line. Not anything remotely like the oil change in a Boxster or an '84 911 Carrera. I started doing my own oil changes when Frank left Motorwerks.

Speaking about mechanics, I remember being coached by Manny on valve lash settings. Nice guy. We were at his shop (Porshop) many years ago and chatting. My Carrera was a few feet away and outside. A bird flew over and dropped a small load on the 911. We continued to talk but after about 2 minutes he couldn't stand it anymore. He went and got a clean rag and wiped away the bird crap.
Old 08-27-2017 | 01:01 PM
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Wait, Mike I can start in neutral w/o clutch. Is my interlock switch disengaged? Dealer replaced clutch 2 yrs ago/didn't say anything.
I put a lightweight flywheel in at that time too-hate that thing.


And I put 50 miles on mine last year. Just too voluptuous to sell though/got the lighting just perfect in the garage....etc. I know I know I should be shot at dawn.

I'm beating the crap out of my Shelby at the strip though 10.7 seconds best



Originally Posted by Mike J
Again, after a long sit before starting it, remove the DME relay, crank to get oil pressure, restore the relay and then start - you will find much less lifter noise since you moved oil in them after a long time stopped time, and its better for the engine as well.

Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.

Cheers,

Mike


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