Oil Changes - How often for garage queen?
#1
Oil Changes - How often for garage queen?
No flames please. I know the general recommendation is at least once a year. However my 993tt sees only 200 miles a year and 1 tank of gas. It seems wasteful to toss 10+ quarts of Porsche 10w-60 away. I just happen to have 4 other cars which see the main usage, 2016 GTS, 2000 Box S, 1995.5 Audi S6 and a 2013 Caddy STX. I learned how to buy them just not how to sell them.
Do you think that Jay Leno is on the once a year oil change cycle for his collection of autos?
Do you think that Jay Leno is on the once a year oil change cycle for his collection of autos?
#5
And here I thought a 993TT would be a car I could put more miles on than my Lamborghini (500-800 miles a year...but WAY more than 1 tank of petrol).
I would stay with a yearly change because of condensation buildup (at times here in SE Texas you can drink the air).
I would stay with a yearly change because of condensation buildup (at times here in SE Texas you can drink the air).
#6
Two years will be fine. Do an oil analysis (use Blackstone, etc) on the oil and you will get a good idea on how much moisture is in the oil and its longevity.
However, please do NOT start the car periodically and let it idle to warm it up - this does the car no good. Rather than that, every few months pull the DME relay and crank the car over for 5-10 seconds. This pumps the oil through the engine, splashes the bottom of the piston barrels, repositions the pistons in the barrels, and repositions the camshafts. IMHO< that is much better for long term storage than idling.
Cheers,
Mike
However, please do NOT start the car periodically and let it idle to warm it up - this does the car no good. Rather than that, every few months pull the DME relay and crank the car over for 5-10 seconds. This pumps the oil through the engine, splashes the bottom of the piston barrels, repositions the pistons in the barrels, and repositions the camshafts. IMHO< that is much better for long term storage than idling.
Cheers,
Mike
#7
Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to my every other year scenario. The car gets driven only once or twice a month from Spring to Fall. From November to May it lies dormant and never started. If I start it I drive it, no prolonged warm ups.
BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
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#8
Stabilize your fuel, too. At least 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons fuel. Could afford to double dose. Your fuel will go bad before the oil will. If you can find 91 octane ethanol free, use that. You won't find 93 ethanol free in the Chicagoland area.
#9
Again, after a long sit before starting it, remove the DME relay, crank to get oil pressure, restore the relay and then start - you will find much less lifter noise since you moved oil in them after a long time stopped time, and its better for the engine as well.
Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.
Cheers,
Mike
Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.
Cheers,
Mike
Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to my every other year scenario. The car gets driven only once or twice a month from Spring to Fall. From November to May it lies dormant and never started. If I start it I drive it, no prolonged warm ups.
BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
BTW, after switching to the P. 10W-60 I've noticed that it sounds better on starting and seems to run smoother. Lifter noise after a full Winter has been reduced, probably cut in half.
#10
How old was the "old" oil?
New oil, will be "quieter".
Could all be antidotal.
#11
Also, with my final fill up (Shell 93 octane) of the season I add 1 can of Sea Foam. I won't use Stabil.
#12
You can drain oil out of the following places:
Case
Sump tank
Turbo sumps X2
Did you confirm old oil were drained out of all of these 4 places? Some shops are lazy and only drain out of the sump which is why I DIY and drink beers for my piece of mind.
Case
Sump tank
Turbo sumps X2
Did you confirm old oil were drained out of all of these 4 places? Some shops are lazy and only drain out of the sump which is why I DIY and drink beers for my piece of mind.
#13
Let's see if I can recall. First 2 or 3 times were done by the dealer and I think the dealer used Mobil 0-40 or whatever was used in all of their Mercedes/Porsche cars. Next time 2 times when I did it I used Delvac 1 15W-50 (I believe). Last time I used the Porsche 10W-60. FWIW, changing the oil in a 993tt is not a simple job like in a Boxster. It's at least a 4 beer job.
Also, with my final fill up (Shell 93 octane) of the season I add 1 can of Sea Foam. I won't use Stabil.
Also, with my final fill up (Shell 93 octane) of the season I add 1 can of Sea Foam. I won't use Stabil.
#14
I'm guessing at the 0W-40 since I was told they used the same oil for all their vehicles and my at that time vehicle was a Boxster. Dealer is Motorwerks and for my first oil change with the 993tt I went onto the shop floor and spoke with the mechanic - Frank, I believe. He showed me the proper technique for an oil change; namely, drain this, drain that, drain these little guys, and crack this oil line. Not anything remotely like the oil change in a Boxster or an '84 911 Carrera. I started doing my own oil changes when Frank left Motorwerks.
Speaking about mechanics, I remember being coached by Manny on valve lash settings. Nice guy. We were at his shop (Porshop) many years ago and chatting. My Carrera was a few feet away and outside. A bird flew over and dropped a small load on the 911. We continued to talk but after about 2 minutes he couldn't stand it anymore. He went and got a clean rag and wiped away the bird crap.
Speaking about mechanics, I remember being coached by Manny on valve lash settings. Nice guy. We were at his shop (Porshop) many years ago and chatting. My Carrera was a few feet away and outside. A bird flew over and dropped a small load on the 911. We continued to talk but after about 2 minutes he couldn't stand it anymore. He went and got a clean rag and wiped away the bird crap.
#15
Wait, Mike I can start in neutral w/o clutch. Is my interlock switch disengaged? Dealer replaced clutch 2 yrs ago/didn't say anything.
I put a lightweight flywheel in at that time too-hate that thing.
And I put 50 miles on mine last year. Just too voluptuous to sell though/got the lighting just perfect in the garage....etc. I know I know I should be shot at dawn.
I'm beating the crap out of my Shelby at the strip though 10.7 seconds best
I put a lightweight flywheel in at that time too-hate that thing.
And I put 50 miles on mine last year. Just too voluptuous to sell though/got the lighting just perfect in the garage....etc. I know I know I should be shot at dawn.
I'm beating the crap out of my Shelby at the strip though 10.7 seconds best
Again, after a long sit before starting it, remove the DME relay, crank to get oil pressure, restore the relay and then start - you will find much less lifter noise since you moved oil in them after a long time stopped time, and its better for the engine as well.
Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.
Cheers,
Mike
Another idea is to bypass the clutch interlock switch so you can start the car without depressing the clutch. Starting in neutral is better for the crank bearing since the clutch plate is not loading the plate. This is good for every time you start the car.
Cheers,
Mike