Greg Fishman

Thanks Kary,
That is basically what I do. Cracked a rotor last year at Road AMerica and it felt like the rotors were warped. Changed them out and used the same pads, re-bedded them and all was good. Do you have some cooling ducts run to the rotors? I do and that seems to help performance and longevity.

You might also want to try some other pads besides the PO's. In my experience the Hawk Blues are great for track use, and are a fair bit cheaper than Pagid's. I got a lot of fade with the PO's and once I switched to the Hawks it didn't fade at all, and gave me a more positive pedal feel.

kary993

Greg,

I have heard quite number of good things about Hawk Blues from different sources. I personally have not had any fade issues with PO's even on large tracks like California Speedway where you must bleed speed off in multiple brake zones per lap (140->50, 115->40, 120->40) even for 30 minutes track sessions. I do not have any cooling ducts going to the front rotors and certainly agree with you that performance and longevity would be helped if I had them.

I'll consider trying the Hawk Blues since I will be needing brakes soon anyway. Also, I am planning on upgrading my brakes to Reds or larger, have not decided yet which ones. Are you running Reds?

Greg Fishman

Yes I am. But I did run the same pads when I had the std. brakes. No problems with fade with either set up.

Only downside of the Hawk Blues are the dust. Besure to get it off your car and wheels fairly soon after an event as it is very corrosive.

MrClifton

OK. I've tried all of the fixes recomended and they still make noise. I'm buying new rotors. The new rotors at Pelican are about $95. On some of the Porsche dealer websites, the rotors are about $173.

Does anyone have experience with the $95 rotors and are they aftermarket? They say OEM but in the old days, that was also a brand name.

I like original factory parts but on rotors maybe aftermarket is OK if someone has had a good experience.

Jim Morton

Mr. Clifton:

I am just finishing a brake upgrade and have a set of stock rotors with only 5000 miles on them. You are welcome to them if you like.

PM me if you want to hook up and get them.

Regards

maurice97C2S

Confession time, Jim ! I can't imagine you doing a vanilla 'Big Red', so what exotic variant have you chosen? Inquiring minds wish to know .....

Cheers, Maurice

Mark in Baltimore

Edward - Okay, I'm confused. I know race pads require it, but do the stock pads have to be bedded in, too?

I've also found some contradictory info regarding Pagid pads. 1) I have this document which is, supposedly, the official bedding-in procedure recommended by PAGID, and is how I've been bedding in my PO's and Hawk Blues, as provided by Andreas Boehm of Brake Technology of America:

RACING PAD BEDDING

1. BASIC BEDDING IN (alignment of pad surface to brake disc)

4 to 6 stops with light to medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 100 km/h (65 MPH).
Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards).

The pads should not reach temperatures above 300 - 400 Centigrade (550 to 750 Fahrenheit) during bedding in. No dragging!

Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.

2. IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED

One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 100 km/h (65 MPH).
Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times.

Repeat the high-speed stops, including recovery stops, 2 to 3 times.
Allow a cooling-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.


2) But if you go onto Pagid's website, they supply this document for bedding. Seems quite different to me.

Anyone know which one is right and whether stock pads have to go through this procedure?

Davies

Hey Jim,
At the risk of appearing buzzardlike, if Mr Morton isn't interested
in your 5k rotors...I'll buy them off you. (I was just about to buy
new rotors from my independent..)

Ray Calvo

OK. I've tried all of the fixes recomended and they still make noise. I'm buying new rotors. The new rotors at Pelican are about $95. On some of the Porsche dealer websites, the rotors are about $173.

Does anyone have experience with the $95 rotors and are they aftermarket? They say OEM but in the old days, that was also a brand name.
[QUOTE]

Don't know about Pelican, but bought a set from Vertex for a super low price once. They warped in 10 minutes on the track and cracked completely to the outside edge in less that 5K miles of driving. So, avoid bargain-basement prices.

I've bought from Hoehn and Performance Products (last were cryogenic cooled types; no better than stock), and the latest set (on the car now) were from Suncoast. First two were both 30K mile rotors; last looks beautiful at 5K miles ($130 ea.)

kary993

Mark,

I have always been told and I have always used the method descibed in the Pagid link you provided.

May be that is why my frozen rotors have out lasted normal rotors by a large margin

Mark in Baltimore

Thanks, Kary. I'll have to try the "new" method.

Jim Morton

Maurice:

I have taken the plunge to 355mm EVO brakes F and R. More $$$, swept area and less weight. I should have things tidied up this weekend. I will report, post pictures when done.

With these brakes and the new K58R Kinesis wheels, the beastie is taking on a whole 'nother level.

More later...

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Mr. Clifton:

There are two OEM brake rotor suppliers to Porsche: Brembo & Zimmerman and the latter ones are the cheap OEM replacements you find.

If I might offer,....the Brembo's are of superior quality and the only ones we will sell to anyone or install here.

The only Zimemrman rotors we use are on the rear of 930's,....

MrClifton

Thank you Steve and all for the clarity.

Edward

Hi Mark,

I don't know whether bedding the OE Textars is "necessary," per se, but I do it because the brakes always feel "weak," not soft, when I come home from the track and put them back on. But when I bed them, all feels ok. My theory is that perhaps I'm scrubbing material from the track pads off the rotor and/or re-mating the surface of the OE pads to the rotor after all that track wear. Sorry I don't have a more definitieve answer, but it works. Take care

Steve,
Good to know. Thanks!

Edward