Foxman

Again, have you replaced the line that feeds into the slave? Not uncommon for this to be the source of blockage. Does the new slave bleed freely?

stubble88

Yes. Line was replaced.

Bleed freely? You mean does fluid just flow out of it without help? Other than loosening the bleed screw?

Is the old fashioned pumping method somghing I should try?

Is it possible that something inside is the culprit? Flywheel. Fork?etc???

OverBoosted28

I don't see a problem with your release fork, or flywheel, as having any connection if it still functions properly, as you stated. Pedal assembly, or one of the previously mentioned items to address. Good luck.

IainM

When you bleed the clutch you have to keep filling the reservoir and don't let the level drop too low or you'll suck air back into the line. The fluid feed point is much higher for the clutch (I guess so a clutch leak won't cause brakes to fail) I had problems bleeding the clutch til I realized this.

Otherwise it's the kinematic lever. Intermittent hanging is the symptom.

Mike J

The brake/clutch fluid reservoir has a divider in it to separate the fluid between the clutch and brakes, that way if the clutch circuit blows, you do not lose your brakes. The size of the reservoir on the clutch side is very small, so bleeding can easily drain it and introduce air. A lot of people pump out the fluid when bleeding and then introduce air, and so on. Its hard to see the level through the side of the reservoir, so my technique is to:

- use pressure bleeding
- fill the reservoir to the absolute top
- only bleed out a very small bit, and do not let the reservoir go down very much
- keep filling the reservoir and bleeding a small bit at a time until happy.

Years ago, I used to introduce air in the clutch circuit until I realized how small the cavity to hold fluid was. I then went for very small bleeds and keep the tank full, and have had no problems introducing air since - and I have done many clutch bleeds since.

Not for the clutch - that master is used to full strokes. :-). Brakes? I would recommend even shorter strokes if you need to do it that way, but pressure bleeding is the only way to go.

The slave is above the transmission, and below the rear hump between the rear seats of the car. The reservoir is higher than the clutch circuit, but the master is below the slave, so the fluid would effectively dip down and up, so it won't bleed that way very effectively.

Cheers,

Mike

ricks993

I had the same problem trying to vacuum bleed the clutch after my rebuild. I then got a pressure bleeder, it made an impossible job possible!!!! Listen to Mike above

Wait until you use it to bleed your brake's !!!!!

Once you go to pressure bleeding you will never go back to vacuum bleeding

JB 911

Mike why not just use the pressure bleeder wet? Then there becomes no "pressure" about sucking in air and you can open the slave until the clean fluid comes thru, np.

OP. if you clutch works at all, maybe try to go drive around a bit and hit some speed bumps, come back, do it again. SOunds like you have air in there somewhere. Don't fret, it's a rite of passage.

vincer77

THIS!

stubble88

Nothing works.
Answer me this: why is the peddle fine when car is off, then when it's running the peddle doesn't return to top? The clutch is also slipping if I gas it while peddle isn't all the way to the top.

OverBoosted28

Further investigation needed. Don't "gas it" when clutch is not working properly! Figure out what problem is, w/o destroying anything. I would imagine any clutch to slip, while partially engaged.

Mike J

I don't use a hand pressure bleeder, I use the shop air with a very good water filter, and a pressure regulator that is dialed way down. Never liked the wet method because of the potential mess, and just using the reservoir has served me very well over the years. You are right though, feeding the fluid in and keeping it full pretty well eliminates any of these sort of problems.

Cheers,

Mike

JB 911

Yeah if the hose blows that's going to be a bad day

I put my motive in a bucket in the frunk to stop it falling over and lay a couple empty trash bags over & under the hose - just in case.

nine9six

Hmm, could this stated symptom be the sign of a dry drive spline, causing the pressure plate to hang on the splined shaft?

Mike J

Totally possible. Usually the clutch just gets heavier and heavier, but I can see this happening too. I did one a while ago, very heavy clutch but it engaged fine and was full stroke. Dropped the tranny, took the clutch apart, all was fine except for what you mentioned - super dry spline. Cleaned it all up, lubed with Porsche grease and the clutch went back to normal, quite light and smooth.

I can also see the behaviour changing slightly when the clutch is rotating, it will change the dynamics, now you have pressure on the clutch fork for instance if the throwout bearing is sticky, which would put sideways thrust and possibly costing sticking. Same goes for the clutch tube, if a ridge has worn (see that), the throwout bearing can be hanging on that ridge when the car is rotating causing the side thrust, but when the engine is off, no side thrust and no sticking.

Unfortunately, the only way to find out is taking it apart. I think if the OP replaced the slave/master, its very likely internal. Its not that big of a deal to drop the transmission with the engine in the car for a good shop with the right equipment (I always do that when doing clutches - never drop the engine, too much overhead and chances of things going wrong).

Cheers,

Mike

stubble88

yep. as soon as i shut the car off the pedal returns to normal.