stubble88

the clutch pedal does not return all the way. But only after I start it. When cold and off its fine. Clutch itself works and Im able to change gears. But I have to bring the pedal back up with my foot.
replaced slave and master cylinders
Bled it many times.
still doesn't return.

anyone have any idea what it could be?
thanks

Vorsicht

Have you done the kinematic lever update?

If not do a search here using those words. It is a common issue.

stubble88

thanks for this
but since it only does it when the car is running it cant be this. Unless im missing something.
My mechanic also so the pelican post and said no.
He is currently doing a gravity bleed on it.

thanks again for the response.

Cemoto

I don't think a gravity bleed will work as the slave is higher than the fluid reservoir. I could be wrong though . . never tried it.

.

Foxman

Did you replace the line that feeds into slave? This is a common problem.

NC TRACKRAT

Do a reverse bleed. Takes two people. Open brake fluid reservoir top. Attach a length of tubing from the slave nipple to the rt. rear brake caliper nipple. Open both nipples. Then slowly press down on the brake pedal. Close both nipples. Allow brake pedal to rise. Repeat the process until your clutch pedal returns to normal.

jscott82

I'd vote kinematic lever..

Engine on or off makes no difference, there is nothing powered in this system.. Its simple hydraulics: two pistons connected by a pipe..

jscott82

As an aside: if you are adventurous, remove the kinematic lever altogether, its secondary to the actual clutch and can easily be eliminated.

With my aftermarket clutch, I needed to improve the responsiveness of the pedal so removed mine and very happy with the results.

I'm very curious if it would be a similar improvement with a stock clutch.

nine9six

I had the same issue. Resolved with an all wheel bleed, and then the clutch slave.

BTW, I used a Motive Power Bleeder to do the job sans the pedal pusher.

When is the last time your brakes/clutch slave, was bled?

stubble88

Replaced slave, master, all recommended levers and parts for the clutch peddle and bled and bled and bled gallons of fluid through it.
Peddle still does not return all the way. And only has a tiny bit of clutch towards the bottom.
Pumping peddle when motor off will start to return peddle to the top. Then when I start it and stops half way back up. No noises. Still works like a clutch should.
Me and mechanic are stumped.
Hes now saying it's got to be inside. Flywheel. Fork blah. Blah.
​​​​​​​

Ed Hughes

Mine took a few tries to get it to bleed right. This is not a kinematic lever issue-that only has the pedal potentially stick an inch or so from the top. My guess is you still have air in there.

bobboinski

If you haven't already, try bleeding the old fashioned way (with someone working the pedal while you open the bleeder). I had the same symptoms you are and this was the only way I could get it bled properly. I think air gets trapped in the clutch master cylinder and only moving the piston seems to get it out.

Ed Hughes

BUT, NEVER do full pedal stokes, or you run the risk of destroying the inside of the MC. Only 1/2 strokes!!!!

bobboinski

Thanks Ed, forgot to mention that.

GwynnieMae

You're saying the clutch pedal works normally with the engine running. Unless your car is a turbo, I don't see how this is possible. The clutch system is completely independent from the engine. It should work the same no matter what the car is doing.
I've had similar clutch return problems as well. I changed the lever too. What really did it for me was lubricating the pedal assembly. Just get some spray lithium grease and get anything that moves. I've been trouble free for several years now.