Cylinder head temperature sensor.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cylinder head temperature sensor.
My 95 gave me a 1114 code yesterday morning during start up. The car didn't start the first time but on the second try it did. I saw the check engine light came on for a few seconds during start up. Checked the code and its 1114 cylinder head temp sensor. Does anyone have a link to a diy? I tried searching and didn't find anything to specific. I also read that Porsche put out a TSB for the connector on the sensor. Anyone know where to find those instructions and parts needed? Thanks a bunch.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bump. Any info is greatly appreciated
#3
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#5
You know the tool you need, the part location, wire routing and plug location...It seems pressing the wire grommet through and into the engine area is the ticket, as opposed to trying to pull it out. I would have lubed the OD and locating flanges of that grommet, to aid pushing or pulling it out, as soon as it gave indication of resistence.
What I've found is if posters call a job a pita, I tend to take more time and try to gain as much acess as possible to suit my tool selection. Its the easier jobs that tend to haunt me.
Good luck...I'll be looking to hear about your progress/success!
Last edited by nine9six; 07-06-2016 at 10:51 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
My experience with the temperature sensor (probably TMI).
I have a Ruf WB BTR (cab) with 15,000 miles. Built by Vinnie Colosino at Gulf Performance and a rocket when I bought it four years ago. The build was done with a crate of parts and instructions from Ruf in Germany. Great power and a semi-neglected 2-owner car when I bought it. The original owner posted on RL, giving detail of the body-work and mechanical conversions.
Shortly after getting the car it developed an intermittent problem that seemed to be fuel-delivery related. I took the car to a very reputable shop and after a month or so and several thousand dollars of time they could only identify the problem as apparently electrical in scope. They couldn’t communicate with the Ruf ECU so the “knowledge” of the problem was limited. I suggested calling Ruf, but egos are at work in any shop it seems. More on this later.
I called Ruf USA, then based in Michigan and they were “certain” they could solve the problem so I ad no choice but to ship the car to them. They had the car for 6 months and the only thing they accomplished in that period was to de-tune the car and drop their Ruf affiliation; and absolutely did not solve the problem. They did not phone Ruf DE, either. I had it shipped back to me after several thousand dollars more labor expense (plus a new Ruf ECU at $3k plus shipping both ways). Needless to say, my confidence in Ruf USA completely disappeared.
As an all-thumbs DIYer, I have little ego, so I communicated with Ruf DE, and talked with a tech who patiently explained that it was possibly a bad temperature sensor. It was that and was replaced at a cost of $140 plus one hour of labor. In short, two prestigious and respected Porsche shops (or so one would think) cost me about $10k and didn’t solve the problem. One phone call lasting about 10 minutes and $230 fixed the intermittent problem, but the detune is still obvious. Next step would be to get Vinnie involved again.
The sensor was the problem.
BTW, the car is really nice in my eyes.
I have a Ruf WB BTR (cab) with 15,000 miles. Built by Vinnie Colosino at Gulf Performance and a rocket when I bought it four years ago. The build was done with a crate of parts and instructions from Ruf in Germany. Great power and a semi-neglected 2-owner car when I bought it. The original owner posted on RL, giving detail of the body-work and mechanical conversions.
Shortly after getting the car it developed an intermittent problem that seemed to be fuel-delivery related. I took the car to a very reputable shop and after a month or so and several thousand dollars of time they could only identify the problem as apparently electrical in scope. They couldn’t communicate with the Ruf ECU so the “knowledge” of the problem was limited. I suggested calling Ruf, but egos are at work in any shop it seems. More on this later.
I called Ruf USA, then based in Michigan and they were “certain” they could solve the problem so I ad no choice but to ship the car to them. They had the car for 6 months and the only thing they accomplished in that period was to de-tune the car and drop their Ruf affiliation; and absolutely did not solve the problem. They did not phone Ruf DE, either. I had it shipped back to me after several thousand dollars more labor expense (plus a new Ruf ECU at $3k plus shipping both ways). Needless to say, my confidence in Ruf USA completely disappeared.
As an all-thumbs DIYer, I have little ego, so I communicated with Ruf DE, and talked with a tech who patiently explained that it was possibly a bad temperature sensor. It was that and was replaced at a cost of $140 plus one hour of labor. In short, two prestigious and respected Porsche shops (or so one would think) cost me about $10k and didn’t solve the problem. One phone call lasting about 10 minutes and $230 fixed the intermittent problem, but the detune is still obvious. Next step would be to get Vinnie involved again.
The sensor was the problem.
BTW, the car is really nice in my eyes.
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#8
Drifting
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I finished the cylinder head temp sensor install. If your plug looks like the one in my first photo then its part # 993.606.013.00. I bought it from Autohaus AZ for $70. Remove the heater blower first before you do anything and gain access to the plug so you can look at what part it is. I believe Porsche has two styles. Put the left side of the car on jack stands and remove driver side rear wheel. Once under the car remove the driver side heater ducting to gain better access to the sensor. Remove the sensor rubber grommet from the engine tin. Then you'll see the sensor and the heat fins of cylinder 3. I made a tool out of a 14mm deep socket with a notch for the wire but could not fit it in. I cut the wire and put a 14mm box wrench on it. Blast it with some WD40 and fit the box wrench in a angle and be careful not to strip the head. Once the sensor is out push the upper rubber grommet out that leads to the engine bay. Push it out toward the engine bay. Another wire goes thru it also (maybe knock sensor I believe). Before running the sensor wire back thru the rubber grommets install the new sensor back on cylinder 3. Its very hard to get the threads started but keep working at it. Feel free to swear away. once on tighten with box wrench. I believe its 10ftlbs but how would one get a torque wrench in there is beyond me. Just hand snug it. Run the wire back thru the grommets and plug it in. Thats pretty much it. My car fired right up and ran very smooth! No check engine light
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