Scissor lift drive over and parking?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Scissor lift drive over and parking?
I'm considering a scissor lift for my garage but would prefer to not sink it in the concrete. We have one of those 'post-tension' slabs from what my neighbors have said, so cutting it is either difficult or costly or a no-go from a permit standpoint.
When not using the lift there's no way to park a 996 or a 993 over the lift without having some 2x12s stacked on either side?
993 is at RS height give or take. 996 turbo is stock height.
The place I called said people with 911s park over them "all the time" but when I asked if they built ramps to add clearance he was stumped.
Let me know...and yes I searched...very few actual drive over measurements with arms removed, etc for when the lift is not being used.
Ultimately...I'd like a 2 post Max Jax thing that I could try to stack 2 cars on one side in.
When not using the lift there's no way to park a 996 or a 993 over the lift without having some 2x12s stacked on either side?
993 is at RS height give or take. 996 turbo is stock height.
The place I called said people with 911s park over them "all the time" but when I asked if they built ramps to add clearance he was stumped.
Let me know...and yes I searched...very few actual drive over measurements with arms removed, etc for when the lift is not being used.
Ultimately...I'd like a 2 post Max Jax thing that I could try to stack 2 cars on one side in.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
George how is driving on and off with the planks? Do you normally have your 993 as the one 'parked' on top of the lift when not in use? Your 993 is stock height or lower? I see you are in Socal, by any chance are you local to me?
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#8
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Hmmmmm. I'm at RS height also, maybe a touch less in front, and use 2. I've been wondering if 1 would do. Guess it's time to try.
With the scissor lift I have (Snap On), I had to cut out a section from the second plank so the arms clear. I put the cut out sections back in place for easy on/off driving.
I didn't lower the lift all the way one time, (couldn't really see it, it looked lowered all the way), and ripped my steering rack boot pulling off
With the scissor lift I have (Snap On), I had to cut out a section from the second plank so the arms clear. I put the cut out sections back in place for easy on/off driving.
I didn't lower the lift all the way one time, (couldn't really see it, it looked lowered all the way), and ripped my steering rack boot pulling off
#9
Rennlist Member
Ramp
Ramp & scissor underneath
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Is that 6 pieces of plywood for your ramp? Looks good and probably easy to get upon.
My issue is my driveway is already sloped. Then add driving up on ramps makes it even harder.
My issue is my driveway is already sloped. Then add driving up on ramps makes it even harder.
#11
i am about 30 min from you. send a pm.
#12
Rennlist Member
#13
Something like that would be the way to go, you could even make the sides wider, a single width 12" means that you have to be very careful lining the car up, double width gives you some additional leeway. Each lift is different, I have a SnapOn, the arms can't be extended w/ more than ~2 3/4" rise, mine barely clear the carpet. My car is so low that that isn't enough so I have to use a double layer of 1/2" plywood which is removable when the car is parked on the 3/4" deck planks, I raised the front an additional 1/2" to get a tad more clearance for the front arms.
I used pressure treated w/ a vapor barrier underneath, the aluminum isn't necessary it's just some scrap leftover from a boat deck, the roller pads and a a similar pad under the lift pivot are highly recommended to prevent digging into the concrete, don't forget a drip tray.
You will also want a variety of lifting pads, the aluminum ones are great as the snap into the stock lifting points, the others are useful for other cars.
I used pressure treated w/ a vapor barrier underneath, the aluminum isn't necessary it's just some scrap leftover from a boat deck, the roller pads and a a similar pad under the lift pivot are highly recommended to prevent digging into the concrete, don't forget a drip tray.
You will also want a variety of lifting pads, the aluminum ones are great as the snap into the stock lifting points, the others are useful for other cars.
#14
Anyone figured out how to do an oil change on a scissor lift? I came to the rather ugly realization that the oil tank drain plug is somewhat inaccessible when using my lift. I use some rubber mats to transition my car onto the lift, just makes it a smoother transition from concrete to lift surface. I got them at Lowes, but I only needed about 1/2 inch elevation to prevent the front splitter on my 987 from scraping.
#15
Rennlist Member
Anyone figured out how to do an oil change on a scissor lift? I came to the rather ugly realization that the oil tank drain plug is somewhat inaccessible when using my lift. I use some rubber mats to transition my car onto the lift, just makes it a smoother transition from concrete to lift surface. I got them at Lowes, but I only needed about 1/2 inch elevation to prevent the front splitter on my 987 from scraping.