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Pricing Help Needed From the Experts (you guys)

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Old 04-03-2016, 10:29 PM
  #31  
RonCT
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Based on the photos I don't believe there is any wear on the seats. Heavy grain looks that way to a camera. Mine look the same and have zero wear.

Other concerns remain, but odometer fraud is a very serious matter. I've seen many older cars that had little to no CarFax data.
Old 04-03-2016, 10:47 PM
  #32  
The Brewmeister
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Lighting in the interior photos really accentuates any imperfections in the leather. They probably look better in person. The right under chin panel appears to be misaligned.
Old 04-03-2016, 10:57 PM
  #33  
Mark in Baltimore
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Car has been for sale for a while:

http://www.luxsport.com/1996-porsche...t_inventory=1&
Old 04-04-2016, 07:32 AM
  #34  
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Better photos and now I agree - something is odd about the driver's seat. Mine are perfectly matched and yet depending on the angle of the photo they look "worn". In my example it's just the flash / lighting on the deeper grooves of the natural leather. In photos of my car if you take one of the driver's side it looks worn but the passenger perfect. Then a photo of the passenger side shows that one worn and the driver's perfect. This black-on-black is much more pronounced.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:06 AM
  #35  
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Don't want to make too emphatic a point here, what with the free market and all, but at 72k for a NB, I expect everything to be perfect, and for it to come with eternal sunshine and green lights just in time factory options. I would investigate the heck out of this car, especially the stated odometer mileage. Even a small discrepancy would justify a much lower price. A good mechanic should be able to tell you if this is indeed an 18k car.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:10 AM
  #36  
zirrah
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Originally Posted by fatmike
Do a google search on Lux Sport and form your own opinion. There is a lot out there.

The difference in the condition of the driver and passenger seat in the same photo (4th photo) is difficult to explain.

/
Not really. Think about it. No one has sat in the passengers seat. My last car was like that, the previous owner literally never had anyone in the passenger seat or back seats (BMW 335i). The drivers seat showed a bunch of wear, passenger seat looked brand new.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:37 AM
  #37  
dlb
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You guys know your stuff! Let me ask you all this - with 70k as a max budget, what car should I be looking at? Can I get a good C2S for that? Wide body (which ones are wide bodies?)

I have some proper concerns about this car now that I have been educated and I will be looking into them in detail.

Any advice on 'ideal scenario car' for the money would be much appreciated.

Any other feedback on this car also cool.
Old 04-04-2016, 11:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dlb
with 70k as a max budget, what car should I be looking at? Can I get a good C2S for that? Wide body (which ones are wide bodies?) Any advice on 'ideal scenario car' for the money would be much appreciated.
1. Keep 10% of your budget in "reserves;" so look to spend low to mid $60's
2. Buy the best condition example your budget allows
3. C2/C4 6MT @$60-62k should be a low to mid mileage example with all/mostly original paint, no accidents, detailed service records, nicely optioned. Bonus for sport seats and upgraded suspension.
4. C4S/C2S @$64-66k should be a 60-80k mileage example with no major stories. Bonus would be top end and suspension.
5. For all examples, the more documentation the better; private party should net you best "value;" good PPI and personal inspection and/or rennfax.
Note: All these cars need refreshed suspension as factory outsourced to Monroe/ Boge and regardless of mileage are shot. Cars you see such as the one from Luxsport that are riding at USA height typically have not been refreshed; total cost to do so from shop ranges from $2,500 - $5,000.
Old 04-04-2016, 11:26 AM
  #39  
pp000830
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Dealers get comp pricing from competitive dealers to price cars in their geography. Seeing that dealer shipping of a used car is +/- $500 any regional price spread should be rather small. Buying from a private person will sell at 80% to 100% of a dealer price as any lower makes whosale auctioning the car off seem more attractive. Lots of variables beyond this. Blue book, and Car Trader derive their income from subscribed dealers so I would assume their data is adjusted to make the split between wholesale and retail as large as possible while still seeming credible. Very low mile examples probably Trump any rational pricing system because there are simply too few in the market to base pricing on.
Just some thoughts,
Andy
Old 04-04-2016, 02:40 PM
  #40  
johnireland
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The price, even if the car was perfect, is way way too high. It is a 20 year old car and with those absurdly low miles that means 20 years of stuff that needs work. The entire suspension is probably turned into petrified wood. Once you start driving the bushings are going to fall apart, the shocks will start to leak, etc. Gaskets seals are dry from lack of use...they have become brittle with age and when you start driving and they get wet again, they can start to crumble and leak. Electrical components may have built up corrosion over time and can show resistance when they start to get used. Window regulators, the sunroof motor and cables, the mirror motors, the struts that hold up the frunk and the engine hood will likely begin to fail (especially if original) and they have not been used often. The alternator and starter motor (if original) could also fail if they suddenly experience a lot more exercise than they are used to over the last 20 years. Oh yes, don't forget the wheel bearings. Like old tires, they can develop flat spots. This is a car for someone who wants to park it and look at it for a year or so, and then hope to flip it for a small profit. Find a car that has been well driven and well maintained and for under $50k...maybe closer to $45k.
Old 04-04-2016, 04:53 PM
  #41  
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johnireland - Appreciate those insights. I plan to keep on hunting. Many thanks
Old 04-04-2016, 05:32 PM
  #42  
dlb
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Found this C2S - Maybe a little top heavy, but seems to tick many of the boxes brought up by you guys. Thoughts -

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...25886449&Log=0
Old 04-04-2016, 06:06 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by dlb
Found this C2S - Maybe a little top heavy, but seems to tick many of the boxes brought up by you guys. Thoughts -

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...25886449&Log=0
Not sure what you mean by "top heavy?" Wilhoit is a well known re-seller. He doesn't offer value but rather convenience. That being said, a C2S with 39k miles for $80k tells me he "forgot" to check the "it's been in an accident" or other major story box. Otherwise it would be offered for $100k. He has NB coupes with same mileage for similar or higher prices. He's not my cup of tea but hey...if you're looking for your dream "African Queen," he'll sell you that too! http://www.willhoitenterprises.com/AfricanQueen.html
Old 04-04-2016, 06:27 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dlb
Found this C2S - Maybe a little top heavy, but seems to tick many of the boxes brought up by you guys. Thoughts -

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...25886449&Log=0
His web site has not changed for the last 60 days. I talked to him about a month ago and he only had one 993 and that was a TT.
Old 04-04-2016, 06:31 PM
  #45  
six gun
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Originally Posted by johnireland
The price, even if the car was perfect, is way way too high. It is a 20 year old car and with those absurdly low miles that means 20 years of stuff that needs work. The entire suspension is probably turned into petrified wood. Once you start driving the bushings are going to fall apart, the shocks will start to leak, etc. Gaskets seals are dry from lack of use...they have become brittle with age and when you start driving and they get wet again, they can start to crumble and leak. Electrical components may have built up corrosion over time and can show resistance when they start to get used. Window regulators, the sunroof motor and cables, the mirror motors, the struts that hold up the frunk and the engine hood will likely begin to fail (especially if original) and they have not been used often. The alternator and starter motor (if original) could also fail if they suddenly experience a lot more exercise than they are used to over the last 20 years. Oh yes, don't forget the wheel bearings. Like old tires, they can develop flat spots. This is a car for someone who wants to park it and look at it for a year or so, and then hope to flip it for a small profit. Find a car that has been well driven and well maintained and for under $50k...maybe closer to $45k.
You paint a very drab picture of a low mileage car, I trust that you have seen this car, if not you do a dis-service any one that has a low mileage car and maintains properly.


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