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If all is as should be as described above, then you need to program your remote to the immobilizer. How you will do this without the immobilizer code is beyond me; unless the origin of the immobilizer has the VIN to the car it came from, or the code/code card itself.
If the VIN of the origin car is available, a Porsche dealer can retrieve the code from their VIN database...Most dealers insist on proof of ownership of the VIN (reg or pink slip)
Maybe the dealer can hook their diagnostic software to the car or immobilizer and retrieve the code; otherwise I sense a conundrum!
Are you sure that immobilizer was a working unit when you bought it? It's strange that the immo light in the clock is not coming on for the bulb test when the ignition is turned on.
IIRC, the immo on the '96 cannot be disabled in the ECU. Check with Steve Weiner at Rennsport who can provide the definite answer.
I also cleared the airbag faults so now the airbag light is turned off.
I'm trying to contact the seller of the immo box and se what he says.
Should I send my Motronic and get the Drivelock and immo removed, 595$?
On the same circuit as the immobilizer light in the clock, are the inside lights, glove box light, frunk light, engine bay light, and the micro switches (MS); door, clutch, frunk, and engine bay.
In the event of a ground fault due to chaffing of wires to lights or MS, because they are on the same circuit, will cause the immobilizer light in the clock to non-function. Ask me how I know Thats the bad news...
The good news is, if the immobilizer is functioning properly; light or no light on the clock, the car will start and drive as expected. This is firsthand experience
...my next quest is to see if I have the right Alarm module 928.618.260.00
Im thinking its for an older model, without immo, could that be the case?
I'm thinking no...I believe both the alarm and immobilizer communicate with the ECU separatly and not in a daisy chain. I do however, believe the alarm module (ACM) communicates with the immobilizer module (ICM).
Rennlister Lorenfb, would know for sure. Might want to PM and link him to your post.
Checking all the interior lamps or more lack of, I tested to bridge the starter relay R61.
The starter cranked!
After measuring I only get about 5 volts to the relay feeder, so something is faulty somewhere.
I did not have any gas in the car (and no oil) so I have to wait until tomorrow to see if it starts...
I did put the battery for an overnight charge, and hoping for the night Gods to do their thing.
Cheers
Mike
PS i upgraded my account to full member, had forgot to do that, I really indulge other to do so .... DS
If all is as should be as described above, then you need to program your remote to the immobilizer. How you will do this without the immobilizer code is beyond me; unless the origin of the immobilizer has the VIN to the car it came from, or the code/code card itself.
If the VIN of the origin car is available, a Porsche dealer can retrieve the code from their VIN database...Most dealers insist on proof of ownership of the VIN (reg or pink slip)
Maybe the dealer can hook their diagnostic software to the car or immobilizer and retrieve the code; otherwise I sense a conundrum!
The OP mentioned that he had gotten the ECU with the immobilizer. If so, the VIN number from the donor car should be on the ECU nameplate. Take that number to the dealer for programming of the remotes.
For a reasonable fee they will bench test and repair or by-pass with an overlay chip the drive block and alarm/DME
Send them all 3 control units and your remotes and they will replace leaking capacitors, common issue mine had and if you like also by pass the drive block.
it works as stock, full alarm function and remote locking, just no drive block
Its fully reversible if you want to return to stock later.
They even supplied the R61 starter bridge for the relay box and great instructions..
03-25-2016, 02:11 PM
Again Drivelock and Immobolizer questions....
Thats the bad news...
