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Again Drivelock and Immobolizer questions....

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Old 03-27-2016 | 09:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mitche
I will call this tuesday.


For now, I'm looking into why I only get about 5V to the starter relay - when turning key to position 3.


Does anyone got some high resolution diagrams of the 993 Sheet 5, with the starter relay and so forth?





Mike
Mike,
PM me your email address and I will send you sheet 5. Cant post it here due to size.
Paul
Old 03-28-2016 | 09:29 AM
  #17  
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Default PM sent!

If the diod in the door is acting "normal" and the doors are locking/unlocking as they should.

Can I rule out fob/immo issues then?

I think it is a minor fault somewhere in the startup procedure, for instance door open, latch open or something like that.

What is the start procedure? Can the car start even with the ! sign in dash and console?

mike
Old 03-28-2016 | 03:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by earossi
The OP mentioned that he had gotten the ECU with the immobilizer. If so, the VIN number from the donor car should be on the ECU nameplate. Take that number to the dealer for programming of the remotes.
Durametric can also read out the vin from the OBD connector.

Silly question, is the relay known to be good?? Pop the cover off it to check for failed solder connections.
Old 03-29-2016 | 02:51 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by pp000830
Durametric can also read out the vin from the OBD connector.

Silly question, is the relay known to be good?? Pop the cover off it to check for failed solder connections.

When measuring, I dont get the correct voltage - so I dont think its the relay.
However I just ordered 2 new ones....

Thanks for the input!

mike
Old 05-13-2016 | 07:24 AM
  #20  
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Default latest development....

Bought a new immobilizer from Specialized ECU Repair.

Immo light now works and the engine cranks!

Wonderful, however the engine wont start, something is wrong with the DME relay.
When I do a 3 connection split and bridge 30, 87 and 87B the fuelpump is kickin and I have fuel pressure.
Fuse 26 is OK.

But no spark.

Any ideas?

One more thing, it sounds very much in the return line, sounds like a "hissing" sound....

Cheers
Mike
Old 05-13-2016 | 10:34 AM
  #21  
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Default Problem solved...

OK, here it goes!

Problem nr 1, nothing happened when turning key:
Car came with wrong immobilizer unit.

Problem nr 2:
Car wouldnt start, no spark and I thought DME relay was faulty.

Turned out to be the crank position sensor. That was having a bad connector.

Found this:
First question: 1. Does your new fuel pump turn on under cranking? If so, it is likely the DME computer is working. The computer actually triggers the fuel pump (via stage two of the DME relay) under cranking once it sees motion from the crank position sensor.

Thanks for all the input!!

cheers
Mike
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Old 05-13-2016 | 11:15 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by spdklz
Call ECU specialists

800-328-1425

For a reasonable fee they will bench test and repair or by-pass with an overlay chip the drive block and alarm/DME

Send them all 3 control units and your remotes and they will replace leaking capacitors, common issue mine had and if you like also by pass the drive block.

it works as stock, full alarm function and remote locking, just no drive block

Its fully reversible if you want to return to stock later.
They even supplied the R61 starter bridge for the relay box and great instructions..

www.ecudoctors.com

Good Luck and Best Regards, Dustin in Las Vegas
Very nice looking garage, wish mine was like that



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