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Replacing Front Shaft Seal on C2 transmission

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Old 02-21-2016, 09:57 AM
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ricks993
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Default Replacing Front Shaft Seal on C2 transmission

I am having a hard time removing the front seal on trans shaft. With the shaft in the way I cannot get close enough to drill a straight hole to tread in a screw. Managed to get one in but it just pulled out. Now that I have destroyed the old seal, anyone have any suggestions on getting it out???

Not sure what to try next, I am ready to open up the trans to remove the seal. Anyone have experience opening up the trans. Will that give me the ability to remove the front seal?? How hard of a job is opening up the trans
Old 02-21-2016, 12:38 PM
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911F1
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Are you talking about #3 on this page ?
http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...html#goldenrod

http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/993/993_gss.html

If so follow these instructions. I just replaced mine when
I did the golden rod upgrade. It's pressed in pretty tight but it'll
Come out. A good set of pliers really helps. Make sure to tape up the shaft good.
So you don't scratch it up. You can push the shaft in to get more clearance.
These are the pliers I used. Excellent German made tool. The grip on the head is amazing.

Knipex 002007US1 3-Piece Alligator Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch) - - Amazon.com Knipex 002007US1 3-Piece Alligator Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch) - - Amazon.com

Good luck
Old 02-21-2016, 06:43 PM
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ricks993
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No its the other end of the trans shaft seal that engages the clutch & flywheel. It looks like if I pull the axel mounts and remove the gear box the front of the trans housing will come off allowing me to remove the seal from the back side. I am just afraid of opening up the trans and not be able to get it back together
Old 02-21-2016, 06:47 PM
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ricks993
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It is part number 21 on page 97 of the US Parts Katalog
Old 02-21-2016, 06:52 PM
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Part # 6 on page 302 of Service manual
Old 02-21-2016, 08:01 PM
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Garth S
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Opening up the trans to pull an input shaft seal is .... well ..... a bit like a surgeon going in through that sphincter one sits on to attack some belly button fluff: excessively complex, high degree of difficulty, uncertain outcome on closing, high cost, ....

It is a lot easier to either get Xlong drill bits or a bit extension to allow the TWO pilot holes to be drilled - I recall we had this discussion in a prior thread: then, with two attachment points, one can 'walk' the seal out using the sheet metal screw tool previously noted ( if only one hole was drilled, as inferred, it is difficult to move a seal - use 2 @ 180 deg apart).

An alternative that works if great care is used to not contact either the shaft or machined well of the case is to use a flat blade ( long) screwdriver to catch the outer edge of the seals 'tin can' .... and with a hammer, drive the tin inwards at an angle. This effectively reduces the OD of the seal - and its grip on the case.
The seal can then be fished out with any number of tools.

Sorry to see you having difficulty - but that's nothing compared to opening the trans ...
Old 02-21-2016, 08:54 PM
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ricks993
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If I cannot pull out with screws, using the walking out method, and try the screwdriver. Is there a stop on the back of the seal? So if I drive a flat screwdriver the seal cannot push back into the trans???
Old 02-22-2016, 09:22 AM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by ricks993
If I cannot pull out with screws, using the walking out method, and try the screwdriver. Is there a stop on the back of the seal? So if I drive a flat screwdriver the seal cannot push back into the trans???
Yes, (effectively) all seals sit in a machined well, with the bottom of the well having a lip equal to the width of the seals metal casing .... once you pull this seal, you may better appreciate this .... as one unintended benefit is to keep us from doing something really dumb, like driving a seal into the trans innards

To jump ahead, when it comes to reinstalling a fresh seal, google/youtube some info ... it is imperative to
a) install the inner contact lip edge facing inwards
b)lightly lube this lip and the input shaft to protect the finely shaped edge on installation
c)cut a piece of PVC pipe or equivalent to slide over the input shaft, with its OD capturing the seal tin OD - this is the seal installation tool.

d) keeping it perfectly square ( 90 deg to input shaft), lightly tap the seal into place - to the bottom of the 'well' - or flush with the case .... for most seals, flush with the case works.

I added the latter so it may be better appreciated that the seal is an interference fit into the case, with a rim width of 6-8mm - it has to be pulled out just as straight/well aligned as it goes in.
Old 02-22-2016, 10:17 PM
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Thanks for the info, I will give it a try. Hope I can remove, even if it is piece by piece!!!



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