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Fixed my cabrio top today, I realized after the purchase of the car that the top was only opening/closing with one of the two cabrio top transmissions. The driver's side was disconnected. Lucked out, the cable wasn't the problem, it would seem that whoever put on the new top didn't align the top properly and the driver's side transmission had run past the end of the gear. Opened up the transmission, reoriented the gear, and aligned the top and all is good.
Thankfully nothing was broken and I able get it all done in less than an hour.
Next project will be the CCU.
Ohh, I also installed new drain plugs in the frunk today.
Last Friday I got up at 5AM and went to visit a friend who lives outside the tiny town La Farge, WI which is in the beautiful, hilly driftless region of Southwest Wisconsin. Amazing roads!-curvy, challenging, lightly trafficked...and absolutely filthy. I was back home 13 hours after leaving, with more than 600 miles added to the odometer. I immediately dropped it off for a previously scheduled, and desperately overdue, paint correction.
Zoom in to more fully appreciate what 13 hours of abject depravity does to a car. It was so much fun!. I’m not sorry.
Here’s what the damaged paint looked like after being washed and clayed. The paint has needed help since I acquired the 993 in 2017, but I had reasons to wait. We moved into our “new” circa 1941 house less than a year ago. One of the three huge projects we’ve accomplished so far was to tear off the tiny, collapsing attached garage and replace it with a much bigger detached three car version. While that was happening my car has been sitting outside for almost a year (except winter storage) but it finally has a home...so it was time to give the exterior some attention.
How it looks now. Still has rock chips and blemishes commiserate with 130,000+ miles. But now exterior correctly reflects a used and loved 993 rather than one that’s been neglected. Now to get it dirty again!
PPI's can't really diagnose worn valve guides, which is probably what the problem is. You got around 60K-80K miles, no top end rebuild in the car's history?
Back in 2005 Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems (RL Technical Advisor) posted......
.....the side-wiggle test is subjective and its requires someone with extensive experience to make a judgement about how much sideplay is OK and what constitutes too much. Fortunately or unfortunately, this is the only way I know of to make an assessment of valve guide wear aside from taking everything apart and measuring guide-to-stem clearances.
For me, the side-wiggle test has proven to be accurate in making a judgement about whether the guides need replacement but I've been doing this a LONG time,....
Like many other endeavors, a minimum level of competance is required for ANY PPI to be useful and valuable.
I started changing pads and rotors. New Zimmerman CoatZ rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads - hopefully a good deal less dusty than OE. Also hopefully better than the Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads I had on there. I tried to convince Akebono to manufacture sets for the 993, but I was unsuccessful in doing so. That is a pity because I am a big fan of Akebono ceramic pads for street driven cars where driving stresses are relatively more gentle.
I also cut a slot on the retaining tab on the front strut so that I could remove the front calipers without opening the brake lines at the point where the soft lines run into the hard lines.
I put anti-seize on the rotor set screws. I also re-used the caliper bolts and used blue thread locker. I read somewhere here that Porsche recommends replacing the caliper bolts not because they stretch, but because they come from the factory with threadlocker.
I finished the driver’s side when I realized that I only ordered HALF the required number of anti-squeal spiders! 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ The passenger’s side will have to wait for another day.
when you paint calipers, do you need to completely remove them, and re-bleed the brakes?
To do it right, yes. I would hate to see someone spray painting calipers while still on the car. Remove them, clean them properly, tape up the threads, take them to a media blaster and get them cleaned and powder coated. Bleeding them is not difficult when reinstalling. Bleeding them is probably the easiest part of the whole process.
when you paint calipers, do you need to completely remove them, and re-bleed the brakes?
If you spray you should. I used a brush and was very careful in how it was applied. Takes longer but eliminates the hassle of bleeding etc. If you are redoing the brakes in any case, it is a lot easier off the car.
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